I drove one of the back hoe/ front end loader Unimogs in the Military. It was like driving a tractor see-saw!! But it was cool!
What are you working on? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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I saw one of those on dirt everyday. Super cool. If I ever hit the lottery, it won’t be Lamborghini and Ferrari it would be weird stuff like that.
brian
SILVER Star
80 series?
Did bumper prep to get the 4x4 Labs rear on that I got from Brian.
Some people have the coolest tools.
All painted and prepped. Ready for install.
The body lift gives it a little extra gap, but I'm cool with that. Without the rear resonator I do get a whistle fro the exhaust at a very specific rpm range. Easily drowned out by the radio.
Thanks again Andy. Super happy to have this done and out of my shed ... one step closer to being able to wheel with the rest of the Keystone rigs.
Already put in some work with it. Cleared some big limbs a neighbor gave me down by the mailbox.
Looking good!
I'm digging that bumper, almost stealthy...
Looks awesome!
Moving on to the "When will I learn"? portion of my holiday weekend. I decided that I want to get the Cruiser axle re-build underway, but first need the Lex at 100%. It's still dragging that caliper and has been doing so for a while. I got it up on jack stands and the wheel rotates ok, but I can feel a minor rub on the drivers side. Removed the caliper, rusty as hell, but even wear on both pads and pads are in good shape, so seems fine.
Here is when I go a bit sideways. I remove the axle nuts ... mostly because I haven't messed with the rear brakes before and I'm an idiot. In the process I shear off a stud cause I'm "that guy". Just after doing so I realize the brake rotor comes off without taking the axle cap off ... nice. So now I have another project.
Back to the original problem ... the rotor is hung up on the parking brake and will not come off. It moves a bit and feels springy, but will not release. Looking for guidance on how to remove please. Consulting the novel that is the FSM now to see if maybe backing off the adjustment star in the rotor will set it free. The cable to the parking brake is slack, so something def seems wrong on the inside.
![20180528_112434[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20180528_112434-1-jpg.1710811/ "20180528_112434[1].jpg")
Stud I broke cause I am not a smart man
![20180528_112453[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20180528_112453-1-jpg.1710812/ "20180528_112453[1].jpg")
The cable has maybe 1" of play in it. The rubber bumper is not quite against the dust cover.
![20180528_112459[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20180528_112459-1-jpg.1710813/ "20180528_112459[1].jpg")
Closer view of the same. I've hit just about every part I could with a hammer to no result.
Here is when I go a bit sideways. I remove the axle nuts ... mostly because I haven't messed with the rear brakes before and I'm an idiot. In the process I shear off a stud cause I'm "that guy". Just after doing so I realize the brake rotor comes off without taking the axle cap off ... nice. So now I have another project.
Back to the original problem ... the rotor is hung up on the parking brake and will not come off. It moves a bit and feels springy, but will not release. Looking for guidance on how to remove please. Consulting the novel that is the FSM now to see if maybe backing off the adjustment star in the rotor will set it free. The cable to the parking brake is slack, so something def seems wrong on the inside.
The cable has maybe 1" of play in it. The rubber bumper is not quite against the dust cover.
Closer view of the same. I've hit just about every part I could with a hammer to no result.
brian
SILVER Star
Fyi, if one stud was weak....they all are.
Plan to replace the other 5 on that side.
Plan to replace the other 5 on that side.
Copy that Brian ... paging Onur
There is most likely a rust ridge on the inside of the rotor hat causing it to hang up when you try to remove it. You are correct, you will need to spin that adjuster wheel almost all the way in to free the rotor.
There may also be 2 spots to turn in a bolt to force the drum off.
Usually and M8 x 1.25 or 1.0 I had to do that for a set of Tacoma Drums the other week but I can't remember what bolts exactly I pulled of the shelf.
Only use the bolts to put tension on the rotor and then hit it with a rubber hammer to help knock it loose, if you try to use the bolt to get it all the way off you run the risk of stripping out the screw holes, a little wd-40 on the center hub helps.
Thanks Guys .. will try all of that later today. Am I turning the internal adjustment screw up or down? This is the drivers side rear if that matters.
Trial and error. That’s usually how I figure it out.
Turn it in one direction while moving the rotor back and forth slightly. If the rotor starts to get hard too move...well, then you know you're being counter productive. After you loosen the adjuster enough, if it's still stuck, take a mallet , deadblow, if you have one, and whack the rotor a few times at the top and the bottom. If it's really stubborn, you may need to use a real hammer and start smacking the center of the rotor, but be careful of the studs.
Worked on some fishing on Long Island,NY this past weekend.
Using a nut as a spacer to take up slack and keep the mount and shoe in place until I can source the proper parts. Also can confirm ... spin the adjuster down (top to bottom) to compress the shoes and up to expand them.
Thanks for all the help guys. Next up, pulling in the Cruiser to attempt the knuckle rebuild, extend brake lines, new pads and rotors at all corners and possibly swap out the steering pump.
My shaved rear end.
