***Weber Carb*** Adjustment Thread (1 Viewer)

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Sorry for the loong delay in getting back. I did the test and the only thing that happened was a small slow down in rpm-prob because the ether cooled the carb down. I adjusted the fast idle and it seems to be good now. Thanks for all the input, ty

Negative. When spraying the ether, any change in RPM indicates a vacuum leak at the point you are spraying. Th e vacuum leak is pulling the ether into the intake system where it blends with the air/fuel mixture thus changing engine RPM.

Chris
 
Wow, Sounds like I need to put in some smaller bolts on the carb. What size works? Just cut off 1/4"? Also, what gaskets work well when I replace them? Any tips on where the gaskets should be placed. IIRC, the original ones were thin paper and went between all the metal spacers. Thanks! ty
 
One more question...does anyone ever put sealant/silicone on the gaskets? Thanks much, ty

i have put ultra-copper on the base gaskets before....but...only when i had no choice...like if its got a rip or a large enough scratch thru it.

on the carb gaskets i normally use white litheum grease...an old trucker trick i guess you can say...to help seal an old dry carb gasket.
 
Wow, Sounds like I need to put in some smaller bolts on the carb. What size works? Just cut off 1/4"? Also, what gaskets work well when I replace them? Any tips on where the gaskets should be placed. IIRC, the original ones were thin paper and went between all the metal spacers. Thanks! ty

a 1/4 " is a bit much....just a 1/16 to 1/8 should be fine..

replacement gaskets work well when replacing them :)

you can alwyas get at most Auto stores...a base gasket from a Holley 5200 (a weber copy carb) (then cut out the center like a weber gasket) .........or................just get a roll of paper gasket material....also from any auto parts store....and cut out you own...and your will have extras then :)

all gaskets should and will go between any two metal surface...so between each manifold plates...and between the base of carb and plate and also between the intake manifold and plate...there are three base gaskets in total.
 
some more weber literature....it was in my tool box....alil dirty sorry :)
weber pg1 001.webp
weber pg2.webp
weber pg3.webp
 
I have a weber on my F motor.

Should the carb be really loud? i get almost a whistling/wooshing sound when i hit the gas.. i would say it does it from 1/4-3/4 throttle.

It's pretty annoying.
 
Here's my jets, etc. 32/36 DGEV
Mains 140/175
Idle Jets 60/50
Air corrector 170/150
Emulsion tube 28/F50 (here's where I think the problem is)

Currently the carb is running lean at idle (4-5 turns out) and leans out to missfire at 1-3/12 throttle. All the jets are clean and there are only a few jets that differ from the stock settings. I wonder if the carb was jetted for high altitude at one point.
 
Great info!! I have a complete rebuilt F with a split header, 32/36. All running gear is stock except 31 10.50 BFG's. Oh yea also have a non us dist. Only problem is a hesitation when first taking off. The dist helped, as well as advancing timing and MANY idle adjustments. Plugs are bit lean. I have not had carb apart so i don't know what idle jets ETC are. Carb came from JT from PO. The other thing i did was ad a Vacuum gauge mounted inside. That was a GREAT help. Hesitation is not to bad now but i want it as close to perfect as possable. Also, looking at the non us carbs that are being sold by Troll. Any thoughts on this carb as opposed to my weber?
 
Here's my jets, etc. 32/36 DGEV
Mains 140/175
Idle Jets 60/50
Air corrector 170/150
Emulsion tube 28/F50 (here's where I think the problem is)

Currently the carb is running lean at idle (4-5 turns out) and leans out to missfire at 1-3/12 throttle. All the jets are clean and there are only a few jets that differ from the stock settings. I wonder if the carb was jetted for high altitude at one point.

KillerPea: you will need a jet kit.

i wouldnt touch the air's...start with the idle...go up 10 on each and readjust and check....its basicly playing around going up untill it works out...if you want start a new thread and we'll talk about what else to do if that doesnt work out OK :)


ptscustomwrk: same thing you'll need to increase the idle jets...in your case one side at a rtime and only up inc of 5...if it doesnt work out start up a new thread so we can work on in more indepth OK :)
 
KillerPea: you will need a jet kit.

i wouldnt touch the air's...start with the idle...go up 10 on each and readjust and check....its basicly playing around going up untill it works out...if you want start a new thread and we'll talk about what else to do if that doesnt work out OK :)


ptscustomwrk: same thing you'll need to increase the idle jets...in your case one side at a rtime and only up inc of 5...if it doesnt work out start up a new thread so we can work on in more indepth OK :)

Johnny,
I've upped the idle jets to an 85 primary idle, 65 secondary idle. I also pulled the intake manifold, sandblasted it, and made sure it went back on with no leaks.
The truck runs better...the major miss around 2200 rpms is gone. I've got the idle mixture closer....2.5 turns out instead of 4. Nonetheless, the idle is still bad. At lean best with the 85 primary, I can still only get the idle to about 475, then I have to start cranking on the idle stop screw which then starts into the enrichment circuit and makes the truck stink. Not sure where to go next. I noticed with the intake off that the head has been ported and polished.....I'm guessing it may be milled and cammed as well. I'm running a header and Hei also. I'm wondering if the 32/26 is big enough for the engine.

Ideas?
 
the 32/36 is alil on the smaller side for the 2f and kinda just barly right for the 1f.

it does run a bit on the leaner side and will get you better milage because of it being smaller than say a 38.

where do you have the timing? you may want to bring it up to about 12deg if not already.
 

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