I bought an electric cooler to use with my camper, and later realized it works on 12v also, so I figured I'd try to make it work all the time. I've searched, but a lot of the builds were way more serious than I needed. I don't plan on adding a 2nd battery (unless it's required?), and I don't have plans to add any other powered items (no RTT, no ARB inflater or anything like that). Is there a basic, dummy-level list of parts I need to make it work?
What are the basics needed to power a 12v fridge with solar?
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Any basic solar generator (battery) should work. Bluetti, Delta, Goal Zero...any of them. Solar input when the sun is out, battery reserve when it isn't. You don't have to modify the truck to make one work, and they come in handy when the power goes out at home.
75qt Dometic fridge/freezer. I have dual battery set up in my 100, no issues what so ever, fun job actually putting it altogether, nothing terribly complicated. In my wife's 200 just a single battery (but it's the biggest X-treme batt from Batteries Plus +, Its like a cranking battery and a deep cycle in one). We just use that single battery on trips when we take her whip, no issues ever. Just as long as you start it every 2-3 days and drive a little you will be fine. I also keep a NOCO jump pack as a backup, never had to use it. Just throwing some options out there.
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What 2nd battery mount did you go with? And is it easy enough to make the cargo 12v plug always on?
I always have a jump pack, but I just replaced my battery with the factory type last month, not sure how long it'll last keeping the fridge running. Good news is I think the outgoing battery was fine (optima red top), but I was getting $7k of work done and out of town so I got a new battery anyway, so I can use it as my 2nd battery.
I always have a jump pack, but I just replaced my battery with the factory type last month, not sure how long it'll last keeping the fridge running. Good news is I think the outgoing battery was fine (optima red top), but I was getting $7k of work done and out of town so I got a new battery anyway, so I can use it as my 2nd battery.
Slee's 2nd battery tray kit: SLEE - 2nd Battery Tray / ARB Compressor Mount - '98-07 Land Cruiser / LX470 - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sok0037/
I also fabricated a Group 31 tray & hold down for the main battery location (but now you can also get this kit from Slee) to increase Ah/Wh of the system. Ideally, you'd want the smaller battery, the auxiliary battery location in a UZJ100, to serve as the starting battery and then utilize the larger capacity Group 31 for accessories like fridge/freezer, compressor, etc.
Having said that, the Odyssey batteries (Group 31 main + Group 35 auxiliary/2nd battery location) has served me fine for the past 15+ years powering added accessories including a fridge/freeze. Typically, and it depends on ambient temps, how often you get into the fridge as well as how full/not the fridge is with contents, etc., I get between 24-72 hours w/o re-charging the auxiliary battery via alternator or solar input.
Many different strategies to solve your problem and the above is just one.
I also fabricated a Group 31 tray & hold down for the main battery location (but now you can also get this kit from Slee) to increase Ah/Wh of the system. Ideally, you'd want the smaller battery, the auxiliary battery location in a UZJ100, to serve as the starting battery and then utilize the larger capacity Group 31 for accessories like fridge/freezer, compressor, etc.
Having said that, the Odyssey batteries (Group 31 main + Group 35 auxiliary/2nd battery location) has served me fine for the past 15+ years powering added accessories including a fridge/freeze. Typically, and it depends on ambient temps, how often you get into the fridge as well as how full/not the fridge is with contents, etc., I get between 24-72 hours w/o re-charging the auxiliary battery via alternator or solar input.
Many different strategies to solve your problem and the above is just one.
geez, guys, OP is asking for simple...
OP, just draw 2 wires from the starter battery to the back, add an inline fuse near the battery, put a matching connector at the end of the wires and you're good for a while.
Later you can worry about draining your battery etc but for now, just keep an eye on things and you'll be fine.
OP, just draw 2 wires from the starter battery to the back, add an inline fuse near the battery, put a matching connector at the end of the wires and you're good for a while.
Later you can worry about draining your battery etc but for now, just keep an eye on things and you'll be fine.
There isn't simple when it comes to appliance electrical draw down on battery/batteries...and charging AGM, etc., using the alternator.
Edited to add: "...and charging AGM, etc., using the alternator"
Edited to add: "...and charging AGM, etc., using the alternator"
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What fridge is it you have?
If you want your fridge in your vehicle to run all the time, you’ll need a few things:
-solar power or shore power
-some sort of dual purpose lead acid/agm battery OR portable power station
Shore power it’s no problem since it will be charging continuously
With solar, it’s is a fluctuating rule when it comes to achieving this, dependent on ambient temps, fridge set temp, fridge size, fridge efficiency or lack thereof, insulation, solar panel size and efficiency, sun exposure, charge controller.
My general rule is that if you are parked with open sky, 100 watts of permanent roof mounted solar, charging a battery via mppt to a minimum 300wh battery; you can keep a 40-60L efficient (avg 1-1.4AH) fridge, set at fridge temp, running indefinitely with ambient temp under 90 degrees high. All this assuming everything is installed and performing as intended. Damaged solar panels, crappy underperforming solar controllers, incorrect wiring and layout, inefficient fridges, battery capacity degradation and other factors can affect this.
If you want your fridge in your vehicle to run all the time, you’ll need a few things:
-solar power or shore power
-some sort of dual purpose lead acid/agm battery OR portable power station
Shore power it’s no problem since it will be charging continuously
With solar, it’s is a fluctuating rule when it comes to achieving this, dependent on ambient temps, fridge set temp, fridge size, fridge efficiency or lack thereof, insulation, solar panel size and efficiency, sun exposure, charge controller.
My general rule is that if you are parked with open sky, 100 watts of permanent roof mounted solar, charging a battery via mppt to a minimum 300wh battery; you can keep a 40-60L efficient (avg 1-1.4AH) fridge, set at fridge temp, running indefinitely with ambient temp under 90 degrees high. All this assuming everything is installed and performing as intended. Damaged solar panels, crappy underperforming solar controllers, incorrect wiring and layout, inefficient fridges, battery capacity degradation and other factors can affect this.
Lots of good info here ... and lots of ways to do it.
As OP called it a 'cooler', and not a fridge/freezer with Buetooth or dual compressors or the like, +1 the simplest solution is what @saucebox said - get one of those 'power boxes' - Bluetti, Jackery, GoalZero, etc.
No parts list required.
It can charge by the cig lighter while driving or solar while base camped.
Anything more than that will definitely require one of the setups outlined above.
As OP called it a 'cooler', and not a fridge/freezer with Buetooth or dual compressors or the like, +1 the simplest solution is what @saucebox said - get one of those 'power boxes' - Bluetti, Jackery, GoalZero, etc.
No parts list required.
It can charge by the cig lighter while driving or solar while base camped.
Anything more than that will definitely require one of the setups outlined above.
I've had a dual battery setup for probably 5 years now, but it's an expensive and more complicated route to take. I power a permanently installed fridge, the radio equipment, and enough charge ports to keep an army of passengers happy.
If I had to do it again, I'd probably start here: . Some of these power stations/boxes will take way more charge cycles than your standard underhood AGM. It's also not an inexpensive solution, but IMO a big gain in flexibility, complexity, etc.
I've already had to replace the second battery once (at ~$400), and I don't think that would be the case for a portable unit.
If I had to do it again, I'd probably start here: . Some of these power stations/boxes will take way more charge cycles than your standard underhood AGM. It's also not an inexpensive solution, but IMO a big gain in flexibility, complexity, etc.
I've already had to replace the second battery once (at ~$400), and I don't think that would be the case for a portable unit.
What battery isolator are you using in this setup?
