Reachej
GOLD Star
Can someone tell me what this plate and these empty threaded holes and that bearing are?
What are these please? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Reachej
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the two empty threaded holes are for the PAIR system on the early 1FZ. The other thing isn't a bearing its your timing chain tensioner.
@Reachej : Are you're trying to find the source of the oil leak(s)??
IMO you first need to wash off the front of the engine. Most common large leak is from the oil pump cover located on the lower
timing cover, to the left of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer (lower front center of the engine). The thick layer of oily crud on the front of the engine is one clue. Other common leak sources are the valve cover gasket and the distributor O-ring (where the distributor slides into the engine/head).
IME it would be unusual for a leak to occur from the timing chain tensioner (where you see wet oil) unless someone had that out at some point in the past and forgot to install a new metal crush-type gasket when they put it back in. Leaks can develop, rarely IME, between the timing chain cover and the block but you won't know until the engine is cleaned off. Once that is done you can better watch to see where the oil leaks reappear.
Engine washing Tips: It's safest to do by hand but not practical so here's my method if doing it yourself with a garden hose. First cover the distributor with a plastic bag and do not spray water directly at it because there are a couple of open holes on the side facing the engine. Better not to spray directly at the alternator either. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir cap and oil filler cap are both on tight and that the transmission and engine oil dipsticks are fully inserted, doesn't hurt to put a plastic bag over those.
Do not spray water at the very top of the engine (valve cover) as that's where the spark plugs sit inside vertical tubes (under the plastic covers, center top of the engine) because if water fills those up your engine won't start until the water is removed or dries out. Avoid spraying high pressure water directly at wire bundles or connections and IMO do not spray the firewall behind the engine as the factory insulation (thin cloth covered fiberglass board) becomes very brittle with age and can be easily damaged (blown off) with high pressure water.
Post up another photo or two showing the front and lower front of the engine looking down a bit toward the belts and harmonic balancer (large pulley for the belts).
HTH's
IMO you first need to wash off the front of the engine. Most common large leak is from the oil pump cover located on the lower
timing cover, to the left of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer (lower front center of the engine). The thick layer of oily crud on the front of the engine is one clue. Other common leak sources are the valve cover gasket and the distributor O-ring (where the distributor slides into the engine/head).
IME it would be unusual for a leak to occur from the timing chain tensioner (where you see wet oil) unless someone had that out at some point in the past and forgot to install a new metal crush-type gasket when they put it back in. Leaks can develop, rarely IME, between the timing chain cover and the block but you won't know until the engine is cleaned off. Once that is done you can better watch to see where the oil leaks reappear.
Engine washing Tips: It's safest to do by hand but not practical so here's my method if doing it yourself with a garden hose. First cover the distributor with a plastic bag and do not spray water directly at it because there are a couple of open holes on the side facing the engine. Better not to spray directly at the alternator either. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir cap and oil filler cap are both on tight and that the transmission and engine oil dipsticks are fully inserted, doesn't hurt to put a plastic bag over those.
Do not spray water at the very top of the engine (valve cover) as that's where the spark plugs sit inside vertical tubes (under the plastic covers, center top of the engine) because if water fills those up your engine won't start until the water is removed or dries out. Avoid spraying high pressure water directly at wire bundles or connections and IMO do not spray the firewall behind the engine as the factory insulation (thin cloth covered fiberglass board) becomes very brittle with age and can be easily damaged (blown off) with high pressure water.
Post up another photo or two showing the front and lower front of the engine looking down a bit toward the belts and harmonic balancer (large pulley for the belts).
HTH's
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I have a 1993 with the PAIR system intact. Those two holes are not associated with the pair system. From that angle my 1993 looks just like the pic only cleaner. My guess would be some attachment for another world market.
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