Vacuum Advance... Rebuild.
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Another update. I found a used dual diaphragm NipponDenso advancer with HAC from a late '70s Toyota non-Land Cruiser model. The main advance curve overlays the '79 2F curve almost exactly. It's going to be installed in a fellow MUD member's '79 FJ40 with a bad HAC diaphragm. But I only have one, and aftermarket advancers for that model aren't available.
I have two dual diaphragm advancers from the same Toyota engine, but with different NipponDenso part numbers than the above - also different advance characteristics. They may be from a later (or earlier) year. Their primary diaphragm advance curve is much flatter than the FJ60 curve, and somewhat flatter than the '79 and '80 2F curves. Their curve is similar to the old 18R-C advancer curve.
I do have a good supply of new NipponDenso single diaphragm advancers with advance curves that overlay the FJ60 primary advance curve almost exactly. They're posted in the For Sale forum.
I have two dual diaphragm advancers from the same Toyota engine, but with different NipponDenso part numbers than the above - also different advance characteristics. They may be from a later (or earlier) year. Their primary diaphragm advance curve is much flatter than the FJ60 curve, and somewhat flatter than the '79 and '80 2F curves. Their curve is similar to the old 18R-C advancer curve.
I do have a good supply of new NipponDenso single diaphragm advancers with advance curves that overlay the FJ60 primary advance curve almost exactly. They're posted in the For Sale forum.
I successfully rebuilt mine with new diaphragm rubber from Mcmaster Carr. Peeled open the housing with an air chisel, annealed the metal and put it all back together with new rubber. Works great.
How did you anneal the metal?
Propane torch, heat it until red and let it slowly cool. If you can follow the earlier video of the guy who opened a advancer up and smeared silicone on it, then you can do it. I prefer new rubber instead of silicone on old rubber. I used a little smear of silicone around the edges to make sure the new rubber seals to the metal.
That squarish T shaped peice sticking out the diaphram cup, it unscrews from the main advancer rod. Clamp the advancer rod in a vise and unscrew that T shaped peice that locks into the high altitude diaphram.... and you can remove your original diaphram and replace it with new rubber from Mcmaster Carr.