Build What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My co-pilot had the idea of doing a time-lapse while I was driving.

Our Four Peaks excursion in a time-lapse #1:


Our Four Peaks excursion in a time-lapse #2:



Zona
 
Consider using the Cardone brand CV joints as another alternative to the factory Toyota parts. They work very well, good quality and reasonably priced.

Curious are these really better then other brands out there. Downside is it seems you have to order online and wait. Not that big a issue. Four registered and insured vehicles for two licensed driver's (really didn't need another vehicle). Rebuilt won't be a option with Cardone since I don't want to deal with shipping a core back. The one place I priced rebuilt the core was $120. New the price ranged from $50 to $135 which seems strange. I also haven't seen a lifetime warranty. If I do order online I do have new oil leak I need to locate and fix which will give me something to work on now that it's warming up.

Edit: pulled the skid plates off and did some checking. Front diff is soaked. Possible leaking gasket or cracked housing? Some oil on the oil pan but not leaking from the drain. Checked the oil level and maybe a little low. I guess I could pull the fill plug on the diff. Or.......









































I could reach up and tighten the spin-on oil filter that came loose.:bang: Can't blame the PO I changed the oil last. I have never had one do this before. I can only think of a few times I've paid someone to change oil, the rest of the time I've always done it. Never had one come loose so I really didn't spin it on the that hard with how hard it is to get to. Did had to drive a screwdriver thru a few to use as a handle to get them loose. Oh well,:meh: rarely do I have such easy fixes. Biggest part of the job with be cleaning up the oil. There is no other leaks so worth cleaning up. That is something I'm not use to on a my FJ40s. Since the skid plates are already off I leave off until the CV axle is replaced. Normally I would keep the side I'm working higher to prevent oil from leaking from the diff but already purchased synthetic oil for both diffs and transfer case I'll just drain the diff first.
 
Last edited:
Consider using the Cardone brand CV joints as another alternative to the factory Toyota parts. They work very well, good quality and reasonably priced.

Okay I bought one off eBay for $50 with free shipping. Only one year warranty but I'll give it a shot. Still need to purchase a spare to carry along. For that I want one with life time warranty because hopefully I won't need to replace one that quick. While I wait for the part to arrive I have few maintenance items I can work on as well as some interior projects. Maybe not a LC but hey it a Toyota with a transfer case.
 
Okay I bought one off eBay for $50 with free shipping. Only one year warranty but I'll give it a shot. Still need to purchase a spare to carry along. For that I want one with life time warranty because hopefully I won't need to replace one that quick. While I wait for the part to arrive I have few maintenance items I can work on as well as some interior projects. Maybe not a LC but hey it a Toyota with a transfer case.
They used to have a lifetime warranty but I haven't needed to buy one in a long time. They should fit the bill and last a long time. I wouldn't hesitate to use them.
 
My co-pilot had the idea of doing a time-lapse while I was driving.

Our Four Peaks excursion in a time-lapse #1:


Our Four Peaks excursion in a time-lapse #2:



Zona


we had lunch just before you got to the FJ Cruiser - a day earlier, though, with more snow :doh:
 
FWIW my 80 series birf broke in reverse. I prefer to pull forward more for the safety factor.

Question is the birfield the same passenger's and driver's and only the inner axles are different? If so it would have to be how they wear that would cause it to be weaker in reverse.:meh: But wear inside should be the way the force is applied the most, forward.:hmm:
 
Question is the birfield the same passenger's and driver's and only the inner axles are different? If so it would have to be how they wear that would cause it to be weaker in reverse.:meh: But wear inside should be the way the force is applied the most, forward.:hmm:

L & R the same truck only had ~90k when broke. I dont think wear was a factor.

MVC-628F.webp


MVC-623F.webp
 
CV axle was just dropped of by FedEx. Looks good, included seals, C clip, nut and washer.:bounce2: Link said most likely have to pull those off the old one. The link also said Checker (O'Reilly's) was the only place he could find he find the 35MM socket. They didn't have it nor did Auto Zone. Both around $25 and needed to order it. Pep Boys showed a non impact socket for $20 but didn't check availability. Napa showed a impact axle socket for $15, called and had one delivered to my local Napa in a couple hours.:bounce: Looked to do it today until my youngest daughter called and needed a babysitter. Maybe tomorrow.:meh:
 
Question is the birfield the same passenger's and driver's and only the inner axles are different? If so it would have to be how they wear that would cause it to be weaker in reverse.:meh: But wear inside should be the way the force is applied the most, forward.:hmm:

Quality of the steel used - e.g., mild versus hardened steel, impurities in the pour, alloy type, etc. - all make for a huge difference in strength, and has nothing to do with wear. If brand X has a history of breaking and brand y doesn't, there is probably a good reason to suspect the metal used.
 
Quality of the steel used - e.g., mild versus hardened steel, impurities in the pour, alloy type, etc. - all make for a huge difference in strength, and has nothing to do with wear. If brand X has a history of breaking and brand y doesn't, there is probably a good reason to suspect the metal used.

I realize OEM would probably be best. From this thread Cardone was recommended as a good option. The one I got was a new Cardone not just the cheapest I could find. I've only seen reman. and new Cardone. 66 in the first two digits of the part number meant new, 60 meant reman., last four digits were the same for both. The one I got has the same part number as the most expensive one. It was the site that was most expensive that I got the part number for my search. If there are different quality with the same part of the or seller did a switch I could be screwed. The seller on eBay has over three thousand feedbacks and over 99% positive.:meh:
 
Last edited:
I did find the way the star of the birfield broke interesting. Not sure I would say this is 100% failure from backing. To me it was either a part that already had stress fractures and the reverse force caused it to snap or there was a fault in the casing that made it weaker in one direction. In that case it would have failed going forward if on the other side. The cone failures I believe are more related to turning. On a sharp turn the ball bearings move closer to the edge of the cone which is weakest spot. The star shouldn't be effected by turns.
 
:hmm: completely different breaks than on my birf in Moab (coarse spline 40 outer) - where the ring broke, and the outer bell cracked in the groves, but the star stayed intact - thanks for helping wrenching on that :cheers:

A fun day for all for sure

claudia birf.webp
 
The 80 's bell is much bigger and stronger then 40's, 60's and minis

Without a doubt but it also a heavier vehicle and the bell is still the weakest link except for the smaller reverse cut diff in the front axle while backing up.

Maybe sometime during the summer when your camping up north we can get together, have few beers and talk LCs around the campfire. I always enjoying have good debate around the campfire. I just couldn't imagine how boring life would be everybody had the same opinion all the time.:cheers:

A fun day for all for sure

View attachment 1015018

I remember that picture, that was when she was driving her 40 to Moab. Have a feeling the LX will be the 4X4 of choice now. I hope to get a Fj40 to Moab one of these years but that will be trailered up while I ride in comfort.:) It will also make it easier to get the pieces back to AZ.:rolleyes:
 
Back
Top Bottom