Very exciting times!
What are you working on?
- Thread starter matzell
- Start date
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- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
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- 323
After checking pos cables and grounds, started at the firing wire at starter solenoid and was only getting 9v when key was turned. That wasn’t enough to engage the solenoid so started tracing the circuit down.
Decided to check the neutral safety switch, found a little video on YouTube on it, ohm’ed it out and it did not ohm correctly. FML is what I was thinking. Relic Run is this week so I need to figure it out. Pulled the NSS, opened it up and cleaned the contacts. I’m not a fan of this type of work but I want my 80 running. Contacts looked fine, a little wear but nothing that seemed bad. Didn’t take a before pic but in this picture you can see some wear valleys on the inside contact on the arm, they were deeper and on both contacts. Sanded them down, cleaned the other copper strips and then rang out the wire loom itself because a lot of people have corroded wires and that is their problem. Everything rang out fine so put everything back together.
Tested the NSS again on the bench. Lo and behold it worked now. *insert sigh of relief* Threw it at the truck and it installed itself. Hopped in the truck and boom it started. Now I can start putting some miles on the new gears!
Did take the 80 for a little drive earlier today, when the truck did start, and it drives amazing. No more death wobble, thanks @Land Shark, no more driveline vibration from new driveshafts, and my speedometer is correct for the first time in years. Not happy about that because now the mileage will go up accurately
. Knuckles aren’t leaking, rear brakes working. It’s amazing what happens when you put some time and money into things.
Decided to check the neutral safety switch, found a little video on YouTube on it, ohm’ed it out and it did not ohm correctly. FML is what I was thinking. Relic Run is this week so I need to figure it out. Pulled the NSS, opened it up and cleaned the contacts. I’m not a fan of this type of work but I want my 80 running. Contacts looked fine, a little wear but nothing that seemed bad. Didn’t take a before pic but in this picture you can see some wear valleys on the inside contact on the arm, they were deeper and on both contacts. Sanded them down, cleaned the other copper strips and then rang out the wire loom itself because a lot of people have corroded wires and that is their problem. Everything rang out fine so put everything back together.
Tested the NSS again on the bench. Lo and behold it worked now. *insert sigh of relief* Threw it at the truck and it installed itself. Hopped in the truck and boom it started. Now I can start putting some miles on the new gears!
Did take the 80 for a little drive earlier today, when the truck did start, and it drives amazing. No more death wobble, thanks @Land Shark, no more driveline vibration from new driveshafts, and my speedometer is correct for the first time in years. Not happy about that because now the mileage will go up accurately
. Knuckles aren’t leaking, rear brakes working. It’s amazing what happens when you put some time and money into things.
Man your time and effort definitely shows. Its a journey for sure. You have made it super baddass!After checking pos cables and grounds, started at the firing wire at starter solenoid and was only getting 9v when key was turned. That wasn’t enough to engage the solenoid so started tracing the circuit down.
Decided to check the neutral safety switch, found a little video on YouTube on it, ohm’ed it out and it did not ohm correctly. FML is what I was thinking. Relic Run is this week so I need to figure it out. Pulled the NSS, opened it up and cleaned the contacts. I’m not a fan of this type of work but I want my 80 running. Contacts looked fine, a little wear but nothing that seemed bad. Didn’t take a before pic but in this picture you can see some wear valleys on the inside contact on the arm, they were deeper and on both contacts. Sanded them down, cleaned the other copper strips and then rang out the wire loom itself because a lot of people have corroded wires and that is their problem. Everything rang out fine so put everything back together.
Tested the NSS again on the bench. Lo and behold it worked now. *insert sigh of relief* Threw it at the truck and it installed itself. Hopped in the truck and boom it started. Now I can start putting some miles on the new gears!
Did take the 80 for a little drive earlier today, when the truck did start, and it drives amazing. No more death wobble, thanks @Land Shark, no more driveline vibration from new driveshafts, and my speedometer is correct for the first time in years. Not happy about that because now the mileage will go up accurately
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- Thread starter
- #2,124
So I pulled Lynchburg out today to get a few shots at current ride height. Not too much squat but will have to work for now.
I did manage to get new OME springs in the back of Betsys sagging 4Runner. The age and drawer system sagged it down a bit. Ended up with 3" out of them, but hope they settle an inch.. sorry no pics of hers. I will try when the rain stops.
I did manage to get new OME springs in the back of Betsys sagging 4Runner. The age and drawer system sagged it down a bit. Ended up with 3" out of them, but hope they settle an inch.. sorry no pics of hers. I will try when the rain stops.
- Thread starter
- #2,126
Whipped ups some longer bump stop mounts. Drilled and tapped for the bump stop so I can add if needed.
A little paint and they will be ready to go. A little crude but will work.
2 x 4 .250 wall
A little paint and they will be ready to go. A little crude but will work.
2 x 4 .250 wall
Nothing as exciting as @matzell ‘s stuff just a little useless cubby spot action and a phone mount in the 80 to match the rest of my vehicles. We will clean that charging wiring ip later 
If those are anything like dobinsons they'll sag ~1" in time
Try a new product called Narrowtrax. It's a temporary (3 months or less) paint protection from pinstripes ect. Learned some lessons on my first application. Went to remove my painters tape and it pulled up the Narrowtrax. It dried faster than I was expecting. Doing the other side tomorrow night. It does go on fairly quickly.
I haven’t worked my way to the diff yet, but this is… well wow.
Can chat about what I think happened over tacos tomorrow, but a couple key observations / questions for the group:
- The inside of the housing that I can reach with my finger is - go figure - pretty marred it feels like there is a big chunk of of steel fused to the inside of the housing. I tapped at lightly with a chisel, but no budge.
- Should I be shopping for a new-to-me axle housing, or is this something a machine shop could bore out and refinish?
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Oh nooo! I won't be help with advice but looking forward to the discussion
- Thread starter
- #2,134
I left you a message. I am happy to swing by and take a quick look at it.
Rob and I did some bashing (always good to get @matzell 's blessing before you do too much bashing) with a 6 foot pry bar through the short side of the housing and diff to the other side, made a little progress, but gonna need a hole saw for some friction welded debris in the housing.
Got around to taking the case assembly apart and everything else off the old block. Cleaned and mounted the case assembly back up. I've never worked with RTV, but we had it barely squeezing out around all the exposed edges. Forgot to take close ups.
So as Rob and Beach know, the axle housing on the 60 is a loss. The heat from the… incident… warped the driver side rear spindle hence the unproductive bashing to get the axle shaft out from earlier in the week. Wish i’d fully realized this before I invested the hours of sweat and broken pullers to get the wheel bearing inner collars off and hole saw drilling to get the slag out, but you live / learn. Cut the left spindle to try and free the broken shaft and cut the right spindle to get a grip on the extra long socket extension bashed in to try and push the other shaft out. Slide hammers, more counter bashing, etc. — no joy. I even tried sliding in some bar stock, but that almost got permanently stuck too!
I think these pieces are gonna go to the scrapyard with the rest of the housing. I did pull off the pinion flange to use with the new diff housing in case the bolt patterns don’t match. Haven’t yet undressed the brake lines, swaybar, ubolts, handbrake cable etc.
The Jonas trip is to pick up a semi-float axle with an arb locker installed. It’s geared at 3.7. I’m presently at 4.1. Thinking about going up to 4.3, or at least regearing to keep 4.1. Would love to keep the diff and gears from the HJ, but with how stuck everything is into it, I suspect something is mashed up inside.
There are a few rumors of full float axles available based on the net I cast across mud and vendors. If one comes up at a decent price and distance and soon, and someone wants the arb locker axle from Jonas, could be yours!
Any thoughts from the group?
I think these pieces are gonna go to the scrapyard with the rest of the housing. I did pull off the pinion flange to use with the new diff housing in case the bolt patterns don’t match. Haven’t yet undressed the brake lines, swaybar, ubolts, handbrake cable etc.
The Jonas trip is to pick up a semi-float axle with an arb locker installed. It’s geared at 3.7. I’m presently at 4.1. Thinking about going up to 4.3, or at least regearing to keep 4.1. Would love to keep the diff and gears from the HJ, but with how stuck everything is into it, I suspect something is mashed up inside.
There are a few rumors of full float axles available based on the net I cast across mud and vendors. If one comes up at a decent price and distance and soon, and someone wants the arb locker axle from Jonas, could be yours!
Any thoughts from the group?
- Thread starter
- #2,139
Cut the blue line and try to get axle out.. You can always take the gears and swap them to the other diff. I think worse case you cut the tubes on the side of the diff to get axle out.
Total bummer for sure man.
I agree with Rob. Cut that sucker. May be able to free up your 3rd and maybe salvage it. Who knows
I agree with Rob. Cut that sucker. May be able to free up your 3rd and maybe salvage it. Who knows