- Thread starter
- #521
Fuel cut circuit is fully functional and I can watch it activate on the A/F gauge. Computer, tach sensor, vacuum sensor, all that jazz. I’ve only gotten rid of the EGR and AI systems.
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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Fuel cut circuit is fully functional and I can watch it activate on the A/F gauge. Computer, tach sensor, vacuum sensor, all that jazz. I’ve only gotten rid of the EGR and AI systems.
Dang, I had '64 Galaxie 2D for 20 years. Converted it to EFI the last 5.
If ECC and ICS are all good, any exhaust leaks?
I can’t remember when you made the carb adjustments - prior to changes to engine? I wonder if with the changes, your secondaries are opening too early and that is why you are feeling bogged down at times (and maybe why you are getting unburnt fuel)?
- Thread starter
- #524
I definitely have an exhaust leak. I suspect it’s where the downpipe flanges to the catalytic converter (which is just a test pipe I welded into the catalytic converter flanges). I bet the leak was from manhandling the downpipe to get the manifolds seated.
My secondary is still a little faster opening as well, yes. Carb was rebuilt by me last November (?) and was in service daily this whole time. A/F gauge reads appx 12 when the secondary opens.
Wild theory, stay with me here: excessive fuel from the secondary being open goes into the downpipe where it combines with excess air from the exhaust leak. Add heat and kaboom? A couple holes I can shoot in that theory though … without a catalytic converter the exhaust system isn’t going to retain that much heat. I don’t know if it’s enough to ignite. Also, why isn’t the excess fuel from the secondary igniting in the cylinder?
I’ll keep scratching my head.
The '64 Galaxie (2D) is my all time favorite mid60's muscler. (I might have mentioned this a few times
)
RevISK
SILVER Star
Wait, so what do you think the leak(s) are doing/causing?
My pipes are Swiss cheese after the O2 sensors and other than sounding cool I’m wondering what I’m taking away from my performance machine?
Educate.
My pipes are Swiss cheese after the O2 sensors and other than sounding cool I’m wondering what I’m taking away from my performance machine?
Educate.
- Thread starter
- #527
@zeeklafreek @Skniper I love those Galaxies as well. There was one near my house in high school that I saw frequently. I’m not an expert but I’d guess 63-66, 2dr, forest green, and a little bit of a “gasser” think going on with some lift in the back end.
@RevISK you talk to me?? I think if I burnt fuel is traveling down the exhaust pipe, mixes with fresh air being sucked in through a leak, and the pipe is hot enough … it could cause detonation and the decel pops I’m hearing. “After fire” I think is the technical name. Exhaust backfire.
@RevISK you talk to me?? I think if I burnt fuel is traveling down the exhaust pipe, mixes with fresh air being sucked in through a leak, and the pipe is hot enough … it could cause detonation and the decel pops I’m hearing. “After fire” I think is the technical name. Exhaust backfire.
- Thread starter
- #528
Here’s a goofy problem … rear left blinker stopped blinking.
Swapped bulbs left to right. Left doesn’t blink, but the right does. Swapped bulbs back. Left still doesn’t blink, right still does. Not the bulb.
Chased continuity through the connectors behind the cargo panel. 0.84 ohms from the bulb socket center pin to the point where the two blinker wires splice together - meaning a point where I KNOW there is good voltage, since that point feeds the rear right blinker that works just fine. 1.1 ohms from the bulb socket to a random body ground. OK, so no broken wires.
Checked voltage at the bulb socket, and it appears to have voltage. My meter is not fast enough to register the 12V spike for each blink, but it does jump around erratically which I know happens when a variable voltage is on the test leads.
But the bulb still doesn’t blink. I’m the electrical guy and this should be an easy problem, but I’m stumped. Possibly there’s a voltage drop somewhere and what’s getting to the socket is not enough voltage to turn the bulb on. LEDs do be like that. And you’d think that would show up with a very high resistance on either the positive or ground.
Anybody ever have trouble with the bulb sockets in these tail light housings? Yes I did try turning the blinker on and wiggling the bulb. No luck.
Swapped bulbs left to right. Left doesn’t blink, but the right does. Swapped bulbs back. Left still doesn’t blink, right still does. Not the bulb.
Chased continuity through the connectors behind the cargo panel. 0.84 ohms from the bulb socket center pin to the point where the two blinker wires splice together - meaning a point where I KNOW there is good voltage, since that point feeds the rear right blinker that works just fine. 1.1 ohms from the bulb socket to a random body ground. OK, so no broken wires.
Checked voltage at the bulb socket, and it appears to have voltage. My meter is not fast enough to register the 12V spike for each blink, but it does jump around erratically which I know happens when a variable voltage is on the test leads.
But the bulb still doesn’t blink. I’m the electrical guy and this should be an easy problem, but I’m stumped. Possibly there’s a voltage drop somewhere and what’s getting to the socket is not enough voltage to turn the bulb on. LEDs do be like that. And you’d think that would show up with a very high resistance on either the positive or ground.
Anybody ever have trouble with the bulb sockets in these tail light housings? Yes I did try turning the blinker on and wiggling the bulb. No luck.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Did you try an incandescent bulb just for grins?
Is the bulb seating (making contact) correctly in the housing? Had this issue on an other vehicle.
Wiggeling didn't work for me in that case either.
Other thing that once worked, shoved an extra ground wire in the housing.
Wiggeling didn't work for me in that case either.
Other thing that once worked, shoved an extra ground wire in the housing.
- Thread starter
- #531
@RevISK I don’t have an incandescent bulb to try sadly!
@cruiser86 The bulb does feel like it’s seating correctly, but it may not be. Like I said I think I have power to the center contact. Did you just shove the ground wire along the outside of the socket?
I would like to take the socket out of the housing but it appears they cast the plastic around it so removal would be destructive. Anybody ever do this?
@cruiser86 The bulb does feel like it’s seating correctly, but it may not be. Like I said I think I have power to the center contact. Did you just shove the ground wire along the outside of the socket?
I would like to take the socket out of the housing but it appears they cast the plastic around it so removal would be destructive. Anybody ever do this?
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
In my experience with the power to the rear of 60's is the small wires suffer from voltage drop. I use a powered trailer wiring adapter to overcome this even with LED trailer lights there was a lack of voltage to function properly. Drag out the multimeter and verify voltage. Mine was somewhere in the 8.5-9 volt at the back of my 60.
Casey..
Casey..
RevISK
SILVER Star
This was kind of why I suggested an incandescent bulb as a checking device. I guess they do make test lights but whatever.
- Thread starter
- #534
My problem is that I don’t have an analog voltmeter. With the flasher going from 12V to zero, back and forth the digital acts confused. Either an analog meter you could see how high each ping is was.
What’s interesting is that the signal for both rear blinkers - the wire carrying the positive voltage from the flasher module - comes to the back of the truck right under the window washer bag and splits. The loom for the right side is much longer, having to go through a rubber grommet and under the truck, all the way over to the other side. The wire run from the split point to the left blinkers (the one that doesn’t work) is about 12”. So I know I have good voltage within 12” of the bulb socket.
I should measure the reverse or tail light voltage though, just to get an idea of the general health of the harness that runs to the back. Good idea.
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
Is there a trailer light adapter in line with the rear taillight harness?
- Thread starter
- #536
There was when I got the truck a few years ago. That junk is always the first to go, and while I was in there I took a good look at the wires. All seemed ok.
Called the Napa by my house and they have a cheap analog voltmeter in stock. About to head that way and buckle down on this issue again.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Was there wire splicer things from the trailer wiring? Mine had them, I hate those things.
Stab connectors
Stab connectors
- Thread starter
- #538
Scotch locks, and yes. I removed them and wrapped the exposed areas.
- Thread starter
- #539
Fixed.
Problem:
I bought an analog voltmeter from a nearby Napa for $25 and it showed 2V at the bulb socket. Chased it upstream until I had 12V. Completely worth the $25.
Cause:
That’s daylight through the real wheel well.
Solution:
Depin the connector, clean up with 400 grit sandpaper, reassemble. Blinkers work great now. This will be in need of a more permanent long term solution eventually … but that is not today, or this year. And probably not next year either!
Problem:
I bought an analog voltmeter from a nearby Napa for $25 and it showed 2V at the bulb socket. Chased it upstream until I had 12V. Completely worth the $25.
Cause:
That’s daylight through the real wheel well.
Solution:
Depin the connector, clean up with 400 grit sandpaper, reassemble. Blinkers work great now. This will be in need of a more permanent long term solution eventually … but that is not today, or this year. And probably not next year either!
Nice work,
