Decided it was time to replace the engine on my 1994 with a reman from cruiserparts.net. Also, for those that care this was one of the only few places that actually had an engine in stock and the price was within my budget. I searched high and low and several places stopped carrying them, so for those in a similar situation please take a look at cruiserparts.net . They also passed that engines are rebuilt with all Toyota Parts and seals. The other places just said like OEM so who knows what you actually getting. Will confirm once I get the actual engine. Planning to start this project early next month as the subject line state what capacity engine hoist should I get? Thinking a 1 ton from Harbor freight will work but wanted to confirm for anyone that's done it. I am planning to leave the transmission in the Cruiser because I have limited overhead space.
What capacity engine Hoist?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MickeyB
- Start date
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If you plan on pulling the engine w/ tranny+transfer, you need a 2 ton. Load leveler is key if you don't have folks to help you move it around. I put back in myself w/ full driveline and it was a SOB. Helps to take wheels off and put on blocks and strap frame to axle to keep springs compressed. I would have been scared to do with a 1 ton lift as you need the boom extended. If you happen to be in Bend/Oregon I'll sell you the one I bought 
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Better to have more capacity than you need than just barely enough. I just picked up a 2.5T hoist this past week to help with the 1UZ swap my son and I are doing in his truck. I'm sure it's plenty but I'd feel sketchy having anything less.
^^ thisIf you plan on pulling the engine w/ tranny+transfer, you need a 2 ton. Load leveler is key if you don't have folks to help you move it around. I put back in myself w/ full driveline and it was a SOB. Helps to take wheels off and put on blocks and strap frame to axle to keep springs compressed. I would have been scared to do with a 1 ton lift as you need the boom extended. If you happen to be in Bend/Oregon I'll sell you the one I bought
Even without the trans, I still would rather play with it on a 2ton. Just moving mine around the garage on a 1ton (no trans) seem sketcher than I liked.
- Thread starter
- #7
Btw, who is the Slow95z?
Definitely get the 2 ton. Slow95z is a member who has a part out business and always has decent parts for reasonable prices.
Hoping it turns out OK, but IIRC someone (or 2) had a bad experience with a cruiserparts engine in the past??
Here's one:
forum.ih8mud.com
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Why not rebuild what you have, or did it suffer major damage?
Here's one:
1fz-fe
It lloks like I will have to replace my engine in my 96 cruiser. Could you please help me guide to a place to get a completely rebuilt engine. I was looking into getting one from cruiserparts, but it is just almost impossible to get in touch with them. Thanks Andras
forum.ih8mud.com
Why not rebuild what you have, or did it suffer major damage?
It's not a 'splurge' its a necessity.
2 Ton MINIMUM. The 2 ton rating is figured at the shortest positioning of the arm. As you extend it...the rating goes down dramatically.
The weight of the 1FZ-FE is 584 lbs. by itself. IF you pull the trans/Tcase along with it (as many folks do) you add quite a bit more weight. NEVER buy an engine hoist that is 'just enough', buy one with a rating significantly over what you plan to lift.
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I have an older 3 ton, extendable. I looked in to 2 tons, and had several friends with 2 tons, but always got a little concerned when extending, and the capacity.
I bought mine used, and have used it far more than I thought I would.
Check for used- usually people want to off load them for cheap. Even if it needs a new ram (Northern tool or Harbor freight for about $50-100), usually they're worth it.
I agree, 2 ton is a minimum
I bought mine used, and have used it far more than I thought I would.
Check for used- usually people want to off load them for cheap. Even if it needs a new ram (Northern tool or Harbor freight for about $50-100), usually they're worth it.
I agree, 2 ton is a minimum
My hoist is rated for 3 but I always put the whole package so I need to extend it all the way out to get the weight centered. I use two large batteries on the hoist to keep it from tilting.
It's crazy sketchy and I never do it alone. One day I will make longer side legs. I never have issues lifting the engine, it's that it wants to tip the hoist over sideways.
It's crazy sketchy and I never do it alone. One day I will make longer side legs. I never have issues lifting the engine, it's that it wants to tip the hoist over sideways.
Mine is 3 ton also. But has extendable legs (forwards and sideways)....and I concur, tipping side ways can be a real concern sometimes.
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
I've pulled complete drivetrains from 80's over a dozen times, including 1HDT+A442+HF2AV. I have a "2 ton" hoist similar to the one in post #10 and i always used it at 1/2 ton setting when im too lazy to remove the front bumper. Extending the arm all the way out gives it more lifting range, which allows you to put a load leveler there, and STILL have enough clearance to remove the drive train without removing the front bumper or the tires. It never felt sketchy to me at all.
He's looking for cost of a 1FZ-FE 93-94.Man I need to put you on ignore
Unless you want to ignore me.......
Well I only have one known good 93/94 engine but it's 3500 bucks. Reason I say that much is it's from my newest part out rig and it's an engine I had built 3 years ago. Everything new in it, bored out, new pistons, arp studs... I kinda wanna hang onto it but would let it go for 3500. Cost me way more than that to have it built.
- Thread starter
- #19
Nice, post some pics?
its currently in the truck so it looks like any other engine other than the painted valve cover. been out there all morning working on tearing the truck down. so much harder to pull an engine when you cant unbolt stuff :-/
pic of the truck so you know what i am working with.
