Vacuum Advance... Rebuild. (1 Viewer)

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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
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So after finding that the new used vac advance I just bought was in fact blown (not the sellers fault... his dad and brother didn't know to check it with a vac gauge) I started doing some research online. I found this cool youtube video of a guy rebuilding a vac adv from a 1928 Lanchester LD10. It honestly did not look that hard... clearly he skipped the time consuming careful prying the crimped edge requires to keep it intact.

Like my avatar says... Dare me.
Here she is. Pried open all on my own. I made a wooden vice and even when a chunk broke out it helped because I kept the port in that area (I did bend it some before that but not to the point of breaking). I just kept at it with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver (I actually made many years ago in shop class; its edge is a bit sharp but its quite solid and a tad rounded) to essentially break the seal. To pry up the lip I used another screwdriver as a fulcrum for a small crowbar then I shaved down the edge of a short flat head so it was round and got her up the rest of the way with that and another larger fulcrum (my wrench handle).
I did find a guy in NJ who rebuilds them from 1928 to 1970. I told him what I was doing and he called me the "coolest chick ever" multiple times. I sent him pixs with calipers holding it vertical to the body and horizontal and he was unsure it would fit in his machine so it was at that point I figured I had zero to lose to just try to open it up. He just cuts them open in some machine but from there I didn't ask details how he then closed them back up. Since I got her open I have sent him pixs to see if he would be willing to help me source a new diaphragm (although if I can't find anything I'll try the one that is sold by @cruiseroutfit for the secondary on the carb.
The knuckles of my right hand are screaming... It wasn't an easy task but I did it. Thanks again @JustinJawbreaker for providing me with a guinea pig and making me take it in my own hands.

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The unveiling.... I believe that the black crud is carbon from the vacuum line, the wetness from me spraying PB on various areas and it seeped in. I remember as I was breaking the seal at one point I saw bubbles so that is obviously when it opened up. I gave the spring seat a pry in a few places and she popped right up. Then the spring itself is held in with a retainer which I thought I'd dropped but finally looked at the wrench I'd used to turn it and there it still sat gripped. I tossed the rusty metal pieces into a cup of evapo rust and have been cleaning up the inner housing.

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Looks tho that the two ports work off each other. There are two small holes in the middle so I believe I'll have no choice up to open the other side as well since it appears they work together and not separate as I had hoped.

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Nice work. Necessity is the mother of invention. Years ago I did something similar as I has a broken speedo needle on a 1965 Honda speedometer. The case was crimped together like your unit. Truth be told that chromed piece of steel was much thinner than what you have.

Prying it apart was hard but getting back in place and airtight will be tougher but I'm sure you'll get it. Go round slowly and evenly. If you get any pie crust effect it will trouble. I wouldn't hesitate to silicone it to ensure a seal.

I can't tell - can the push rod be disassembled to where you could cut a section of inner tube to make a new diaphragm?

Keep at it.
 
Definitely planing on using silicone. But in that video above he mentions heating the metal (annealing) over a gas flame to make rolling the edge more smooth... I am going to read up on too.
Thanks for speaking up on your experience.
 
This is great! I've looked into doing the same thing on my FJ40 dizzy advance. I've read a couple people dipping the diaphragm in plasti dip to reuse the old one with good results. I think one of the write ups was in the 40's forum. Haven't done it myself, but considering it unless a find a working one/better solution.
 
There's a thread somewhere where somebody repaired that disintegrated diaphragm with plastic or rubber dip. Nice work!


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Fantastic job. This is what owning a Cruiser is all about. Doing what it takes to keep these rigs going. Proud of you my Friend
 
Sweet guys, thank you! The guy above in the video did speak about coating the diaphram w/ silicone so the plasti dip is probably the same idea. Thanks for the link!
 
And now the secondary side which went much quicker. I had it apart in 30 mins. Clearly this side pulls the most ugly from the system.
It's really quite interesting to see this from the inside out. What a cool way to really understand how a part works. I'm still pondering it. :) if someone else wants to put it into words, feel free. For now I'm just going through the motions and doing what needs to be done because I'm stubborn, determined and willing to take the risk. What did I have to lose?

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The diaphragms are in a basin of distilled water and dawn soap. They don't look too bad. Rubber is semi intact on the secondary one but it does have bubbles in the surface. The spring caps are ugly and the secondary has rusted through so I'll possibly make up a paste of JB and dab it into there to make it tight again and not rough which might compromise any silicone/plasti dip surface I attempt to restore.

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A guy in the 40 section did it w/ plasti dip. Other than that I don't know about its ability to withstand all those conditions. New after market vac adv is $140. Rebuild w/ diz via rockauto who sends it to A1-Carbone is over $170 now.
I'll contact the guy in NJ and see what his thoughts are.
 
Vacuum Advancers for the FJ60 Dissy are long NLA and you will not find one anywhere, no matter what you see online.

Who's the guy in NJ?

And Plastidip is supposed to be very durable - many youtube vids on how durable. People spray their truck hoods with it to prevent rock chips.
 
I just read that plasti dip can go to 200 degrees. What's the thoughts on how warm that area of the distributor might get?
The guy in NJ I mentioned further up. He rebuilds vac adv on cars from 1928-1970. I'll give him a call.
 
Yeah, the ambient temp in the engine compartment is going to be around 200*F but probably less when moving. Anyone's guess on the long-term durability of the dip when exposed to heat... There may be a better product for the application and maybe the NJ fellow will share his secrets....
 

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