What are real-world results from Supercharging? (1 Viewer)

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I have a 95 with SC and really like it. I don't have any quantitative data to back up any of the follow qualitative remarks but....
-I lived in Colorado for 3 years and pulled a m416 up any pass I wanted at 70 mph. I never had any heat issues. My rig has Slee front and rear bumpers, sliders, Warn M12000, OME, with 33" duratracs.
- A SC has no utility around town between stop signs. None.
- I took a 3000mi camping trip up to Montana and back through NW colorado back into telluride, ouray area. I wheeled it up immogene, engineer and other similar passes and had no overheat issues.
- I get about 12 mpg in town and around 15 loaded with camping gear on the highway.
- I do run premium fuel.
- bottom line - if you have the money and want to get where you are going a little faster on the highway, get one.

I like mine but probably wouldn't drop the cash to install one in hindsight.
Jeff
 
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Spent lots of time debating this subject.
I have a 4,5 EFI with a442F auto. Changed Tyres from 31" to 33". Loved the off-road change hated the on-road performance. Hunting gears 3/4 all the time when cruising at 60-70mph. Fuel consumption became terrible.

Options:
Regear
SC
Turbo
Change gearbox to one with more gears.

Ok so living in South Africa we are not as lucky with TRD equipment. Yes I can import and that doubles cost.
My options custom Vortex SC with great results. 40% gains at moderate boost. Drove a friends and the 80 was responsive, cruised comfortably without re-gear on 33". Fuel economy was better 0-60 was fun.
Price was to rich for me.

I then opted for turbo with moderate boost. Using std manifold with J-pipes to mount turbo. Running at 5psi boost.
Dyno before 109kw on wheels after 212kw and just under 500nm of torque.
Effectively doubled the performance.

End result when you floor it the fun factor is huge.
Yet I can still crawl obstacles in LR as I used to. Turbo spool up is at 1900rpm and serious power starts at 2800.

Open road driving is such a pleasure. No gear hunting. Feather fuel pedal at 60-70 with boost running at 0PSi maintains speed with slight inclines without giving more fuel. On hills just push gas no gear back just accelerates.
Fuel consumption improved when I drive economically. Especially when doing open road cruising for trips. In town the power is a little addictive.

Totally different vehicle, o yes and overtaking is no problem any longer.

4500efi should have left the factory turbo charged like the Supra.

Lastly have not timed my 0-60 since the turbo but I can say getting there is a damn side quicker.
 
Iv'e been running mine with a blower for well over a decade and I can't really remember what it was like in the old days.

I can tell you that two years ago the drive belt idler pulley took a hike on me at ~65 mph pulling my Kimberley. I was ~80 miles from home. After I unwrapped the shreaded belt from the water pump hub and replaced a ripped transmission cooler hose and ~6 quarts of ATF I drove it home without a blower belt. It was way slow but it got the job done.
 
ZA80, thanks for the post! Could you please give us a rundown on what you bought, where you got it, cost, installation details? Thanks - awesome feedback!

Muddy1
 
Iv'e been running mine with a blower for well over a decade and I can't really remember what it was like in the old days.

I can tell you that two years ago the drive belt idler pulley took a hike on me at ~65 mph pulling my Kimberley. I was ~80 miles from home. After I unwrapped the shreaded belt from the water pump hub and replaced a ripped transmission cooler hose and ~6 quarts of ATF I drove it home without a blower belt. It was way slow but it got the job done.

This seems to happen every so often. I may wrap the soft Trans hoses with something a little stronger to prevent exactly that. I don't normally keep that much ATF on hand.
 
I don't carry that much either. Beno drove up from Albuquerque with a bunch for me.

The way that belt let go I doubt that a stronger hose would have stood a chance. It very well could have wiped out the fan blade, radiator and beat up the hood. I was lucky.
 
I will find time to do write up on my build and post a link here. Build criteria were rather specific and reliability of utmost importance.
Traveling in Africa Land Cruiser spares availability is good but aftermarket or modified equipment is tough to get. Therefore some items that would be specified would seem over the top and pedantic.

Overlanding in small groups with my wife and 2 daughters safety and reliability is of huge importance.
 
Yeah if I was going to do it again, I might go up one turbo size, I wish there was something between the two. lol.

I went with a BW 7670 which is a
57.2mm Comp Inducer
76mm Comp Exducer
70mm Turbine

The GTX35's are

GTX3576
58mm Comp Inducer
76.6mm Comp Exducer
68mm Turbine

GTX3582
62.5mm Comp Inducer
82.5mm Comp Exducer
68mm Turbine

The GTX3582 will flow about 75lbs/min of air while the BW7670 only flows 64lbs/min and the GTX3576 only about 62-63lbs/min , I think the 4.5L could benefit from a little more air flow.

But I really can't complain at all about what I have and I don't need any more power. If I come across a little more money I will have the exhaust upgraded to 3 or 3.5" though.





GT35 turbo 3" exhaust
 
I don't carry that much either. Beno drove up from Albuquerque with a bunch for me.

The way that belt let go I doubt that a stronger hose would have stood a chance. It very well could have wiped out the fan blade, radiator and beat up the hood. I was lucky.

Wow, this almost needs a dedicated thread. Belt catastrophes.
 
The worst part is it was trying to tell me something and I was not wanting to listen to it. I heard a light rumble that I decided I'd look for when we got home. Had I snooped I likely would have discovered it in time to simply pull the belt and proceed home without boost. I would have gotten home ~4 hours sooner and without an ATF bath......:doh:


Oddly enough the truck coasted to a stop in the ONE TEENSY PATCH of cell coverage on NM 550 for about 15 miles.
 
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I can tell you that two years ago the drive belt idler pulley took a hike on me at ~65 mph pulling my Kimberley. I was ~80 miles from home. After I unwrapped the shreaded belt from the water pump hub and replaced a ripped transmission cooler hose and ~6 quarts of ATF I drove it home without a blower belt. It was way slow but it got the job done.

Wow! Almost the exact same scenario happened to me 2 weeks ago but in addition to it snapping my transmission cooler hose, it somehow also took out the front drive belt. It snapped the transmission hose right near the hard line so I was able to cut it and reconnect since there was enough slack. I was planning to put new belts this weekend and was going to just remove the drive belt tensioner pulley instead of replacing; bad idea?

Cheers,
Salue
 
If you are referring to the Supercharger idler/tensioner assembly you have to have that intact in order to drive the blower.
 
I'm referring to the pulley that's part of the alternator dual belt system. I checked and it appears to have seized. Heard, it doesn't hurt to just remove that than replace.

Salue
 
[QU OTE="1FZj80, post: 9436559, member: 12744"]
The TC guys think they are inefficient, the normally aspirated guys think they make you overheat and I'm a happy camper with my no longer available 6.5psi supercharger and seven injectors.[/Quote
 
Regearing can present greater results from what I'm gathering in this thread(which means nothing).

I can post vaguely accurate 0-60 times(stop watch on dash)on the exact same vehicle and setup, nearly back to back if anyone cares to wager on the results?

4.10s in the morning, 5.29s by early afternoon.
 

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