I am changing my valve cover gasket (OEM Gasket), but the darn thing will not stay in place, every time I try to put the cover back on the gasket falls out, it is too loose. I am putting the long edge into the top of the valve cover so the flatter section would rest against the matting surface. Seems like an easy operation, but not this one....any thoughts? Should I use a little dab of FIPG on the corners/around the edges of the valve cover to keep it in place? What am I doing wrong?
Valve Cover Gasket Won't Stay in Place
- Thread starter Gergg
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
I see the little nubs at the bottom of the long section that fits in the VC groove, maybe I wasn't pushing it down far enough, I will check that out tomorrow....thanks.
Assuming you're working on a FZJ80?
Make sure of course that the groove for the gasket is completely clean, no left over bits of the old gasket stuck in there. Adding a small dab of FIPG in the groove at the corners before installing the gasket won't hurt, don't use too much, you don't want it to get squeezed out and break off then fall inside. Just let it set up a bit before attempting to install the valve cover. But IME if the gasket is pushed all the way into the groove it should stay there as long as it doesn't get bumped as you're installing the valve cover.
FWIW I've used thick silicone grease (dielectric grease, not an aerosol silicone) slathered on the gasket before I push it into the groove. It's sticky and will help hold the gasket in place.
@Gergg : are you also replacing the spark plug tube seals? The PCV valve grommet? Did you clean out the oil baffle box (inside top of the valve cover) while the valve cover was off? IME it takes a lot of cleaning to remove 25 years of burned oil/varnish/sludge from inside that area.
If you're working on a FZJ80 here are some other maintenance items while the valve cover was off:
Replace spark plugs
Replace spark plug wires if original (they last about forever if not damaged)
Replace Distributor cap and rotor
Clean distributor under the cap (Warning; do not use brake/carb cleaner, Electronics cleaner only).
Replace distributor O-ring (common oil leak but have to pull the distributor.
Clean Throttle body (internally) including the three small vacuum ports?
Clean IAC valve port (you'll need new a IAC valve O-ring)
Check main engine harness near the EGR pipe, add heat insulation sleeve??
Replace Heat Control Valve?
Replace old hardened vacuum lines?
Replace PCV and breather hoses?
Check/replace air intake hose?
Clean MAF sensor with correct MAF cleaner?
Clean air filter can, replace filter?
Make sure of course that the groove for the gasket is completely clean, no left over bits of the old gasket stuck in there. Adding a small dab of FIPG in the groove at the corners before installing the gasket won't hurt, don't use too much, you don't want it to get squeezed out and break off then fall inside. Just let it set up a bit before attempting to install the valve cover. But IME if the gasket is pushed all the way into the groove it should stay there as long as it doesn't get bumped as you're installing the valve cover.
FWIW I've used thick silicone grease (dielectric grease, not an aerosol silicone) slathered on the gasket before I push it into the groove. It's sticky and will help hold the gasket in place.
@Gergg : are you also replacing the spark plug tube seals? The PCV valve grommet? Did you clean out the oil baffle box (inside top of the valve cover) while the valve cover was off? IME it takes a lot of cleaning to remove 25 years of burned oil/varnish/sludge from inside that area.
If you're working on a FZJ80 here are some other maintenance items while the valve cover was off:
Replace spark plugs
Replace spark plug wires if original (they last about forever if not damaged)
Replace Distributor cap and rotor
Clean distributor under the cap (Warning; do not use brake/carb cleaner, Electronics cleaner only).
Replace distributor O-ring (common oil leak but have to pull the distributor.
Clean Throttle body (internally) including the three small vacuum ports?
Clean IAC valve port (you'll need new a IAC valve O-ring)
Check main engine harness near the EGR pipe, add heat insulation sleeve??
Replace Heat Control Valve?
Replace old hardened vacuum lines?
Replace PCV and breather hoses?
Check/replace air intake hose?
Clean MAF sensor with correct MAF cleaner?
Clean air filter can, replace filter?
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks, what is the best way to clean the inside of the VC baffle section? I changed every hose under the hood (Vacuum, Coolant, & Fuel). The only thing on your list I did not do was the MAF cleaning, was afraid to touch that thing...lol...Any tips on cleaning it and proper cleaner? Yes, FZJ80 - 1997 LX450
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks again......That did it, just needed to press the gasket down a bit firmer to engage the nubs....all is well, job completed
To clean the MAF wires on the FZJ80 best IME to remove the MAF from the engine then with it in your hand look into the MAF housing from the downwind/engine side and you'll see the wires inside a central hub. Using CRC MAF cleaner you spray directly onto the wires but don't touch/push on them. There are also a couple of very small holes on the inside of the housing if you look closely, blast those also to ensure they're open.
Cleaning the oil baffle (box) IME can only be done properly (should be done) while the valve cover is off the engine, the stronger detergent cleaners like Purple Power and a garden hose into every opening, followed by a couple cans of different types of Carb/brake cleaner. Best method IME if really sludged up would be running it through an engine block cleaner first (giant parts washer, if not using a caustic solution) followed by the above steps.
If you wanted to make it look better than new, give it a light media blasting followed by painting or having it Cerakoted.
Cleaning the oil baffle (box) IME can only be done properly (should be done) while the valve cover is off the engine, the stronger detergent cleaners like Purple Power and a garden hose into every opening, followed by a couple cans of different types of Carb/brake cleaner. Best method IME if really sludged up would be running it through an engine block cleaner first (giant parts washer, if not using a caustic solution) followed by the above steps.
If you wanted to make it look better than new, give it a light media blasting followed by painting or having it Cerakoted.
