URGENT: Towing an FJ62

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Towing an FJ62: Now not so urgent...

Well in short, my FJ62 doesn't tow well. I fab'd a great tow bar, mounts to the frame, got everything figured out...I thought. Here's what happens. Pulls straight no problem, but as soon as the tow vehicle what to make a turn, the 62 tires want to stay straight. For example if the tow vehicle turns right, the cruiser wants to stay straight, so the tires turn hard left, and never come around, they just drag.

I found this out on a test tow, never even made it out of the parking lot we were in. Anyone with advice would be much appreciated. I really hope someone has experienced this before and can tell me exactly what the problem is...I know that is wishful thinking.

FJ62: 3" Lift, 33" BFG, new TRE's, rebuilt Steering Gear Box, both knuckles recently rebuilt.

I imagine their is something wrong with my suspension, but I can't figure it out.

Thanks
 
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D'Animal

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I'm gonna guess the 3" lift is throwing you off or that you are locking your steering wheel. I cannot flat tow my FJ40 since I have a lift and have not done a Cut and Turn on it.

When flat towing you have to make really wide turns so your wheels do not turn further on you.
 
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I'm not locking the steering wheel, it's set up the way that the Owners manual says. Key in ACC, Trsfr in H2, Trans in N.
 
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Here is how I did it with my60, 62 &40.

turn the engine on, (this just to know exactly where the key position is) Turn the motor off.. TURN THE KEY ALL THE WAY BACK TO COMPLETE "OFF". do not pull the key out of the ignition. The wheel will not lock until the key is pulled out. I never towed with mine in ACC (though the manual does say to do it). Jack up the front end or just hand crank the steering wheel to assure it does not lock..none of mine ever did, fj60-fj62 and 1979 fj40 (I think the 40 had steering lock on it too?)

DO CHECK OUT THAT IT DOES NOT LOCK BY TURNING THE WHEEL AROUND...WHEN THE KEY COMES OUT IT WILL LOCK ON THE NEXT TURN.

if you have auto hubs make sure they are free...by backing it up some then check that the axle is not engaged..she won't tow very well if the front axle is engaged.

You need to have the transfer in neutral so that the auto transmission is not turning while being towed..it will burn up. It seems that it did not matter what gear the auto was in because it should not be turning if the transfer is in neutral. You'd better check all this out...or you'll loose the tranny. (it seems the last heep auto I had I towed it with the transfer in neutral and the auto in Park) a quick search on a heep forum will tell you..and the boys at CCOT use to haul 62s all over texas by towing them..they would know too>


EDIT#2

Sounds like your front axle is still engaged..that will stop the wheels from following the tractor rig however,..I didn't see that you had the lift..you may be screwed..usually the lift throws off the bumper height and the wheels want to turn the opposite way of the way you are turning..I've always heard that lifts throw off the flat towing deal..so now..I gotta say...I dunno?
 
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KLF

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I flat-towed an empty mini-truck frame once. It did exactly like you descibe, the front tires would not track, and would HOWL when I was going around a parking lot (got some funny looks in that Bob Evan's parking lot). The only way I could get it to track properly was to disconnect the draglink from the steering box. It towed perfectly after that, over 500 miles.
 
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Did the alignment shop give you a printout of the alignment specs? Chances are they only adjusted for toe.

Search for "caster shims" here on mud...I THINK you'll need the alignment print to determine which degree shim to buy and install. There are others more qualified than I on this...maybe they will chime in.

Good luck, and please don't tow the truck until it is resolved. I may be driving the other way...:eek:
 
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I flat-towed an empty mini-truck frame once. It did exactly like you descibe, the front tires would not track, and would HOWL when I was going around a parking lot (got some funny looks in that Bob Evan's parking lot). The only way I could get it to track properly was to disconnect the draglink from the steering box. It towed perfectly after that, over 500 miles.

I don't understand what disconnecting the drag link would do?

NJTaco: Alignment shop did give the specs, but I'm not sure what they adjusted.
 
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When I did the lift, I put in caster shims. Assumed that they were the right ones. Got my lift from SOR, kit came with the shims.
 
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When I did the lift, I put in caster shims. Assumed that they were the right ones. Got my lift from SOR, kit came with the shims.

They can differ but it should of at least got you close. If you look on the sheet from your alignment, and give us the caster angle we can tell you if it is close. They adjusted the toe if it was off when they did your alignment and the drag link so it steers straight.
 
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I don't remember what the numbers were, and I cannot locate the sheet. I get the feeling that I should probably just use a tow dolly.
 

Mace

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Caster is off, when you put the shims in you put them with the fat end towards the front of the truck right?

Tie the steering wheel straight and you can get away with it.
 
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Caster is off, when you put the shims in you put them with the fat end towards the front of the truck right?

Tie the steering wheel straight and you can get away with it.

What should I use to secure it, and what should I secure it to? Have you done this? can I go 60 mph like that?
 

Mace

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rope works fine.

Bungee cords work too.

I like to secure it to the brake pedal

which direction did you put the shims in?
 

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