Vacuum assist FD (1 Viewer)

[nuclearlemon]

sure as s..t, there's two small tears near the edge. when i installed it, i just let it rest in place and drilled holes for bolts and installed. both tears are at the bottom near the bolt holes. i'm thinking it was too relaxed and i need to push it in a bit and get the bolt holes closer to the edge of the diaphram

 

[65swb45]

sure as s..t, there's two small tears near the edge. when i installed it, i just let it rest in place and drilled holes for bolts and installed. both tears are at the bottom near the bolt holes. i'm thinking it was too relaxed and i need to push it in a bit and get the bolt holes closer to the edge of the diaphram

Why would you need to drill holes if you were using a stock diaphragm? Unless you weren't! In which case, what thickness rubber were you trying to use? Perhaps that has something to do with it.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Why would you need to drill holes if you were using a stock diaphragm? Unless you weren't! In which case, what thickness rubber were you trying to use? Perhaps that has something to do with it.

i can't say for sure if they're oem or not since they're used from marv, but they're probably later model oem when the j bolts were used to hold the pod halves together

 

[Splangy]

i can't say for sure if they're oem or not since they're used from marv, but they're probably later model oem when the j bolts were used to hold the pod halves together

The very early 1961-1962 diaphragms had screws that went through the diaphragm rim, unlike the 1963 diaphragms that mounted with the little hook screws on them outside. I had to take a later diaphragm and punch holes in it to work with my 1963 case, too.

I would recommend using a gasket punch set rather than a drill. Drills and rubber don't mix well.

The punches will leave a nice clean hole and I'm sure you'll find other uses for it as many early gaskets are NLA. I think I got my punch set at harbor freight for cheap money.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I would recommend using a gasket punch set rather than a drill. Drills and rubber don't mix well.

The punches will leave a nice clean hole and I'm sure you'll find other uses for it as many early gaskets are NLA. I think I got my punch set at harbor freight for cheap money.

thanks splangy...may have to try that. with the jagged edges created by the drill bit, i think it might allow a tearing type pull with probably doesn't help

 

[65swb45]

The very early 1961-1962 diaphragms had screws that went through the diaphragm rim, unlike the 1963 diaphragms that mounted with the little hook screws on them outside. .

Ahh! That is something I did not know! I never paid any attention that the real early ones might be different. All I ever noted was the linkage on the pre-66 models was external, so I stocked up on the bootie for the rod.

Next time I'm looking thru the bin of vacuum shifters, I'll have to pay more attention.

 

[coleman2347]

Just wondering if any of you guys have ever tried to make your own diaphragms? Years ago I worked for a place that re-manufactured old pneumatic valves and occasionally we would have to make one out of diaphragm stock...its usually available at suppliers for/or shops that do that kind of work...

 

[nuclearlemon]

Just wondering if any of you guys have ever tried to make your own diaphragms? Years ago I worked for a place that re-manufactured old pneumatic valves and occasionally we would have to make one out of diaphragm stock...its usually available at suppliers for/or shops that do that kind of work...

not yet, but i'm exploring rubber casting. would like to hear more about "diaphram stock" tho.

 

[nuclearlemon]

for mark, 61-62 vacuum pod

 

[65swb45]

Thank you Ige. In 27 years of wrenching on cruisers, I have never seen a vacuum pod like that. Duly noted.

If I ever see the guy I bought a 1962 windshield frame from [doubtful, it's been eight years now] I will ask him if he has one.

As far as fixing your pod, why don't you try using some rubber from a car-sized inner tube?

 

[coleman2347]

Diaphragm stock can be bought an most anyplace that repairs stuff like gas tank regulators, pneumatic regulators...stuff like that, its the same stuff you will find in any thing that uses a diaphragm...if you live in a larger city it should be easy to find....the only thing is the material is different in pneumatic/fuel regulators. I really dont think it would be hard if you have a sample of what you need...years ago we use to make all of our own gaskets and its not much harder to make diaphragms...the flexibility and use of the material is the most problematic. If I was going to do it I would just research it online...The facility I use to work at repaired something like 30k different types of pressure regulated valves ...

 

[oestlarsen]

Speaking of...does this shifter cavity need oil separately? Seems not connected with rest of case. If so how much?

 

[nuclearlemon]

Speaking of...does this shifter cavity need oil separately? Seems not connected with rest of case. If so how much?



View attachment 822721

should only need some light greasing so the shafts move freely

 

[oestlarsen]

Thanks...there was oil in there so wondered. Will grease and button her back up.

 

[oestlarsen]

Sorry guys...another question. My shifter sleeve fell out, not sure direction to put it back in. I believe diagram says large bevel facing out...anybody know or will it only go back together with fork in right position?

 

[handcannon]

I don't remember the correct orientation, but it only works correctly one way. I learned through the school of hard knocks. I just didn't learn the whole lesson (I don't remember the correct orientation).

Don

 

[65swb45]

Sorry guys...another question. My shifter sleeve fell out, not sure direction to put it back in. I believe diagram says large bevel facing out...anybody know or will it only go back together with fork in right position?


View attachment 823681

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Back up a step. Your shift fork is SHOT. Do not reassemble without replacing it.

Best

Mark

 

[oestlarsen]

Handcannon, thanks! Figure i dont want that assembled incorrectly. Will go by the parts diagram and hope for the best!

Mark, thanks for spotting! What is wrong with it? Not warped and does not appear broken.

Btw, I tested vacuum operation and moving well with little vacuum, so eager to get back in business and my motor in.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Mark, thanks for spotting! What is wrong with it? Not warped and does not appear broken.

it's not supposed to look like it's machined. it's a cast fork. should have dull gray feet where it goes into the collar. the manual should show the tolerance between the fork and the collar. yours will show ot have a lot of slop

 

[oestlarsen]

Got it, thanks! SOR does not list this as available unless used. Will have to see where to buy one...anybody have ideas, all ears!