What did you do on your 70 series today? (46 Viewers)

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I also completed the new floor and setup for camping.
Well, this is not predominantly a camping or overlandig setup. I want it to be versatile.
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Floor is birch plywood, coated clear with boat-enamel. Below I replaced the brittle bitumen stuff by butyl Sound deadner. I also put a layer of close-cell polyfoam. Also known as cheap camping mats from Walmart. Work great ;)
The airline rails to secure the load.
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Those boxes are stackable. I enforced the lid with a nice wooden board. With a cushion it makes a nice seating.
The hight inside the vehicle is just right to sit upright. Well, the door frame and sill is in the way to look outside, but some shelter in rainy Germany is more important.
I also made a fold down table to the right door.
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On the left 1 have all the stuff that I want at quick access:
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I put some load securing points to the rollcage, just below the roll for the seatbelts.
The strap goes to my hammock.
 
This is my sleeping setup:
Military folding stretcher fixed to the rollcage:
20210530_140130.jpg

Unfolded, it extends to both ends by ~30 cm / 12 inch.
It is basically hanging in adjustable straps from the rollcage.
The one stand goes in the rope loop at the load securing point next to the seatbelt roll.
This prevents it from swinging.
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Two layers of boxes fit below the stretcher. That provides space to climb in.
A selfinflating mattress and a sleeping bag; ready.
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Cheers !
Ralf
!
 
Last week I got a swing out tire carrier installed using a kit from Coastal offroad welded at a local shop. That let me have a custom bike rack built. I made a few modifications to the tire carrier so the small left door can open without opening the tire carrier. It has plenty of clearance for the bikes and is easy to load and unload. The only downside is the moment arm is high so there is a little bit of wobble due to the natural wobble in the swing out arm hinge. If I go very far, I can attach a strap to the roof rack and keep the wobble down.


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I recently got a Kaymar 76 bar but I haven't had much time to work on it until today.

Today I managed to pin the wires for the LED light pods into waterproof male end terminals. Electrical harness stuff is pretty new to me so it was nice to learn how to do it. I got this idea from @divemedic 's thread discussing his own Kaymar bar install to use waterproof terminals. Tomorrow I will take a stab at tapping into the combination light harness on the 77 for the female end terminals.

After all of that, then it will be time to get the bar installed.

Kaymar Bar Wire 2.jpg


Kaymar Bar Wire 4.jpg


Kaymar Bar Wire 3.jpg
 
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This is my sleeping setup:
Military folding stretcher fixed to the rollcage:
View attachment 2689013
Unfolded, it extends to both ends by ~30 cm / 12 inch.
It is basically hanging in adjustable straps from the rollcage.
The one stand goes in the rope loop at the load securing point next to the seatbelt roll.
This prevents it from swinging.
View attachment 2689015
Two layers of boxes fit below the stretcher. That provides space to climb in.
A selfinflating mattress and a sleeping bag; ready.
View attachment 2689016
Cheers !
Ralf
!
I guess I'm not the only guy using a stretcher for my bed in the BJ73. Stretchers can go on a roof rack, under your truck if you have enough lift/big tires, perching on coolers or boxes etc... Nice rig!
 
Last week I got a swing out tire carrier installed using a kit from Coastal offroad welded at a local shop. That let me have a custom bike rack built. I made a few modifications to the tire carrier so the small left door can open without opening the tire carrier. It has plenty of clearance for the bikes and is easy to load and unload. The only downside is the moment arm is high so there is a little bit of wobble due to the natural wobble in the swing out arm hinge. If I go very far, I can attach a strap to the roof rack and keep the wobble down.


View attachment 2689120
Nice one!

Sure some of the folks in this thread may have some questions for ya:
 
1987 JDM BJ74

I have been driving short distances for a few monthes with lots of dash lights on....As I narrowed the possibilities (loose ground(s) > bad voltage regulator > bad alternator...I became more interested in solving the problem. loose grounds? = nope, bad voltage regulator? = nope...alternator on the way out? = apparently.....

Yesterday I tried to weld my 10mm gear wrench from the old alternator wire post (24volts) to the alternator bracket (0 volts). A brief crackle, pop, puff, and smell of smoke reminded me of:

1) I probably should have disconnected batteries first and

2) wait? this isn't a Lucas wired Land Rover?????

Then I installed the recently acquired (thanks @Onur !) used but recently refreshed alternator (I swapped the little tiny vac distribution piping piece from the old alternator 'cause it better matched my truck...)

Anyhow that was yesterday.....today I spliced in some short bits of wire & and ring terminals in the vacinity of some pretty tired/corroded fuseable link/wire bits next to the battery near the firewall.....I got it all back together and YES! started right up with no dash indicator lights Wooooohoooo!!!!


IMG_5852.jpg
IMG_5851.jpg
 
1987 JDM BJ74

I have been driving short distances for a few monthes with lots of dash lights on....As I narrowed the possibilities (loose ground(s) > bad voltage regulator > bad alternator...I became more interested in solving the problem. loose grounds? = nope, bad voltage regulator? = nope...alternator on the way out? = apparently.....

Yesterday I tried to weld my 10mm gear wrench from the old alternator wire post (24volts) to the alternator bracket (0 volts). A brief crackle, pop, puff, and smell of smoke reminded me of:

1) I probably should have disconnected batteries first and

2) wait? this isn't a Lucas wired Land Rover?????

Then I installed the recently acquired (thanks @Onur !) used but recently refreshed alternator (I swapped the little tiny vac distribution piping piece from the old alternator 'cause it better matched my truck...)

Anyhow that was yesterday.....today I spliced in some short bits of wire & and ring terminals in the vacinity of some pretty tired/corroded fuseable link/wire bits next to the battery near the firewall.....I got it all back together and YES! started right up with no dash indicator lights Wooooohoooo!!!!


View attachment 2691400View attachment 2691401
Oops. Sorry. Not sure why it quoted this post. The voltage notes did crack me up.
 
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Kinda boring but, I’ve been methodically removing every panel, adding sound deadening, cosmoline on all the pinch welds and hardware and reinstalling everything. Also swapping out all plastic parts that are still available, some are going NLA.

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I just put a new one on as well and I agree with that. Did the clam shell as well l, add 3 minutes. 😂
Ha. Totally. Disconnecting the battery took half that time too. Worth every second. Nice to see what new clean grey interior woulda looked like, eh. And there must be an OEM steering wheel stockpile somewhere in Japan with all the Nardi and MoMo wheel swaps happening there.
 
Other quickie to-dos from the weekend that felt pretty damn good. Swapped out the all black license plate light cover and replaced the fuel cap. Love the quickies.

Is that black on black OEM? Different market? Corolla? Plan to modify it a bit to make it work on bumper accessories when the door unit is blocked.

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