Water Inlet Gasket or Blown HG

[Russell2U]

Just finished the timing belt on my newly purchased 07 470. Everything went fine and I’ve driven for about 150 miles but I don’t drive very long trips, 10-15 minutes each trip never in traffic. First long drive I took it out, and while sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic I noticed my AC quit blowing cold. I looked down and saw my thermostat approaching/touching red. I turned the heat all the way up and the temp dropped back down, probably in less than a minute. I got it home, added water and tried to burp the system but kept getting a tiny bubble every 2 minutes or so.

I found what I think is a rolled gasket on the inlet hose. I’m going to try and find a replacement local tomorrow, I think a Fel Pro 35555 looks close.

What are the odds I blew the head gasket from running it hot, even for such a short period? Will the rolled gasket cause bubbles in the burping? Still trying to trouble shoot but I can’t get back out to look at it until tomorrow evening and I’m stressing.

 

[GTV]

That o-ring needs replaced. If done with every timing belt job it isn't a problem. The factory Toyota part is cheap, just get that.

 

[Russell2U]

That o-ring needs replaced. If done with every timing belt job it isn't a problem. The factory Toyota part is cheap, just get that.

I did replace it during the TB job, I think I rolled it when shoving the inlet tubing inside. I’m worried the local Toyota won’t have it.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I had the same problem when I did my TB/WP. Mine got deformed when I installed it, when I did it again I applied dielectric grease on that o-ring seal and that fixed it.

 

[GTV]

I did replace it during the TB job, I think I rolled it when shoving the inlet tubing inside. I’m worried the local Toyota won’t have it.

Gotcha. A little lube helps next time. These things tend to chew up and spit out aftermarket parts, personally I’d get the real deal even if it takes a few more days.

 

[Russell2U]

I had the same problem when I did my TB/WP. Mine got deformed when I installed it, when I did it again I applied dielectric grease on that o-ring seal and that fixed it.

Thanks for the tip. Did your vehicle run hot? Or caught yours before? Not sure how sensitive these engines are to those elevated temps.

 

[Russell2U]

Gotcha. A little lube helps next time. These things tend to chew up and spit out aftermarket parts, personally I’d get the real deal even if it takes a few more days.

I always try to run OEM and will probably end up having to wait, I just hate the fact it’s spewing coolant all over my engine. Underneath is already a mess. Brake parts cleaner isn’t doing a good job cleaning.

 

[87warrior]

Thanks for the tip. Did your vehicle run hot? Or caught yours before? Not sure how sensitive these engines are to those elevated temps.

The general consensus on the forum is that heat will cause problems very fast on the 2UZ.

That said, when I did my TB swap I unknowingly failed to move the lower radiator hose clamp up to the water pump to clamp it in place. I did a warm and cool cycle after the TB was done without an issue. Of course after I get 10 miles down the road the next day the hose popped off and my temperature climbed sky high. That was 75k miles ago. I have not noticed any issues and a Blackstone oil analysis reports no issues as well.

 

[Russell2U]

The general consensus on the forum is that heat will cause problems very fast on the 2UZ.

That said, when I did my TB swap I unknowingly failed to move the lower radiator hose clamp up to the water pump to clamp it in place. I did a warm and cool cycle after the TB was done without an issue. Of course after I get 10 miles down the road the next day the hose popped off and my temperature climbed sky high. That was 75k miles ago. I have not noticed any issues and a Blackstone oil analysis reports no issues as well.

That’s more reassuring than not, thank you. I found a gasket local to me and I’ll be replacing this afternoon. I hope after I replace and burp again I don’t have any bubbles, that’ll be the sign.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Thanks for the tip. Did your vehicle run hot? Or caught yours before? Not sure how sensitive these engines are to those elevated temps.

I caught mine before I test drove it. I ran it idle for about 30 mins then I saw the tiny weep at that junction area.

 

[Russell2U]

I replaced the gasket and everything sealed up. I bled the air out and no bubbles at idle for 10 minues, but every 2 minutes or so at 2k RPM’s I’ll get a large bubble. Can this be from the coolant circulating?

 

[SteveH]

I replaced the gasket and everything sealed up. I bled the air out and no bubbles at idle for 10 minues, but every 2 minutes or so at 2k RPM’s I’ll get a large bubble. Can this be from the coolant circulating?

Do you mean bubbles in the overflow tank, or the radiator with the cap off? I would just put it back together with a new radiator cap, and drive and see what symptoms arise (if any). A blown head gasket (if the problem) should show up more dramatically.

 

[Russell2U]

I replaced the gasket and everything sealed up. I bled the air out and no bubbles at idle for 10 minues, but every 2 minutes or so at 2k RPM’s I’ll get a large bubble. Can this be from the coolant circulating?

Do you mean bubbles in the overflow tank, or the radiator with the cap off? I would just put it back together with a new radiator cap, and drive and see what symptoms arise (if any). A blown head gasket (if the problem) should show up more dramatically.

Bubbles from the radiator with the cap off. I bought a new OEM radiator cap and have been driving it. There’s a very small amount of coolant that’s come out of the radiator cap. I guess I have another leak causing air to get in the system or blown HG. Gonna buy a lisle combustion leak detector today and rule out or confirm HG

 

[Russell2U]

Repeat