Ouch!!!!!!!!
What are you working on? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
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Ugh, I hate that shelving! I've had it happen in my house too but not to that extent, so sorry Avi!I will have to take you up on that offer after I get some things situated at home -_-
Things that need situated at home:
I should have been more proactive and replaced them as well, if you recall about a year ago around the same time, I had other shelves that the precious owner installed fall on the Lexus.
Live and learn I guess, called the homeowners insurance since the Rav is dented and the actual car paint is now coming off the hood....
This also just solidifies for me more that I need to start demo on the 'finished' basement he did himself before this place burns to the ground -_-
Exactly, maybe the 35s will make it on for a winter run? Lol
Took the white cruiser to Rehoboth Beach and back ... zero issues. Went to start it yesterday to take my son driving and it was dead. Seems the battery may be done as it starts right up after a charge and the ScanGuage says the voltage is just fine when running. Very happy I chose to drive straight back from the beach without stopping for fuel.
Alright guys,
I just ran another torture test on my cooling system at lunch. Results are over on the main forum since I wanted to open it up to opinions - but obviously Keystone's opinions are welcome as well:
Another 350 V8 Cooling Thread - Questions.
Obviously I wish it ran cooler - but I'm not actually 100% convinced there's a problem...at least not until the outside temperature hits about 105-110 degrees - at which point I probably won't be driving an un-air-conditioned FJ40...
I just ran another torture test on my cooling system at lunch. Results are over on the main forum since I wanted to open it up to opinions - but obviously Keystone's opinions are welcome as well:
Another 350 V8 Cooling Thread - Questions.
Obviously I wish it ran cooler - but I'm not actually 100% convinced there's a problem...at least not until the outside temperature hits about 105-110 degrees - at which point I probably won't be driving an un-air-conditioned FJ40...
How well tuned is the carb? I'm curious if youre running rich, if so that could attribute to you overheating, just thinking outside the box. It's been a while since I touched anything carburetor but I remember in school that was one thing that attributed to the T-buckets we built with 350s in them.
So on the more happier side of things, I recently had some 17 Sequioa/Tundra wheels that I had acquired last year powder coated. They were pretty bad:
Inhad them blasted and powder coated because A) I wanted to see how good the local powder coating place was, B) They are going to be wrapped with a daily driver tire so I can save the MTs when they go on.
I was able to get work to sneak me in since I really need to drive the truck daily until the husbands Rav4 is sorted out...
So without further ado, lipstick on a pig:
I will get the center caps painted black and leave the toyota emblem chrome, after I recover them from under the layers of paint on my tool box -_-
The tires as posted earlier are cheap Ebay specials but should do the trick, better then the MTs that were on there with shifted belts, tried to see if they would balance and it was a no go....
Inhad them blasted and powder coated because A) I wanted to see how good the local powder coating place was, B) They are going to be wrapped with a daily driver tire so I can save the MTs when they go on.
I was able to get work to sneak me in since I really need to drive the truck daily until the husbands Rav4 is sorted out...
So without further ado, lipstick on a pig:
I will get the center caps painted black and leave the toyota emblem chrome, after I recover them from under the layers of paint on my tool box -_-
The tires as posted earlier are cheap Ebay specials but should do the trick, better then the MTs that were on there with shifted belts, tried to see if they would balance and it was a no go....
Those temps don't seem out of the ordinary for an old school small block. Your tests show that your water pump, fan, and radiator are working as they should.
I would suggest a second gauge to verify the temp. Could install it under the hood to keep the interior the way you have it for testing or mount it under the dash to keep from hacking things up. My volt meter also came with a temperature probe, could go that route and insert the probe in the upper radiator hose to direct monitor coolant temp. On one of our vehicles this is how the temp sender for the electric fan is set up, which works well.
brian
SILVER Star
lean running would be hot.
I've been thinking about doing that for a long time - my radio is long gone and I've had a second oil pressure guage shoved in there since I bought the truck. I've been tossing around building a bezzel that fits the radio hole to mount (at a minimum) a second temp and oil pressure gauge. If it fits, voltage or the world's tiniest tachometer would be my third choice.
That said, from the opinions I've had so far, seems like things are fairly "as they should be"
for anyone with fan shroud experience - what are your thoughts on 1/2" or so of clearance between the blades and the shroud. I haven't run into problems on the road, just wondering if I would when everything is twisting offroad. Up until recently I was running an 17" fan instead of an 18" so I had a full inch (plus) in most places but the temperatures were a bit hotter...
Been my experience over the years with lean running being a contributor to overheating, not rich conditions.
@RWBeringer4x4
... Not sure how new that engine is (crate?) or how the LS series relates to a 350SB. but my 6.0L LS2 swapped into my Z-car has a "normal" operating temp of 200*F when just cruising and will get to and stay near 220-230*F when I beat on it. My car runs the stock Nissan radiator and 2 Spal puller fans because of close clearance up front, but they are similar size to the stock Nissan fans. A friend with a similar year Corvette showed his "normal" operating temp was always 220-230*F and his car was bone stock.
My car runs rich, like 12.9-14.0 AFR and soots the bumper like any good import, but temps stay consistent. Per your last response in the other thread, you haven't seen the temp go past the 3/4 mark. You may be trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. I would get a real and accurate gauge on it, then drive it in all temps and conditions (hwy, stop-n-go) and monitor your real results. Shut if off and figure things out if you see it over 235*ish, if not just know that this is your "normal" range of operating temps.
... Not sure how new that engine is (crate?) or how the LS series relates to a 350SB. but my 6.0L LS2 swapped into my Z-car has a "normal" operating temp of 200*F when just cruising and will get to and stay near 220-230*F when I beat on it. My car runs the stock Nissan radiator and 2 Spal puller fans because of close clearance up front, but they are similar size to the stock Nissan fans. A friend with a similar year Corvette showed his "normal" operating temp was always 220-230*F and his car was bone stock.
My car runs rich, like 12.9-14.0 AFR and soots the bumper like any good import, but temps stay consistent. Per your last response in the other thread, you haven't seen the temp go past the 3/4 mark. You may be trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. I would get a real and accurate gauge on it, then drive it in all temps and conditions (hwy, stop-n-go) and monitor your real results. Shut if off and figure things out if you see it over 235*ish, if not just know that this is your "normal" range of operating temps.
Yeah, that's kind of how I'm leaning - I don't think there's a real emergency here, I was just surprised to see cast iron temperatures as high as they were. I know newer motors run hotter (better combustion) and that 220-230 is pretty common. Just wasn't sure about an old iron unit. I don't expect there would be an issue there either, but honestly just don't know - thus the questions! If the coolant is at 210, I'd almost consider that "normal" with protracted idling.
The engine is a crate Gen 1 350 - installed about 1500 miles ago. So it should be out of the "break in" period but not by much...
It seems like FJ40's stock 6 cylinders run more toward the second hash mark (below halfway). Assuming the gauge graduations are roughly even, and the highest point is ~230-240 degrees (boiling over) Does this mean 2F's routinely run at 170-180F?
I'm leaning toward thinking I'm chasing a phantom cooling problem but it does illustrate a need for better gauges.
brian
SILVER Star
Yes right around 180.
With a correctly operating gauge and sending unit that is the second mark from the left...the low side of normal operating temp zone in the middle.
That info comes from the owners manual.
With a correctly operating gauge and sending unit that is the second mark from the left...the low side of normal operating temp zone in the middle.
That info comes from the owners manual.
Just an update on my paint dilemma:
Homeowners will not cover a thing, since it wasn't some act of nature (like a tree branch falling through the roof and knocking down the shelf) it will not be covered. They did say however since I have full coverage on the car to at least put an auto claim in and have the car repaired. So, I'm out a box. I think I can figure something out.
So, I went an filed a claim with the auto insurance.
Well as luck would have it *sarcasm* they want to call it a total loss. -_-
Something along the lines of something in the paint is taking off the paint of the car. (I'm sure there isn't much clear coat left on the hood at least so I would imagine) but then it just starts racking up to the point where the entire car would have to be redone 0_0!!
I told them I was only mostly worried about the hood and a-pillar dent and that I didn't really need a new $500 wiper cowl or mud flaps or wiper arms. But they have settled on the decision and I need to make the next call.
At a cross roads at this point. Another car payment is not in the cards right now. That was suppose to be for a Tundra for me. When things have settle with other finances.
With the 4runner bring lifted, diving 60 miles a day is not practical.
I am confident I can clean up the Rav enough to drive, but all necessary repairs will now be out of pocket.
If I withdrawal my claim I still keep a clean title as well. The car is mechanically flawless and runs better then anything I've owned (even the 4Runner), so, I think I'm leaning towards just slowly repairing what I can myself and keeping the Rav.
The only additional down side is my husband will have to drive it with some house paint on it for some time....
Homeowners will not cover a thing, since it wasn't some act of nature (like a tree branch falling through the roof and knocking down the shelf) it will not be covered. They did say however since I have full coverage on the car to at least put an auto claim in and have the car repaired. So, I'm out a box. I think I can figure something out.
So, I went an filed a claim with the auto insurance.
Well as luck would have it *sarcasm* they want to call it a total loss. -_-
Something along the lines of something in the paint is taking off the paint of the car. (I'm sure there isn't much clear coat left on the hood at least so I would imagine) but then it just starts racking up to the point where the entire car would have to be redone 0_0!!
I told them I was only mostly worried about the hood and a-pillar dent and that I didn't really need a new $500 wiper cowl or mud flaps or wiper arms. But they have settled on the decision and I need to make the next call.
At a cross roads at this point. Another car payment is not in the cards right now. That was suppose to be for a Tundra for me. When things have settle with other finances.
With the 4runner bring lifted, diving 60 miles a day is not practical.
I am confident I can clean up the Rav enough to drive, but all necessary repairs will now be out of pocket.
If I withdrawal my claim I still keep a clean title as well. The car is mechanically flawless and runs better then anything I've owned (even the 4Runner), so, I think I'm leaning towards just slowly repairing what I can myself and keeping the Rav.
The only additional down side is my husband will have to drive it with some house paint on it for some time....
That stinks!
Can you talk to them about totaling it, and then you buying it back?
I don't think the salvage title is that big of a deal. If you go to resell it, you have all the documentation showing the ridiculous reason why.
Sounds to me like your Rav4 needs a fake carbon fiber hood with an air scoop
Solves the paint dilemma and your husband will be styyylliinnnnnIn all seriousness - for the panels that aren't welded to the unibody, what about going and finding a similar color in a junkyard somewhere? That's how I have fixed pretty much every bodywork issue I've had. I used to have a 1989 Plymouth Colt wagon (worst car ever) that I drove doorless to Reading, PA after I Tommy-boy'd the old passenger-side door off on a basketball hoop. Came home in a Blue Colt Wagon with a new door that was half the matching blue, and half gray from a 2-tone Colt that had been rear-end totaled. I decided if the car was going to look that booty-fab I was going to slap $13 K-mart hubcap spinners on it as well. Drove it another 2 years that way until my dad decided to go toe-to-toe with a F150. I still think it was intentional just to kill that POS.
Long story short - when life gives you lemons, build a s***ty ricer!