What crimp tool do I need? (1 Viewer)

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I'm making connectors for Toyota fog light switches and can't figure out what crimp tool I need for the bare connectors that slide into the connector housing. Picture of connector attached. My other option is to buy the wire and connector already assembled from Toyota and crimp those on to my wire instead, but if I can get a good crimp tool that's easy to use and cheap, It would be better. Pic of connector attached. Would something like this suffice? Ratcheting Crimping Tool
20190802_152129.jpg
 
that crimping tool seems to be for your typical cheap common spade type connector with a cylindrical barrel. It likely does not have the special die shape that curves the wings back in that I would think your pin requires from what I can guess from that pic; and would probably just crush it to a shapeless blob. And I imagine if you will put that pin in a housing it may need to be just right. I was surprised at how many different types of crimps there are when I looked into it. I got a fairly versatile tool that came with something like 6 or 7 different dies, each for a different type of crimp, for the main types of crimps I am using, but it was a lot more expensive than the above and still does not do all crimps. Maybe a crimper for Anderson powerpoles or for MC4 solar connectors might work, they do the wing folding trick.
So my guess is that, no, that tool is not right and the proper tool, even if only with one die set, will cost more and be limited in use. And you'll want to know exactly which one to get. But somebody who does this for a living will know better...
 
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You need a Weather Pack style crimping tool. They are available on Amazon for under $30.

Crimper

However, if you only have a couple terminals to crimp, I've done it successfully with a regular style crimping tool and some needle nose pliers.
 
Needle nose pliers it is. Now I need a prison shank from @NLXTACY because I put a pin in the wrong hole :bang:
20190802_172600.jpg
 
The only issue is with that you only have a compression grip on the wire instead of a “bite” that a crimping tool gives you. Be sure to secure the sleeve end as well because that acts as a strain relief for the wire.
 
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The only issue is with that you only have a compression grip on the wire instead of a “bite” that a cramping tool gives you. Be sure to secure the sleeve end as well because that acts as a strain relief for the wire.
Got it. It works and is secure enough, just can't yank the switch out of the dash.
 
that crimp looks iffy to me -sorry-, if you want peace of mind maybe you could put a bit of solder on if you are good with that, or at least cover it in some sealant to protect it all from oxidation in the long term?
added: if you're interested, as far as I know, a good crimp should be such that the wires inside have essentially formed one solid mass -or close- under the pressure. Anything less is problematic. There are interesting cross section pics of those out there.
 
That crimp looks dodgy to me too. And since it is, I'd recommend you solder it. Usually good crimps are less failure prone than soldered joints, but in this case, I think solder would be good. And maybe a tiny piece of heat shrink over that. Ratcheting crimpers of the proper type work incredibly well. But this connection is poor in a bunch of ways. The crimp isn't tight and set, the wire isn't pushed into the crimp far enough and the strain relief tabs are not doing anything. Anyway, it's a failure point waiting to happen. But it's in a non-critical spot, so your call. I'd re-do it right.
 
I have been getting Sumitomo/Toyota connectors and a crimp tool from Eastern Beaver.
I bought the Hozan P707

Crimper
 
Good source.
 
Just buy the proper crimp tool...it will pay dividends.
 

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