URGENT: Towing an FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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Shims are not there to fix the pinion angle, they are there to fix the caster.
 
Thanks guys, looks like my shims are backwards, i'll flip em and see if that fixes it.
 
That also makes me wonder, should the rear shims be pointed toward shackles, or is that different?
 
Dude, what are you towing it with? What's it weigh? Over 2 tons, yes? No fancy trailer brakes?

If you're not towing with a motorhome, or at least a big dually, any braking under less-than-ideal conditions on a turn will result in the "pitt maneuver" as it is called by police. Let's hope you're not going 40 down a mountain road when this happens. Ask me how I know...

You can test this in a gravel lot going about 10mph.

I don't know about the tcase in a 62, but a one-piece or split case won't lube the output shaft bearings properly when being towed in neutral and it will grenade in a very short time. Search around the '40 board for instances. You have to remove your drive shaft (or drive plates on a ff) and make sure the front end is unlocked.
 
why remove rear shaft ?????? tranfer case in n should do it ....unlimited speed tow
 
I don't know about the tcase in a 62, but a one-piece or split case won't lube the output shaft bearings properly when being towed in neutral and it will grenade in a very short time. Search around the '40 board for instances. You have to remove your drive shaft (or drive plates on a ff) and make sure the front end is unlocked.

I have towed 40's 60's and Runners for thousands of miles flat without removing the rear DS. The gears spin just fine and lubricate things.

All of those trucks were manuals, but if the tcase is in Neutral, an auto should not have an issue either..

Jeeps tend to have this problem..

As for rear shims.. Most lifts don't need them. I kinda doubt that you need them either.
If you do have them, they are for getting the pinion angle the same as the tcase output angle.. They will not affect towing.
 
why remove rear shaft ?????? tranfer case in n should do it ....unlimited speed tow


With the T-case in neutral it is really disengaged from the input shaft in an automatic?

I have always heard that on rigs with Autos you should remove the rear drive shaft and put it in neutral on long hauls.

NuclearLemon posted something regarding this.

We need a Poser decision on this.
 
If the tcase is in neutral, you can have the auto in park and the car will still roll away.

Neutral physically disconnects the tranny output from the driveshafts.

But, like I said, I have never towed a LC with an auto. And removing the rear DS is a simple procedure/insurance :)
 
I have been told by the dealer and the guys at SOR, and its in the Owners Manual to disconnect the rear DS at the rear diff. I don't totally understand why, but I guess something still needs to be lubed even if the Tcase is in N...
 
Well, got my alignment redone yesterday, flipped the caster shims the right way, and what do you know...it drives better! My wife was incredibly pleased. Gonna do another test tow tonight...i'll bet it'll follow just fine! I post tomorrow, thanks for all the advice!
 
I have always understood the autos to be different than the manuals. Here is another thread on this topic going now.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/218732-can-someone-explain-me.html

It states that in a 60 with the tcase in neutral that the front drive shaft turns unless you have done the 2wd low mod. You can test this by putting tcase in N and with the front hubs unlocked try turning the front drive shaft. They state that you cant.
 
IT TOWS!!!!!!!!

Fixing the caster was the issue, tows like it was meant to be towed. We only did a test around the block, high speed later this week...yikes. We swerved and stopped and all sorts of crazy manuevers, tracks great! Thanks again for all your support and answered questions!
 
BTW, previous#'s we're -4.7 degrees on both sides, yikes!
 

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