Ouch!!!!!!!!
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Ugh, I hate that shelving! I've had it happen in my house too but not to that extent, so sorry Avi!I will have to take you up on that offer after I get some things situated at home -_-
Things that need situated at home:
Ugh, I hate that shelving! I've had it happen in my house too but not to that extent, so sorry Avi!
@YotaFun just what you needed. More project's.
Exactly, maybe the 35s will make it on for a winter run? Lol
Alright guys,
I just ran another torture test on my cooling system at lunch. Results are over on the main forum since I wanted to open it up to opinions - but obviously Keystone's opinions are welcome as well:
Another 350 V8 Cooling Thread - Questions.
Obviously I wish it ran cooler - but I'm not actually 100% convinced there's a problem...at least not until the outside temperature hits about 105-110 degrees - at which point I probably won't be driving an un-air-conditioned FJ40...
Those temps don't seem out of the ordinary for an old school small block. Your tests show that your water pump, fan, and radiator are working as they should.Alright guys,
I just ran another torture test on my cooling system at lunch. Results are over on the main forum since I wanted to open it up to opinions - but obviously Keystone's opinions are welcome as well:
Another 350 V8 Cooling Thread - Questions.
Obviously I wish it ran cooler - but I'm not actually 100% convinced there's a problem...at least not until the outside temperature hits about 105-110 degrees - at which point I probably won't be driving an un-air-conditioned FJ40...
How well tuned is the carb? I'm curious if youre running rich, if so that could attribute to you overheating, just thinking outside the box. It's been a while since I touched anything carburetor but I remember in school that was one thing that attributed to the T-buckets we built with 350s in them.
Those temps don't seem out of the ordinary for an old school small block. Your tests show that your water pump, fan, and radiator are working as they should.
I would suggest a second gauge to verify the temp. Could install it under the hood to keep the interior the way you have it for testing or mount it under the dash to keep from hacking things up. My volt meter also came with a temperature probe, could go that route and insert the probe in the upper radiator hose to direct monitor coolant temp. On one of our vehicles this is how the temp sender for the electric fan is set up, which works well.
Been my experience over the years with lean running being a contributor to overheating, not rich conditions.How well tuned is the carb? I'm curious if youre running rich, if so that could attribute to you overheating, just thinking outside the box. It's been a while since I touched anything carburetor but I remember in school that was one thing that attributed to the T-buckets we built with 350s in them.
@RWBeringer4x4
... Not sure how new that engine is (crate?) or how the LS series relates to a 350SB. but my 6.0L LS2 swapped into my Z-car has a "normal" operating temp of 200*F when just cruising and will get to and stay near 220-230*F when I beat on it. My car runs the stock Nissan radiator and 2 Spal puller fans because of close clearance up front, but they are similar size to the stock Nissan fans. A friend with a similar year Corvette showed his "normal" operating temp was always 220-230*F and his car was bone stock.
My car runs rich, like 12.9-14.0 AFR and soots the bumper like any good import, but temps stay consistent. Per your last response in the other thread, you haven't seen the temp go past the 3/4 mark. You may be trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. I would get a real and accurate gauge on it, then drive it in all temps and conditions (hwy, stop-n-go) and monitor your real results. Shut if off and figure things out if you see it over 235*ish, if not just know that this is your "normal" range of operating temps.
they want to call it a total loss
Just an update on my paint dilemma:
Homeowners will not cover a thing, since it wasn't some act of nature (like a tree branch falling through the roof and knocking down the shelf) it will not be covered. They did say however since I have full coverage on the car to at least put an auto claim in and have the car repaired. So, I'm out a box. I think I can figure something out.
So, I went an filed a claim with the auto insurance.
Well as luck would have it *sarcasm* they want to call it a total loss. -_-
Something along the lines of something in the paint is taking off the paint of the car. (I'm sure there isn't much clear coat left on the hood at least so I would imagine) but then it just starts racking up to the point where the entire car would have to be redone 0_0!!
I told them I was only mostly worried about the hood and a-pillar dent and that I didn't really need a new $500 wiper cowl or mud flaps or wiper arms. But they have settled on the decision and I need to make the next call.
At a cross roads at this point. Another car payment is not in the cards right now. That was suppose to be for a Tundra for me. When things have settle with other finances.
With the 4runner bring lifted, diving 60 miles a day is not practical.
I am confident I can clean up the Rav enough to drive, but all necessary repairs will now be out of pocket.
If I withdrawal my claim I still keep a clean title as well. The car is mechanically flawless and runs better then anything I've owned (even the 4Runner), so, I think I'm leaning towards just slowly repairing what I can myself and keeping the Rav.
The only additional down side is my husband will have to drive it with some house paint on it for some time....