Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
How long till you can play with a 1vd? I suspect your tune may change slightly once your able to
What did you do on your 70 series today? (27 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Terribly hot day today... took most of the kids to the waterside 15mins away for a few hours after work....
It was over a hundred in the sun, almost a 100 in the shade... sheesh!
It was over a hundred in the sun, almost a 100 in the shade... sheesh!
The exhaust note alone would make the 1VD very desirable.How long till you can play with a 1vd? I suspect your tune may change slightly once your able to
What a glorious sound.
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77 now has a new H55F, xfer is rebuilt, new clutch, throwout bearing, clutch bearing, rear engine seal and xfer breather has been replaced and relocated to a higher location in engine bay.
Both are filled with 75/90 royal purple which has a friction modifier and is safe for yellow metals.
Its sooooo nice to be able to downshift from 4 to 3 again.
Both are filled with 75/90 royal purple which has a friction modifier and is safe for yellow metals.
Its sooooo nice to be able to downshift from 4 to 3 again.
Recently learned toy1hd and yanmar 6lp are the same engine. Opens things up a bit.
wanna go halvsies? me neither
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Yeah 6lps aren't cheap. I thought briefly about finding a mechanical IP from a 6lp would be a neat swap to a 1hdfte from JDM, but they're expensive. I think a mechanical IP salvaged from a locked up yanmar from someone's swamped boat could be a good find. IP is full of fuel so likely still ok even if boat sinks for a couple days.wanna go halvsies? me neither
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i remember seeing 6LP engines just a year or two ago that were pretty reasonable, but today i cant anytbhing less thatn 10k
Damn.....was gonna pull my injectors to test and almost certainly have them rebuilt while out.....then looked at prices of factory new 1HZ injectors from the A company and ordered a set of 6 instead.
New injectors right now are almost 25% less to buy than it costs for rebuilt.....and I get to keep my originals and have them rebuilt for a future planned project
New injectors right now are almost 25% less to buy than it costs for rebuilt.....and I get to keep my originals and have them rebuilt for a future planned project
(they still need to be calibrated) so still a bit more to pay..
Was not aware.....thank you for letting me know....will plan appropriately to have my injector folks look at them.
I dont recall seeing mention of that in the 1HZ manual but need to re-read again
Following.
Injector housings hold the nozzle and pintle which is kept under tension by a spring with a multitude of sized shims. The injector opens and closes at a set pressure which governs your fuel.
A calibrated pop tester which diesel specialist use, can measure when your nozzle opens and closes, how it closes without dribbling /leaking and spray pattern can be observed.
You can buy elcheapo pop testers, but they are not always reliable and if you don't use them fairly frequently they can gum up with old fuel and perform inaccurately.
In Oz a fair diesel specialist would charge less than a $100aud for a re -calibrated mechanical injector including new denso nozzle, ready to install. A greedy specialist charges more, and can be up to $600 per electric injector for newer engines, maybe even more!.
Last year I paid $80aud per mechanical injector including new denso nozzles. But average is at least $100.
Injector housings are often wire wheeled cleaned, some ultrasonic clean, stripped down, denso nozzles installed, they are good value and quality so may as well put a new one in (the cost of all the fancy cleaning goops, time and bs often is comparable to a new nozzle which is good for 100k kms) .
You can supply your specialist with your new nozzles and housings which saves him having to order them. They need calibration.
I choose a specialist that I like as a person.
A calibrated pop tester which diesel specialist use, can measure when your nozzle opens and closes, how it closes without dribbling /leaking and spray pattern can be observed.
You can buy elcheapo pop testers, but they are not always reliable and if you don't use them fairly frequently they can gum up with old fuel and perform inaccurately.
In Oz a fair diesel specialist would charge less than a $100aud for a re -calibrated mechanical injector including new denso nozzle, ready to install. A greedy specialist charges more, and can be up to $600 per electric injector for newer engines, maybe even more!.
Last year I paid $80aud per mechanical injector including new denso nozzles. But average is at least $100.
Injector housings are often wire wheeled cleaned, some ultrasonic clean, stripped down, denso nozzles installed, they are good value and quality so may as well put a new one in (the cost of all the fancy cleaning goops, time and bs often is comparable to a new nozzle which is good for 100k kms) .
You can supply your specialist with your new nozzles and housings which saves him having to order them. They need calibration.
I choose a specialist that I like as a person.
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Bj 73 was running hot at speed over 60mph and my servo valve controlling hot water flow to the heater core was not strong enough to close all the way with all the gunk in the cooling system.
I did an extensive cooling system clean and flush. I installed a manual gate valve to control got water to the heater. Refilled with coolant. Wow what a difference! Engine is running much cooler, and my AC is now nice and cold. Pic of the valve coming up through one of the old defrost vents. Easy to turn on and off
I did an extensive cooling system clean and flush. I installed a manual gate valve to control got water to the heater. Refilled with coolant. Wow what a difference! Engine is running much cooler, and my AC is now nice and cold. Pic of the valve coming up through one of the old defrost vents. Easy to turn on and off
I did such a flush when I got my BJ73. Days later the waterpump was shot, likely because of debris broken loose by the flush but didn't flush out. Fingers crossed
it works better for you.Handrail valves in the Cockpit? A bit steam engine flair. Cool. Probably you put a label 'warp-plasma injection' on it, just to balance vintage and future. No offense. Just kidding
Cheers Ralf
sark
42601-60262-03
That valve is going to be one of those "what in the previous-owner is this contraption" without a prior explanation 
I hadn't thought about a label for it, but I really like your idea for "warp-plasma injection". I truly value and admire simple functionality. The manual hot water valve fits that bill........It won't surprise me if I have some trouble not long after the flush out. It is what it is, I'm driving with good AC on a truck that's running cool right for now and as you say fingers crossed. Previously the truck was in Spain(warm country they used straight water for years) heater core and original radiator was completely rotten, It likely had many years of stop leak gunk built up inside.I did such a flush when I got my BJ73. Days later the waterpump was shot, likely because of debris broken loose by the flush but didn't flush out. Fingers crossed
Handrail valves in the Cockpit? A bit steam engine flair. Cool. Probably you put a label 'warp-plasma injection' on it, just to balance vintage and future. No offense. Just kidding
I have a spark plug plugging the pre-turbo/original breather tube to the intake(it was the right size and on hand). No-one has asked me about that yet. I've been waiting to tell someone: "it's a irridium platinum core plug, they give you more power"That valve is going to be one of those "what in the previous-owner is this contraption" without a prior explanation
Was dreading starting this one, but I cut the rust cut out of my driver's footwell and welded replacement flanges. Ended up enjoying myself once I was back at it! To think this all could have been avoided had the windscreen not been left to leak for 20 years by POs...
