What are you working on?

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I think Clifton said he has the special tool to push the seals in a bit farther
 
That's what sitting on my shelf. Im off this coming week, so should be able to get this done.

Marlin Inner seals are known to leak on the 80 for whatever reason. I do have the wits-end seal driver tool that allows you to set it a little deeper if there is a groove on your existing axle shaft. With the way the Marlin seal is designed you cannot drive it deeper. I just removed a leaking Marlin eco-seal and about to reinstall some I received from cruiser outfitters, so I have no real opinion on either style of inner seal.
 
Marlin Inner seals are known to leak on the 80 for whatever reason. I do have the wits-end seal driver tool that allows you to set it a little deeper if there is a groove on your existing axle shaft. With the way the Marlin seal is designed you cannot drive it deeper. I just removed a leaking Marlin eco-seal and about to reinstall some I received from cruiser outfitters, so I have no real opinion on either style of inner seal.

Dave told me he had the exact same experience with the marlin seals. Rob told me marlin or bust. Who do I believe???
 
Dave told me he had the exact same experience with the marlin seals. Rob told me marlin or bust. Who do I believe???

I've had the marlin seals on other toyota's and never had a problem with them, that's why I had them installed the first time the axle was rebuilt. But it's definitely documented here on MUD that Marlin inner front axle seals leak on an 80 front axle, at least on rigs that get wheeled.
 
Marlin Inner seals are known to leak on the 80 for whatever reason. I do have the wits-end seal driver tool that allows you to set it a little deeper if there is a groove on your existing axle shaft. With the way the Marlin seal is designed you cannot drive it deeper. I just removed a leaking Marlin eco-seal and about to reinstall some I received from cruiser outfitters, so I have no real opinion on either style of inner seal.
The seals i have now are from cruiser outfitters. So I'm trying the Marlin eco seal this time. This is the second seal from cruiser outfitters that has leaked. I am running chromoly axles too. So shouldn't have any wear issues.
 
The seals i have now are from cruiser outfitters. So I'm trying the Marlin eco seal this time. This is the second seal from cruiser outfitters that has leaked. I am running chromoly axles too. So shouldn't have any wear issues.

Chromoly will actually wear faster than OEM. OEM axles are hardened which is why they are prone to snapping. Chromoly is stronger but part of why, is its "softer" so it can flex and bend a bit. The con of being "softer" is seals and other surfaces that ride on the shaft will eat into the surface of the axle faster. I was reading about this specifically in relation to RCV axles
 
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Kinda an off shoot of the HAMO thread but got some old bushing pressed out and new bushings pressed in thanks to @Land Shark and his man cub. Two of the bushing were shot and the the castor correction bushings were not orientated the same. Hoping this will fix the front end wobble I’ve been getting.

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I do a light lube of gear oil.
Wheel bearing grease works better as it sits in the channel and stays put. Something is better than nothing, never want to put a seal in dry.
 
Wheel bearing grease works better as it sits in the channel and stays put. Something is better than nothing, never want to put a seal in dry.
Plus one on this^^^
 
Wheel bearing grease works better as it sits in the channel and stays put. Something is better than nothing, never want to put a seal in dry.
Wheel bearing grease now in inner axle seal channel. I wasn't to far from getting to it due to misplacing my fish scale last night. Beer and bourbon may have had something to do with the missing fish scale......
 
Was a niceish weekend to be working on the truck. Used my new “parts washer” to finish cleaning up front axle knuckle stuff. Added some FROR knuckle studs and started on the hub studs. In the process of running a tap down all the hub threads to clean them out.

Added a little protection to bottom side of front axle, since I had to cut off the drain plug ring. I took precautions to prevent the axle from warping so crossing my fingers.

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Also noticed some substantial drips from the “temp” rear heat delete that got performed at Fall trail ride a few years ago. So I replaced those hoses with a pre-formed hose I’d picked up from Land Cruiser Phil shortly after that temp fix was installed. While I was there, decided to replace the heater valve as well. All was pretty easy besides having to climb into the engine bay to reach the hoses where they attach to the firewall. 😒

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Waiting on driveshafts so will be feeling the crunch when they are done.
 
Not really any good pics but having some fun w the blue parts truck.

Pulled off the driver caliper and put it on my green truck. New brake fluid in the green truck.
Fixed window and lock issue on the parts truck by actually plugging in the disconnected window/lock controls lol. That was an easy fix
Tested all lights, brake booster, and got a startup video of the truck. Continuing with disassembly and inventory of good parts.
 
Slowly fine tuning the 200 with a dual battery system and some total chaos ucas to free up movement on the front getting rid of factory style torsion bushings. They hold up better but I don't mind the upkeep of regular bushings for the tradeoff on resistance.
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Slowly fine tuning the 200 with a dual battery system and some total chaos ucas to free up movement on the front getting rid of factory style torsion bushings. They hold up better but I don't mind the upkeep of regular bushings for the tradeoff on resistance.
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FANCY....be sure to lube those uni-balls after every wash and outing. They can get stiff.
 
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