Welding Tips And Help

[spressomon]

I need to TIG an aluminum fairing to my roof rack along with 3 plate mounts for a Fiamma awning to the same roof rack.

It would be a ton easier for positioning if I could tack the fairing and the awning mounting plates to the roof rack then remove the rack for TIGing on the bench. However I've read TIGing is a no-no on a vehicle (high freq start) due to the risk of damaging sensitive electronics.

All material is 1/8".

What say the experts?

 

[fabriwelder]

TIG welding on vehicle...

Well I am no expert on this one for sure..... They used to say the welding on vehicles period was dangerous for the electronics, but if you disconnected the negative battery terminal it would be ok. I always laughed at that one.

Electricity will take the path of least resistance. If you have your ground clamp close to where you are welding, on the same piece, I would probably do it. Course I have made a mistake or two in my time.

 

[spressomon]

A moment: I just realized the entire roof rack mounting system sits on 1/8" rubber. Just answered my own question.

 

[machinisttx]

The first thing would be to know what kind of steel you are welding on. Some buckets are covered with an abrasion resistant steel.

For mild steel, I would use 7018. The current would depend on the size of the rod, so 150A would be about right for 5/32 rod. Make sure you have the proper joint design with the right root gap or angle to insure 100% penetration. For filet welds the throat should be about 1.4 times the width of the leg. Heat won't make mild steel brittle, but let it cool slowly.

I have no idea if this bucket is even original to the machine, and consequently, no idea of what steel was used in it's construction. That's why I'm a little leery of just welding away on it and making it brittle. I could spark test it with a grinder, but that's not going to tell me a lot more than a vague idea of carbon content. The machine is a 68 or 69 model case if I remember correctly.

I guess I'll have to find the welding book I have around here somewhere to see what kind of chamfer angle I should use. I was figuring on either .250" x 45 degrees or .375" x 45 degrees.

 

[Pin_Head]

If after doing the grinder test there is any doubt about it being mild steel, you could preheat to 300F for insurance. It helps for low carbon alloys and won't hurt for mild steel.

 

[fabriwelder]

Bucket Weld

I have no idea if this bucket is even original to the machine, and consequently, no idea of what steel was used in it's construction. That's why I'm a little leery of just welding away on it and making it brittle. I could spark test it with a grinder, but that's not going to tell me a lot more than a vague idea of carbon content. The machine is a 68 or 69 model case if I remember correctly.

I guess I'll have to find the welding book I have around here somewhere to see what kind of chamfer angle I should use. I was figuring on either .250" x 45 degrees or .375" x 45 degrees.

So, I did a little research for you. The buckets on 'hoes are usually corten or AR.
Repairs seem to be made with a high tensile strength rod, i.e. 80xx, 90xx, or even 110xx, for a root pass. &018 for a fill on the way out and 7018 or higher for the cap. Preheat. I don't think the chamfer angle matters too much, as long as you can get into the joint with whatever size rod.....

 

[Pin_Head]

You want a low hydrogen weld, so use xx18 series rods that are either newly opened or stored heated.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Hey Fabriwelder, what SMAW rod would you suggest for welding sheet metal (like 20 gauge) to angle iron (1/8th inch thick)?

I've read that E6014 1/16th inch rods are good for sheet metal.

Thanks!

Alan

 

[fabriwelder]

Sheet Metal

Hi All:

Hey Fabriwelder, what SMAW rod would you suggest for welding sheet metal (like 20 gauge) to angle iron (1/8th inch thick)?

I've read that E6014 1/16th inch rods are good for sheet metal.

Thanks!

Alan

Hi, Alan.
Go with 6013. You can even do 7018 if you can keep your heat down. If you can get it into a downhand position I would just run 7018. Otherwise I would use some 6013. 6010 would work also, but penetrates more than the 6013. Keep your heat on the thicker material and just let the puddle touch the sheet metal.

 

[Pin_Head]

If you can weld 20ga sheet with an AC buzz box, you are on your way to being a real weldolero like those guys that can weld beer cans and gum wrapper foil together.

It took me a while to learn how to successfully weld 16ga tube to 1/8 plate with 6013 and DCEN and 20 ga is considerably thinner. I was ready to throw in the towel and TIG weld them, but I had a lot of them to do and I didn't want to blow that much argon.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

If you can weld 20ga sheet with an AC buzz box, you are on your way to being a real weldolero like those guys that can weld beer cans and gum wrapper foil together.

It took me a while to learn how to successfully weld 16ga tube to 1/8 plate with 6013 and DCEN and 20 ga is considerably thinner. I was ready to throw in the towel and TIG weld them, but I had a lot of them to do and I didn't want to blow that much argon.

Pin_Head/Fab... It's tough for sure.. I run 3/32" -6010 or 6013 at around 40 to 50 amps and a fast travel speed... Whatever combo maintains the most stable arc. I try to lap the material to help create a thicker base whenever possible to help with excessive melt through and /or leading to burn-through.

J

 

[fabriwelder]

Pin_Head/Fab... It's tough for sure.. I run 3/32" -6010 or 6013 at around 40 to 50 amps and a fast travel speed... Whatever combo maintains the most stable arc. I try to lap the material to help create a thicker base whenever possible to help with excessive melt through and /or leading to burn-through.

J

Yeah, really some MIG would be better. TIG would be great, but wow. That is a lot of gas and wire. And tungtsten. I may be a dipper......

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Yeah, really some MIG would be better. TIG would be great, but wow. That is a lot of gas and wire. And tungtsten. I may be a dipper......

MIG would definitely be my first choice for easy sheetmetal work. I too "dip" occasionally anymore.. It pisses me off to no end when I do. Just not as finessed as I used to be. But, can still walk a #10 or #12 cup with a gas lens pretty darn good. HA!

J

 

[Pin_Head]

I used to dip, but I gave it up along with cigarettes.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I used to dip, but I gave it up along with cigarettes.

I used to smoke and dip while welding, sometimes both at the same time. I too have quit both, GOOD FOR US.. MORE MONEY FOR THE CRUISERS and playtime!
However, people say I used to be easier to get along with...

J

 

[angerhater]

I only smoke after sex........but then I splash some water on it and it stops....i dont do cigarettes...lol

thanx a bunch for the insights everyone, I am a "tool collector/ hack of all trades" and looking into getting a welder , I plan to make a roof rack and both bumpers. i have a set of marlin sliders to get me started...its great to have you all available to help.....thanx again

 

[wagonteeth]

I have two questions-

First is that a few years back my wife and I were at Wally world and we passed through the tools and they had a Campbell hausfield Mig welder and I said in general, that I needed a welder. Well when Christmas rolled around, I had that one under the tree. So question is- is this welder worth using for anything? I contemplated making a roof rack with it. It's two heat ranges, 60 and 80 I believe and 110V.

My brother in law suggested I buy some non flux core wire and a gas bottle (argon or Oxygen).

second part is somewhat related. The roof of my FJ80 has a hole from a CB antenna. Is thre anyway of welding it up without removing the headliner on the inside? Could I stuff the hole with asbestos cloth or similar and weld a plug in, or is it just too risky. My other option is to plug the hole with epoxy weld and bedline the whole roof, including the roof rack holes.

 

[rustybucket]

Try and avoid building a square trailer. You want the best fuel economy possible. If possible, make sure the trailer rear side has a taper that allows the air stream to reduce turbulence. This will increase your fuel economy of your vehicle.

Here are some ideas other companies have produced.

http://itssa.net/automotivedesign/

 

[kiarajeckson]

It's great Fabriwelder..You have variety of knowledge about welding thing..

 

[fabriwelder]

Kletzenklueffer.....

I have two questions-

First is that a few years back my wife and I were at Wally world and we passed through the tools and they had a Campbell hausfield Mig welder and I said in general, that I needed a welder. Well when Christmas rolled around, I had that one under the tree. So question is- is this welder worth using for anything? I contemplated making a roof rack with it. It's two heat ranges, 60 and 80 I believe and 110V.

My brother in law suggested I buy some non flux core wire and a gas bottle (argon or Oxygen).

second part is somewhat related. The roof of my FJ80 has a hole from a CB antenna. Is thre anyway of welding it up without removing the headliner on the inside? Could I stuff the hole with asbestos cloth or similar and weld a plug in, or is it just too risky. My other option is to plug the hole with epoxy weld and bedline the whole roof, including the roof rack holes.

Your little welder would probably be fine for sheetmetal. Body panel replacement and the like. Flux core wire seems to dig a little more than a similar solid wire. You would want to make sure that the welder is set up to use gas, most of the lower end welders are not, they will only use flux cored wire. So really it depends on what you want to do with it.

Just a single wall roof? If it was a double wall I would say stuff it and weld it if you wanted. Go slow, take your time. If its a single wall...weldinf spatter has a mind of it's own. If you could get it stuffed adequately you would most likely be ok. Stuffing through that small of a hole is going to be difficult and all it takes is one ball of fire...