Waterbogged FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[LINUS]

And we thought they were all in Iowa!

I'm flatly impressed one of the Maple Leaf brothers knew what a XM855 round is.

Not all of us have full-on open carry like you fellas.

Heck, if the Seattle contingency gets their way, hicap mags are history here.

Back on topic, here's a thread that I would use if I wanted to keep my keyless & alarm, but ditch that crusty old thing:
Upgrade RS3000 to other alarm without going under the dash. - Tutorial

 

[alia176]

"hold my beer, watch this"

 

[dermolotov]

Need to figure out the beeps later. For now, this is her. Found a total of $3.45, and a guitar pick, too

How bad is this floor rust?

 

[dermolotov]

Blackberry? Check (seriously, do you have a BetaMax player in your 80 too?!)

I just bought a new one, too after mine took the crapper. BlackBerry PRIV
How many hicks do you know have BlackBerries!?

I'm flatly impressed one of the Maple Leaf brothers knew what a XM855 round is.

Back on topic, here's a thread that I would use if I wanted to keep my keyless & alarm, but ditch that crusty old thing:
Upgrade RS3000 to other alarm without going under the dash. - Tutorial

I do a similar thing with you in getting someone else to figure out my electronics. I'm technologically inept past soldering and not sure I know why he is even doing the swap.

Should I just bring it over to an auto store and buy another unit similar to the RS3000 ?

[Also, we're getting a huge surplus of M855s here since they're "illegal" in a lot of states. They made a bunch before the election and now they can't get rid of them fast enough. We get them at around $600 for 800 rounds. 600CAD is 440USD]

 

[dermolotov]

Almost certain a destroyed an ABS sensor and my front locker now, too.
Every time a brake, I get a foot massage.

Also, there's a huge discrepancy between the two knuckle oils.

 

[alia176]

Tell you one thing Bubba, when you do it, you do it RIGHT!!!

 

[LINUS]

Was there any doubt you were going into both axles?

This will be an expensive situation before you're back to 'good', esp if you sat there long enough for the water to encroach as it did.

If you got a spare car, this is the time to just fill the gas tank, you'll be driving it untill you get a fresh FAS & RR axle diff dump/fill.

With any luck maybe your ABS sensor is waterlogged at the connector yet - all the connectors really, like whichever locker is failing.

A good 10' of 3/8" hose & a couple cheap fuel filters to relocate the breathers might be a good call too, if you plan to keep getting rowdy.

 

[dermolotov]

Was there any doubt you were going into both axles?

This will be an expensive situation before you're back to 'good', esp if you sat there long enough for the water to encroach as it did.

If you got a spare car, this is the time to just fill the gas tank, you'll be driving it untill you get a fresh FAS & RR axle diff dump/fill.

With any luck maybe your ABS sensor is waterlogged at the connector yet - all the connectors really, like whichever locker is failing.

A good 10' of 3/8" hose & a couple cheap fuel filters to relocate the breathers might be a good call too, if you plan to keep getting rowdy.

Breather tube was raised by the previous owner. The water was just way too high... :T

Also, this thing was almost completely submerged in water up to all the door seals. I didn't notice anything with the rear axles but the front axles are kinda just dripping on my driveway as we speak.

When it comes to front axle rebuilds, I have the rebuild kit from TrailGear for $300 but am a bit weary of doing it myself. I have owners telling me it's a pretty easy job but a few mixed messages coming from this forum when I do searches. Some guy even spending "10 days" wiping off s*** and putting it back in.

I drove the cruiser with the rear doors off today for around 50 mi. I noted a few issues and definitely can't bring it to the trails this long weekend. Gonna drag it to the mechanic tomorrow morning and see what he says about the internals. I'm no good with technology and even gave up looking for that RS3000 swap / fished cable.

 

[Sarmajor]

The breather should be extended up to the top of the fire wall. Using the small inline fuel filters allows things to breath. If you end up stuck in water that gets that deep in the engine bay you will have bigger problems.

I managed to get about 6 inches of water in my truck.
I took it home and Used a wet vacuum to get the worst of the water out after removing the front seats.
Removed the plastic trim buts at each door and lifted the carpet at the edges.
Luckily the carpet has a waterproof backing and the water had only penetrated a few inches into the felt material.
I then covered the whole car with a huge tarp. Set a small fan heater under the center of the truck and a dehumidifier inside the truck with the windows closed.
The idea was to warm the whole truck to drive the moisture out into the air and the dehumidifier to suck it out of the air.
Took a couple of days but after getting next to no water in the rank after day 3 I called it good.

I don't have an alarm so can't offer much help on that.

The most important thing is to get the moisture out of the interior as soon as possible because moisture + dirt + electricity = rampant corrosion of delicate electrical things.

And of course it will smell worse than a wet dog if you leave it wet long enough for bugs to grow.

 

[Bludozer]

Please continue to post more of your adventures.

This is a 10/10 thread.

 

[dermolotov]

As an update for the security issue with a fix:

The RS3000 is damaged to a degree and has been occasionally giving me less issues as the unit starts to dry more and more. I brought the trucc to the mechanic who called his security guy who called his alarm guy and sent over the specs to the RS3000.
In order to turn the security system off, you just have to make sure the white "ground" wire is not connected to anything specific. This completely removes the drain on the system, lights, horn, etc as a one fix. This removes the need to retract the wiring harness as well in case I ever want to upgrade to something less archaic which will give me a key fob to open the doors or whatever. I probably won't but it's good to have. The wiring in my original picture also had a remote starter and some other weird ignition lock system in it. That's what was causing me a ridiculous headache in the first place so I ripped both of those stupid things out.

So unfortunately, I still have to keep the broken RS3000 plugged in and not shot (for now) but I did remove the headunit.
So this is what a green tip .223 does to it:

It also really fxxxed up my fifth cylinder so remember to grease up before you bog up.

 

[dermolotov]

The breather should be extended up to the top of the fire wall. Using the small inline fuel filters allows things to breath. If you end up stuck in water that gets that deep in the engine bay you will have bigger problems.

The most important thing is to get the moisture out of the interior as soon as possible because moisture + dirt + electricity = rampant corrosion of delicate electrical things.

And of course it will smell worse than a wet dog if you leave it wet long enough for bugs to grow.

I ripped out the entire carpet and left it to bake in the sun at 30 degrees. Then I poured 100% alcohol all over the metals and the weird foam padding underneath the carpet. Pulled the drain plugs and let that leak down.
I then powerwashed the carpet and stomped on it with my feet to get all the dry dust off, sprayed it down with 100% ethanol, and let that sit in the sun for 8 hours. Took the 80 to a gas station and used the vacuum to suck out all the residual, microscopic dust particles.

It's front axle rebuild time. The breather hose is already pretty high but so was the water level... I'm gonna extend it to the engine bay firewall now and put a snorkel on it. Then waterproof the entire cylinder heads and put a swimmer's cap on the fuse box. I'm then going to try and run the horn up near the opening of the snorkel.
What other objects are sensitive to water in the engine bay?

 

[BILT4ME]

What other objects are sensitive to water in the engine bay?

Anything electrical.

Mount the alternator above the hood. Run a belt up to it...........(not so real)
Mount the battery in the rear inside the truck...... (real)
Caulk the holes on the distributor and attach a hose to the crankcase to hold a pressure on it to push water out (yes, this is real)

Buy a diesel. Create an electrical cut-out to turn off ALL electrical during underwater operation. We had a tractor in a soybean processing plant that we had to do this due to the explosive nature of the environment. (Hexane vapor possibility)

 

[dermolotov]

Axle rebuild means this piece is kinda dislodged on the passenger's side front axle (the shorter one). Is that ring an issue or do I just thread the axle through without minding it too much?

Also, I broke the longfields axle "cage" which was causing that really loud whirling. But more on that later...

(not so real)
(real)
(yes, this is real)

Buy a diesel. Create an electrical cut-out to turn off ALL electrical during underwater operation. We had a tractor in a soybean processing plant that we had to do this due to the explosive nature of the environment. (Hexane vapor possibility)

What do you mean by real and non-real? Also, yeah, gotta take those tubes and duct tape a million things to the firewall. Maybe weld my driver's side floorplate

Also interesting that you had hexane vapour on your industrial plant. I've delivered 200 litres of that stuff to berry farmers or something. Used around 2 litres of it today to dissolve a lot of diff. fluid.

 

[BILT4ME]

Axle rebuild means this piece is kinda dislodged on the passenger's side front axle (the shorter one). Is that ring an issue or do I just thread the axle through without minding it too much?

Also, I broke the longfields axle "cage" which was causing that really loud whirling. But more on that later...

View attachment 1471078


What do you mean by real and non-real? Also, yeah, gotta take those tubes and duct tape a million things to the firewall. Maybe weld my driver's side floorplate

Also interesting that you had hexane vapour on your industrial plant. I've delivered 200 litres of that stuff to berry farmers or something. Used around 2 litres of it today to dissolve a lot of diff. fluid.

Not real, real, yes this is real:
Think about the logistics of what I wrote. Installing the alternator ABOVE the hood? Who would do that and how would it work with it mounted a couple feet above the hood? I mean that's not a REAL solution.

Yes, a real solution would be to mount the battery on the interior in the rear. It would keep it dry.

There is someone on here that has actually waterproofed their distributor by attaching a hose to it and caulking it. This is a REAL solution.

I post a lot of "crap" and sometimes the REAL stuff sounds like crap.

 

[RFB]

You now get the site name.
Heck, I fully admit I do **maybe** 5 short trips in winter, and easily twice that from late June - mid Oct. Eff mud, eff water crossings.

Yes, I'd unplug the RS3000 if not for any other reason than dry it out.

And really lifting the carpets lets the horsehair/jute mat dry - and a good ~12hrs with a real space heater & the sunroof vented & windows cracked gets the humidity out fast. I learned the same way you did about this with that LX450.

I "baptized" that thing about as much as Moses did some Egyptian soldiers.

And I bet you clogged the vents to the pumkins, or solidly washed the connecters to that e-locker indicator. You'll get familiar with the dielectric/lithium grease & a air compressor real quick. You got yerself a project.

good use of Moses and the soldiers he saved. JMO

 

[dermolotov]

So as an update on this, I've done quite a lot of preventative maintenance on water crossings in my FJ. Especially with how wet Canada has been in this summer. We only went into the yellow (some areas) for fire watch for the first time this summer where it was red all last summer.

Anyway, I have:
-swimmer's capped the fuse box
-caulked the wires running into the cab
-put a snorkel on
-moved the horn somewhere less stupid
-extended the axle breather hoses
-bought a diesel OM617 then was convinced to not put it into my land cruiser so am searching for another diesel

Unfortunately on the latter, it won't be a non-electric direct injected old engine. But it will be diesel so there are no sparkplugs to misfire like my fifth cylinder over and over again on this 1-FZ.

I post a lot of "crap" and sometimes the REAL stuff sounds like crap.

That's called irony. And I suppose if I can't differentiate between real and unreal, I have no business driving my land cruiser in water, heh.

Unirregardless, alternator cap is something we'll have to figure out in the future. The battery is actually hidden pretty well by the engineers. It's the only thing in my engine bay right now that isn't completely covered with mud so good on them. In the future, I'm planning on running a triple battery setup so they'll have to be mounted in the rear somewhere anyway. We'll see where I am in the next year.

 

[Bludozer]

>In the future, I'm planning on running a triple battery setup

my man please
tell us why

 

[dermolotov]

>In the future, I'm planning on running a triple battery setup

my man please
tell us why

Air Conditioning without running the engine. A friend did it with two deep cycle batteries and a starter and just found it less strenuous if you just wire in three considering the price.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Air Conditioning without running the engine. A friend did it with two deep cycle batteries and a starter and just found it less strenuous if you just wire in three considering the price.

What kind of AC? The car AC or a supplemental AC like an RV system?