What did you do on your 70 series today? (25 Viewers)

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Finally got the dash reinstalled after having the heater core fixed. As usual, took 3 times longer than expected. Been sick as a dog, and working in the dark and the rain has made it hard to stay motivated. A few detours were made along the way to repair cracked trim pieces, as well as un-seize all of the HVAC cables and heater valve.

Definitely one of the less fun jobs I've done, but stoked to have heating for the winter! Careful fastener management and lots of photos are the key to making this job painless. I'll make a guide when I have time.

Next up, rewiring the radio and regassing the AC!
 
How do you like them?
Love them!

IMG_9222.jpeg
 
Moved the axle forward an inch today. Now there’s tons of room for fun activities like reinstalling my mudflaps. View attachment 3656678
Very nice! I will be doing the same when I install my new suspension. How did you deal with the exhaust on the right side when you installed your sliders?
 
I had to cut out the resonator and use flex pipe…

View attachment 3656708

Great, thanks for the pic!
The sliders on my passenger side were fitted with arched support outriggers to accommodate for the resonator and muffler, however I do need to enlarge the arches to allow for the exhaust system to be supported by the rubber hangers without touching the slider outriggers.
It currently does, and resonate through the chassis and body, which makes the ride very loud.
On my to do list.
 
I did something similar. After a couple years or so your exhaust will get louder and smoke smell in the truck because that flex pipe has rusted. I've replaced mine twice now.
Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?
 
Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?
Do you really mean 'inside', or 'on the inner side'.
Really inside is imho rather not possible: How would you enter into the frame rail without cutting into it and weaken its structural integrity? How would you get any tubing into the frame rail? It has brackets stuff welded in, also the cross members stick in it ...
 
Do you really mean 'inside', or 'on the inner side'.
Really inside is imho rather not possible: How would you enter into the frame rail without cutting into it and weaken its structural integrity? How would you get any tubing into the frame rail? It has brackets stuff welded in, also the cross members stick in it ...
Yes, inner side.
 
Is it possible to Route the exhaust inside the frame rail?
I have a BJ73. I thought about doing that, but the pipe would interfere with the wire and plug going into the tranny I think(for backup light). I could have done away with that and it would be OK just no automatic backup lights. or perhaps cut the big plastic plug and come up with a low profile connection using individual wire conectors and then maybe a curved piece of 1/2" soft copper tube as a heat shield and to hold the wire up/out of the way/off the exhaust. Having fuel lines in close proximity to the exhaust can be problematic especially if they are rubber and your vehicle is gasoline fueled. Gasoline vehicle without in tank fuel pump and fuel lines too close to hot exhaust is the recipe for vapor lock. Perhaps you could wrap the exhaust with some insulating header wrap at that point and it would probably be OK. ...............I lucked into about 6 x6' pieces of flex so I just used it because I had it.....................I have very strong, but low profile rock sliders I made that are welded to the frame with bracing at angles for triangulization effect. When it comes time to do major rust repair I'm going to predrill some 2" X 3/16" bar stock at uniform interval then cut and weld it to my bracing so the bolt holes are exposed with 4 holes in each brace. I will then cut them with a sawzall with 2 holes either side of the cut. later to reinstall I will bolt back on by sistering another plate against those I cut. ..Another option to pursue is to make your passenger side slider a 2 piece slider with only the front part bolt on for exhaust fitment.........If good function looks good in your eyes then it will look good to you and those who know. If you have sliders and all just for looks and not function then it doesn't matter if they are strong(welded to the frame), weak bolt on, or oversize (to be strong)bolt on.
 
I have a BJ73. I thought about doing that, but the pipe would interfere with the wire and plug going into the tranny I think(for backup light). I could have done away with that and it would be OK just no automatic backup lights. or perhaps cut the big plastic plug and come up with a low profile connection using individual wire conectors and then maybe a curved piece of 1/2" soft copper tube as a heat shield and to hold the wire up/out of the way/off the exhaust. Having fuel lines in close proximity to the exhaust can be problematic especially if they are rubber and your vehicle is gasoline fueled. Gasoline vehicle without in tank fuel pump and fuel lines too close to hot exhaust is the recipe for vapor lock. Perhaps you could wrap the exhaust with some insulating header wrap at that point and it would probably be OK. ...............I lucked into about 6 x6' pieces of flex so I just used it because I had it.....................I have very strong, but low profile rock sliders I made that are welded to the frame with bracing at angles for triangulization effect. When it comes time to do major rust repair I'm going to predrill some 2" X 3/16" bar stock at uniform interval then cut and weld it to my bracing so the bolt holes are exposed with 4 holes in each brace. I will then cut them with a sawzall with 2 holes either side of the cut. later to reinstall I will bolt back on by sistering another plate against those I cut. ..Another option to pursue is to make your passenger side slider a 2 piece slider with only the front part bolt on for exhaust fitment.........If good function looks good in your eyes then it will look good to you and those who know. If you have sliders and all just for looks and not function then it doesn't matter if they are strong(welded to the frame), weak bolt on, or oversize (to be strong)bolt on.
They would need to be functional for my purposes. It looks like I could route the exhaust to the inside of the frame rails if I converted my vacuum shift transfer case to manual. But then I would need to deal with the downpipe from the exhaust header, I guess have one custom-made? Just curious if anyone has done that themselves
 
They would need to be functional for my purposes. It looks like I could route the exhaust to the inside of the frame rails if I converted my vacuum shift transfer case to manual. But then I would need to deal with the downpipe from the exhaust header, I guess have one custom-made? Just curious if anyone has done that themselves
Heat will be building up around your trans and tcase and probably transfer in to the cab more . I have done it in the past with 7x models that where offroad only . There isn’t much space there
 
Heat will be building up around your trans and tcase and probably transfer in to the cab more . I have done it in the past with 7x models that where offroad only . There isn’t much space there
Makes sense. Thanks for your input. Looks like it'll be some sot of 'pass through ' slider mount
 

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