Love me some HF impact sockets!Six point socket for big jobs Like that...
Chris, you have been BUSY!
What are you working on? (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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Yeah, need to get some 6-point metric impacts. Oddly I have them in standard sizes, but not metric. Going to need another toolbox soon too. Garage is getting a little crowded.
So far no leaks. Very happy about that. The truck seems to be running solid at 184*F now. Not sure if that is the blue fan or what, but the old fan clutch had failed and was constantly engaged, so it's a lot quieter at least.
Need to take a few weeks and then plan to do the knuckles. They are both bone dry it seems. Hoping this truck just runs for years then after that. The plan was to prep this truck for my son, but he doesn't have any interest helping me wrench on it, so it will be hard to give it up to him.
So far no leaks. Very happy about that. The truck seems to be running solid at 184*F now. Not sure if that is the blue fan or what, but the old fan clutch had failed and was constantly engaged, so it's a lot quieter at least.
Need to take a few weeks and then plan to do the knuckles. They are both bone dry it seems. Hoping this truck just runs for years then after that. The plan was to prep this truck for my son, but he doesn't have any interest helping me wrench on it, so it will be hard to give it up to him.
brian
SILVER Star
Couldnt stand it anymore.
Started working on the doors original to my 75.
The PS is hairy on the bottom, but there are panels for that. The ds is pretty clean.
A couple decades ago I found a 75 that had super clean doors and a nice floor mat....for 500 it was a steal, and easier to use those doors. Now I want the oes.
Started working on the doors original to my 75.
The PS is hairy on the bottom, but there are panels for that. The ds is pretty clean.
A couple decades ago I found a 75 that had super clean doors and a nice floor mat....for 500 it was a steal, and easier to use those doors. Now I want the oes.
Spent a good bit of yesterday just trying to organize and clean up the workshop. Made some good progress.
I spent a good bit of time yesterday being hung over. When will I learn.
Both the front doors and the amby doors on my nephew's 40 were repaired with those patch panels. One of my doors was done the same, all the work by my body guy. He was happy with the way the patch pieces fit and we are happy with the finished results.
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I’ve been fighting serious burnout on the FJ40. Bodywork is next (or resealing the transfercase AGAIN) so I decided to spend this winter working on some other projects.
Got started on a welding cart/added storage/small fab table:
And bought an old, 1937 Delta high speed drill:
It didn’t take long to realize the bearings were about 30 years overdue to replacement and the runout was about .017 due to a badly worn chuck.
I tore it down put in new bearings and cleaned it up a bit. Put on a new chuck, and, most importantly, scored a low speed pulley and guard from a slightly newer (early 1940’s) Delta press from a local guy in Oxford, PA. This should get the RPM’s down to “metal working” speeds.
New low speed pulleys, belts, and some scrubbing later:
A bit of a mismatched “hat” for the pulley and a new chuck:
With the new chuck and bearings, I’ve got about 0.003 runout. The old repulsion-induction motor hums along great and I’m getting nice, clean holes.
I scored an extra motor pulley in the deal that I may use to build myself a custom idler attachment for even lower drill speeds. With that, I should be able to get just below 200RPM which should be plenty slow to drill some decent size holes in steel.
Got started on a welding cart/added storage/small fab table:
And bought an old, 1937 Delta high speed drill:
It didn’t take long to realize the bearings were about 30 years overdue to replacement and the runout was about .017 due to a badly worn chuck.
I tore it down put in new bearings and cleaned it up a bit. Put on a new chuck, and, most importantly, scored a low speed pulley and guard from a slightly newer (early 1940’s) Delta press from a local guy in Oxford, PA. This should get the RPM’s down to “metal working” speeds.
New low speed pulleys, belts, and some scrubbing later:
A bit of a mismatched “hat” for the pulley and a new chuck:
With the new chuck and bearings, I’ve got about 0.003 runout. The old repulsion-induction motor hums along great and I’m getting nice, clean holes.
I scored an extra motor pulley in the deal that I may use to build myself a custom idler attachment for even lower drill speeds. With that, I should be able to get just below 200RPM which should be plenty slow to drill some decent size holes in steel.
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This is coming up next for me - if you happen to take some more pictures of how you go about cutting those up and welding in the new metal, and wouldn’t mind sharing, I’d appreciate it. I’ve never done bodywork and the prospect is intimidating.
brian
SILVER Star
I will put some in here but there will probably be more in the 40s section.
Not sure I'm terribly pleased with the panels. I went real steel parts this time and while nice, I think ccot panels may have been nicer.
I went Real Steel as well so, if nothing else, it will be a good direct comparison to what I’ll be dealing with.
Out of curiosity - what didn’t you like? These are the only ones I’ve seen so I have no real basis of comparison.
brian
SILVER Star
The outer panel is wide enough to over lay the door as is.
And the bend lines do not match up. So some game playing is going to be needed.
And the bend lines do not match up. So some game playing is going to be needed.
As I recall the CCOT repair panels my body guy used on our stuff fit and were shaped pretty well.
brian
SILVER Star
Ccot stuff is top shelf.
I have used some of real steel items and been happy, not sure I'm feeling it this time.
Going to have them blasted and start cutting on it. Once I can see what I actually have to work with I'll decide if I'm using them or going with ccot.
I have used some of real steel items and been happy, not sure I'm feeling it this time.
Going to have them blasted and start cutting on it. Once I can see what I actually have to work with I'll decide if I'm using them or going with ccot.
Yeah mine overlays a bit too but figured that was pretty normal. What’s the recourse there? Just cut/grind a kerf out of the middle of the patch until the edges line up? The only other thing I noticed were some corners (mostly on the rear ambulance doors) where the weather stripping would ride seemed hand-peened to get the contour/shape but not all that well. I think they’ll be useable though.
I can’t remember if I posted this in here before, so if I did I apologize. This is my buddies Jeep, he picked it up over the summer. I’m not a fan of jeeps, much less working on them but this thing is pretty wild. 40” tires and Dana 60s is pretty bad ass regardless of vehicle.
Also I had serviced this 80 series for a mud member that purchased it from a local guy but lives in CT. The transpost vehicle came by with this diesel 4x4 vw (that has air lockers). As I found out said vw was purchased over seas (belongs to a friend of a friend) and was making its way from the port of Baltimore also to CT.
Also I had serviced this 80 series for a mud member that purchased it from a local guy but lives in CT. The transpost vehicle came by with this diesel 4x4 vw (that has air lockers). As I found out said vw was purchased over seas (belongs to a friend of a friend) and was making its way from the port of Baltimore also to CT.
Dana 60 in the front too?
Did he buy it built?
I've seen these VWs before... It's a larger body than a vanagon?
Yep, 60s front and rear. Bought it built. It was Rock Krawlers demo vehicle. He drove it in Utah (he works for quadratec) and told the owner if he ever sells it let him know.
Yes, those are slightly bigger than vanagon body vehicles. Lots of neat stuff showing up in the us lately as that 25 year law is getting into the mid 90s.
While I'm talking with you Blair and some other mechanical types here.
I just picked up this Neiko brand under hood work light and it is VERY good.
Guess my eyes are starting to struggle and I need more light than I used to care for.
Neiko 40447A Rechargeable Underhood Work Light (202 SMD LED Bulbs, 1,200 Lumens Max, 8,000 mAh Li-ion Battery, 2 Brightness Modes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXC016/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uu0nCb8Z39JRM
I just picked up this Neiko brand under hood work light and it is VERY good.
Guess my eyes are starting to struggle and I need more light than I used to care for.
Neiko 40447A Rechargeable Underhood Work Light (202 SMD LED Bulbs, 1,200 Lumens Max, 8,000 mAh Li-ion Battery, 2 Brightness Modes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXC016/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uu0nCb8Z39JRM
brian
SILVER Star
hows that thing pass inspection with that much tire hanging out?
Jeeps are exempt.
