Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[White Stripe]

I am following this thread very closely. I somehow have not seen this thread yet depiste having searched exstensvily. I as well have a early 80 and I am switching many things over from a 97.

have two locking axles I was going to rehab and then swap but haven’t started yet. How did you wire up the locker lights? You have the pins to the cluster plug and then wires from there to the Ecu? Where did you get the pins?

-I bought a 93 cluster and took it apart and swapped idiot light panels, the 92 cluster has the holes for the bulbs for the lockers, but no locker light indicator. By swapping the little panel that was fixed. If u follow the circuit board on the back you will see on the 92 cluster that the light circuits for the locker lights go to pin blanks. I stole some pins from the 93(I had the pigtails from the 93 cluster, the guy just cut the harness about 12" from the plugs rather than unplug the cluster)that were close but not quite right. They didn't quite want to hold in the 92 plug, so a few dabs of superglue gel fixed that so they will stay. The pins I stole have about 12" of wire which I will splice to eventually .

Besides the brakes any other surprises in swapping the axles? Anything you wish you would have done looking back before the swap or “while youn were at it”?

-One brake line on the front will need to be swapped from your old front axle. The rear parking brake cable from the drums I thought would work on the discs-but its too long. So I need to get a new cable. EBay has them cheap. I also got a used master cylinder from a disc brake cruiser, had to tweak the lines to make them fit it. I used wheel spacers to fit the 15s. One thing I wish I did different is I wish I had bought a new lsp valve, mine was leaking, I took it apart and cleaned it up, that took a while and slowed me down. I also wish I had gotten the axles sand blasted, but I'm on a time crunch as the old axles sold faster than I thought and needed to have them off very soon for the new owner.

Did you pull the locker wires from the donnar loom or did you make new sores to run form axles to Ecu?

-I did not get the whole harness, I just got the pigtails. So I will have to splice into the pigtails and run my own wires.


The rig looks great by the way. Very impressed.
Thanks man.

 

[White Stripe]

Trying to fix this swap has snowballed, but Im pressing on. The 700r4 was making a rod knock type noise. The PO would lend this rig out to his relatives for towing. It has a seperate toggle switch on the dash for torque converter lockup. I think one of his relatives left the torque converter lockup on. The trans pump is shot and making the rod knock noise and the torque converter is all screwed up. So rather than fix the 700r4, and since I have yet to reflash the ecu for the new emissions I added back on, I might as well install a 4l60e. It will provide better fuel mileage anyway with the motor and trans being ecu controlled. So here is the rebuilt 4l60e I bought. I also ordered a shifter cable and housing extension. I saved 100 bucks getting the housing extension/6 to 4 bolt adapter from jags that run vs marks 4wd.

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Generation III External Engine - 4l60e transmission wiring question. - I'm doing a LM7 with the 4L60E tranny swap into my 1977 C10 truck. I'm planning on using the neutral safety and backup switch that's mounted on my steering column. Do I need the range selector switch at all on the...

ls1tech.com

Pin 41 had a wire already on it from previous owners harness, I am unplugging it and using my own wire run to trans connector. May need pin 75 and may not, will try and see without.

 

[White Stripe]

Getting the wiring set for the 4l60e. I'm going to use the Dakota digital unit for the shift indicator lights. I think I'll use the neutral safety switch for the reverse lights. The red/black wire on the shift indicator lamp connects to the reverse lights.

Wiring TRD elockers with an FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch

 

[White Stripe]

Wired up the other dakota digital module for the dash shift lights and the reverse lights. Both modules are secured to the cruise control with heavy duty velcro. They need to be removable for programming. I think I'll work on wiring the locker ecu next b4 reinstalling the dash pad.

 

[White Stripe]

Working on the locker wiring now. 3 wires to the switch, and I added another key on fuse circuit in the stock dash fuse box which will power the lockers and hopefully the seats heating/cooling if I don't get burned out n sell it. The factory mounting studs for the locker ecu are in the kick panel just like they were in the 96' cruiser I pulled it from. Need to splice into the locker lights pigtails and route the wires. I'm sick of wiring, I just wired a underfloor battery, gm alternator, aux fans, and air conditioning in my 40 series in addition to the wiring I've done to the 80-much of which has been redoing redneck wiring and mistakes.

 

[Heckraiser]

ditching the 700r4 was a good move, IMO. Looking forward to 4L60 vs 700r4 driving impressions when you're done

 

[White Stripe]

ditching the 700r4 was a good move, IMO. Looking forward to 4L60 vs 700r4 driving impressions when you're done

It will be kind of a unfair comparison I think being that this 700r4 is so trashed. The torque converter input bushing is way bad so it vibrates the whole truck and the pump is on its way out and makes a rod knock noise. I agree its a good move, I should get much better fuel mileage since the trans will be ecu controlled. My bank account did not like it though, cost quite a bit to change over.

 

[74fj40]

You have definitely been busy with both your cruisers, but I’m sure you will appreciate the final product. Even if the final product is a big fat lump of cash

 

[White Stripe]

Painted the dash.
Before and after...

 

[White Stripe]

Wiring going behind the dash is done...I think. I like the interior colors I did, hard for them to show up right in a photo. Seems pretty durable within reason. For the lockers their are basically 5 wires that run across to the locker ecu. The lockers are wired to a new circuit I added to the factory dash fuse box with a 30 amp fuse as the stock 80 series wiring diagram specifies for the circuit. Factory locker switch is wired. I set the dash pad in for now to get it out of the way. Hopefully I wont have to pull it out, but its not bolted or anything. I also remove the center console, will have to remove the shifter bezel and modify it for the shift cable and get rid of the cheesy linkage the previous owner used for the 700r4. The linkage is horrendous, it looks like Ray Charles did it after a half bottle of whiskey. The throw is also way off right now, when in D on the shift gate you are actually in 1st.

I also cut the shaft on the 4l60e and added the 6 to 4 bolt adapter from marks 4wd that is needed for the 4l60e. These instructions can be found on advance adapters web site. Jags that Run has this adapter listed on their web site for half the price (155.00)of marks4wd, so I ordered one originally. After a month I called to see when it was going to ship, the owner said he would lose money if he sold them that cheap and has to find a vendor to make them for him. Not sure why its listed on your website for a price you can't really sell it for and have yet to make any. I was upset but just kindly asked for my money back and got the marks4wd one from austrailia which arrived in less than a week.

1993 LS Swap (6.0L LQ4 and built 4L60e)

 

[White Stripe]

Pulled the old trans. Here's a pic of some of the crappy linkage...

Swapped over the adapters. Did a new rear main seal on the motor while its apart. I test fit the 4l60e bellhousing since it looks bigger in diameter to make sure it clears the cats, it does thankfully. Added some heat wrap around the brake lines closest to the cat and to the trans tunnel. For the shift cable bracket, it will bolt to the underside of the trans tunnel rather than to the shift cover plate to reduce cutting the trans tunnel more. I also plugged the hole in the rubber from the stock linkage with a tire patch lol. Worked good. Tomorrow I should stab the trans in the morning hopefully.

 

[74fj40]

Looking good!

 

[White Stripe]

Swapping to the new trans fid not go smoothly. I tried to plan ahead but kept running into more stuff to modify and had to redesign some things. Anyway it's in. Just have to pin the ecu wires which is about 25 wires. The shift cable made the shifter much smoother, and the shift gate lines up like factory toyota did. Adding the ecu pins will take a few hours.

Here it is all bolted together.

Running the Trans wire harness and figuring out the shifter.

 

[White Stripe]

Got it fired up. Got little confused with some of the pins but some mud members helped. Need to do a little bit of testing n see if it all checks out.

 

[White Stripe]

Programmed the dakota digital unit and got the shifter indicator working. Drove up to my relatives shop with it and I'm really in love with the LS motor. Black bear did such a awesome job on the tune and shift points. I let my relative drive it, he isn't much of a 80 guy(he's a 60s guy and thinks 80s are ugly) and he really liked it. The feel of the 80 series combined with the smoothness and power of the 5.3 is a really nice balance.

 

[White Stripe]

I'm surprised how much stuff for LS motors is available for parts that are made by denso. Had a check engine light for a bad secondary o2 sensor. Replaced with a denso and it's good now. I'm going to replace all the sensors with denso now. Also got a denso AC compressor and hoses in preparation for hooking up the ac. In addition I pulled the condenser and flushed it since it's been unhooked for a while. The stock trans cooler is held on by about 47 bolts, so without a air ratchet this would be much slower. Condenser is back on. Next is your install new compressor and have the two kinds of hoses joined.

 

[White Stripe]

Been driving the rig a lot. @74fj40 came and took it for a spin to test it out. My power steering pump has been making a bit of noise so I drained the reservoir and added fresh fluid and added a bit of moly which quieted it up. I also have been hearing what sounds like an exhaust leak but it's actually my pcv valve. So I got one of those coming and new idler/tensioner pulleys coming. Went for a 26 mile drive up a curvy mountain freeway and back 26 miles so 52 miles round trip. Was a driving mix of getting on it doing like 80mph and taking it easy doing like 55mph. I got 18MPG Really had no idea what fuel mileage would be as reports vary by a lot. Needle is still on Full. I think 20 or 21 is possible if I took it easy but man that's hard to do. With stock ride height, at 80mph it feels like your doing 55. Really cruises nice and cant tell a shock is blown. Tires need to be balanced, and birfields are clicking like crazy in turns. So I got some maintenance to get to eventually but I'm pretty happy with it.

 

[White Stripe]

Did the engine gauge temp mod. Turned out good. I also wired in some led strips for better gauge lighting. Here is a pic making sure they work...

 

[White Stripe]

Did a little work to interior. The shift bezel was pretty bad looking. I used raptor on the top part.

 

[White Stripe]

Center console is done. Used a newer gen lid. Also installed a new cruise control speed sensor and got the front locker wired up. Wiring them is pretty straight forward. I grounded the speed wire for simplicity. I know better to not engage them I high speed. A few wires need to be tied together. Make sure u get the diagram for the year your parts came off of. Wire colors change for different years. Think I'm going to have to replace the front birfields, they are the worst clacking ones I've heard.