Builds Watch me tear my FJ40 apart!! 72 frame off (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Xpnsv72fj
- Start date
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Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #422
Got a few hours in the garage and the build continues!
So far so good everything is fitting together nicely. I'm hoping to have everything back together Wednesday. I do have a few things I need to address, first I'm going to have to get a new bolt kit for the top and doors. I just ordered Overland Metrics 1000 piece kit so I'm gong to wait for that to come in before ordering anything else. Both my doors have small stress cracks I need to weld, I will include a picture below please jump in if you think I need to do something else. I also have a dent on the front cowl where the hood bolts up. So still plenty to do before I tear it all apart again.
Door fit
Door stress cracks
So far so good everything is fitting together nicely. I'm hoping to have everything back together Wednesday. I do have a few things I need to address, first I'm going to have to get a new bolt kit for the top and doors. I just ordered Overland Metrics 1000 piece kit so I'm gong to wait for that to come in before ordering anything else. Both my doors have small stress cracks I need to weld, I will include a picture below please jump in if you think I need to do something else. I also have a dent on the front cowl where the hood bolts up. So still plenty to do before I tear it all apart again.
Door fit
Door stress cracks
Take your time, it looks great so far.
Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #428
Not much done over the last few days, I did finish up my doors and started working on my trans tunnel. It was pretty sad to have to cut into a perfect trans tunnel but I have to modify it to fit the 4 speed.
Other than that as we move closer to paint I continue to go back and forth on color ideas. I thought I was set on Dune Beige but, Toyota came out with that cement color on the TRD PRO 4Runner that I really like and I've seen a few other grays that I like. I know it isn't a factory 40 color but I can't make up my mind. I don't care what it does to the value as I'm not planning on selling it and its pretty much a resto mod at this point.
Please give me your opinions!
Other than that as we move closer to paint I continue to go back and forth on color ideas. I thought I was set on Dune Beige but, Toyota came out with that cement color on the TRD PRO 4Runner that I really like and I've seen a few other grays that I like. I know it isn't a factory 40 color but I can't make up my mind. I don't care what it does to the value as I'm not planning on selling it and its pretty much a resto mod at this point.
Please give me your opinions!
I like the gray, gives it a classic and sophisticated look.
Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #432
Sorry I’ve been away for a little while but with work and my new daughter I haven’t had much time. I have been getting a little work done here and there and hope to get some time tomorrow.
Anyways I have a little problem I’m hoping you guys can give me some guidance on. I can’t figure out the best way the mount the rear seat brackets for me front seats. My 40 came with a bench but I have decided to run buckets. I can’t just drill a hole in the floor and weld a nut on the bottom because the floor is boxed in. I know people do this all the time so any input would be great.
Josh
Anyways I have a little problem I’m hoping you guys can give me some guidance on. I can’t figure out the best way the mount the rear seat brackets for me front seats. My 40 came with a bench but I have decided to run buckets. I can’t just drill a hole in the floor and weld a nut on the bottom because the floor is boxed in. I know people do this all the time so any input would be great.
Josh
As far back as possible.
blossett
SILVER Star
Check into Nutserts
There are also SS toggle bolts used in marine applications
FASCO FASTENER Stainless Steel Togglers | West Marine
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkeith
its my understanding from reading i did yesterday that the tool also rolls the top of the nutsertslightly to help its holding power?
I was looking everywhere I could think of yesterday to try to find some tech specs on the loads they can handle depending on the thickness of the metal they're installed in, etc etc but couldn't find anything.
Only certain styles require the heads to be rolled.
There are two basic styles of threaded inserts: bulbing and a shear-type that uses interference to hold itself in place. The shear type are typically the cheaper ones you pick up from Pep Boys, etc. I would suggest the bulbing style for your application as they have a much larger load bearing area on the back side of the insert. You can also get them with splined bodies and large flanges to help resist spinning and give a large load bearing area on the top side of your application.
With respect to the bolts sticking in the inserts, put a little anti-sieze on the bolt and make sure the drilled hole size in the parent material is correct for the insert and that should take care of 99% of your problems.
There are also SS toggle bolts used in marine applications
FASCO FASTENER Stainless Steel Togglers | West Marine
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkeith
its my understanding from reading i did yesterday that the tool also rolls the top of the nutsertslightly to help its holding power?
I was looking everywhere I could think of yesterday to try to find some tech specs on the loads they can handle depending on the thickness of the metal they're installed in, etc etc but couldn't find anything.
Only certain styles require the heads to be rolled.
There are two basic styles of threaded inserts: bulbing and a shear-type that uses interference to hold itself in place. The shear type are typically the cheaper ones you pick up from Pep Boys, etc. I would suggest the bulbing style for your application as they have a much larger load bearing area on the back side of the insert. You can also get them with splined bodies and large flanges to help resist spinning and give a large load bearing area on the top side of your application.
With respect to the bolts sticking in the inserts, put a little anti-sieze on the bolt and make sure the drilled hole size in the parent material is correct for the insert and that should take care of 99% of your problems.
Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #437
Check into Nutserts
There are also SS toggle bolts used in marine applications
FASCO FASTENER Stainless Steel Togglers | West Marine
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkeith
its my understanding from reading i did yesterday that the tool also rolls the top of the nutsertslightly to help its holding power?
I was looking everywhere I could think of yesterday to try to find some tech specs on the loads they can handle depending on the thickness of the metal they're installed in, etc etc but couldn't find anything.
Only certain styles require the heads to be rolled.
There are two basic styles of threaded inserts: bulbing and a shear-type that uses interference to hold itself in place. The shear type are typically the cheaper ones you pick up from Pep Boys, etc. I would suggest the bulbing style for your application as they have a much larger load bearing area on the back side of the insert. You can also get them with splined bodies and large flanges to help resist spinning and give a large load bearing area on the top side of your application.
With respect to the bolts sticking in the inserts, put a little anti-sieze on the bolt and make sure the drilled hole size in the parent material is correct for the insert and that should take care of 99% of your problems.
Thanks for the reply, I was talking to a friend that use to restore cars and he suggested the same thing. So I've been looking at the tool and nutserts on amazon. I haven't ordered one yet but I will be soon, I will keep everyone up to date on how it works.
Thanks again Josh
Xpnsv72fj
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #438
Yes I’m still alive!!
Sorry for not keeping up with everything better but between my job and my little girl I just don’t have a ton of time. I have been been slowly but surely chipping away.
So as you can see I’m still test fitting everything as I’m really paranoid about painting it and things not fitting right.
My pro car seats came in and I’m still working out the details on the seat frames.
I order the humvee seat belt kit that some guys are running on here some once they comes in I will month them and make sure I have the seats where I want them. I’m still debating on a tuffy console or the cruiser crap one. If anyone has an opinion please jump in and let me know.
I will try to do better about updating!
Sorry for not keeping up with everything better but between my job and my little girl I just don’t have a ton of time. I have been been slowly but surely chipping away.
So as you can see I’m still test fitting everything as I’m really paranoid about painting it and things not fitting right.
My pro car seats came in and I’m still working out the details on the seat frames.
I order the humvee seat belt kit that some guys are running on here some once they comes in I will month them and make sure I have the seats where I want them. I’m still debating on a tuffy console or the cruiser crap one. If anyone has an opinion please jump in and let me know.
I will try to do better about updating!
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