Wiring TRD elockers with an FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch (1 Viewer)

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OK, I'm going to try to write this up as logically as possible for the FAQ. Please let me finish all the posts before you reply with comments.

I decided to install TRD elockers front and rear with 4.56 gearing in my 1985 4Runner. Although there are many good ways to wire and control the elockers, I wanted to use an 80 switch and ECU as I thought that would be really cool. Also, I own a 1997 FZJ80 with elockers and thought a bit of consistency in my life wouldn't be a bad thing....:D

Here are the parts that I bought/acquired:

41110-3D010 - TRD elocker, 4.56 ratio - quantity 2
42181-60050 - elocker gasket - quantity 2
90116-08330 - elocker long studs - quantity 4
82127-35100 - elocker harness - quantity 2

FZJ80 elocker ECU (mine was from a 1997)
FZJ80 elocker ECU switch (either '96 or '97)
Pigtails with about 12" of wiring for the ECU and switch - very important!!

30' of 6 conductor, 14 AWG, trailer cord
2 elocker motor guards from Marlin Crawler
1 tube of Toyota red FIPG
2 red LED's from 12Voltguy

I'm not going to go into all of the mechanical part of the installation as that is well documented. I did rebuild both axles while they were apart and I also completely stripped (wire cup on side grinder), steam cleaned, and painted both axles with POR15 and their Chassis Black topcoat.

The installation was fairly easy if you follow the write-ups. I did have trouble installing the front diff as there was not enough room for the rearmost U-bolt as the clearance between the Elocker and the spring perch was too tight. I wound up having the U-bolt shaved on one side by 1/8". I don't think it will be an issue as it was one of the large, grade 8, U-bolts that was supplied with my OME lift kit. You also need to replace the top elocker sensor bolt with a tapered-head screw so that the top can be countersunk. I will show a pic or two of that in a moment.

Here are some pics of the parts:
elocker ECU and switch 1 small.JPG
elocker harness small.JPG
elocker on bench small.JPG
 
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Here are some installed photos before we go on to the wiring...

The last photo shows the front elocker installed on the axle with the countersunk bolt and a good view of the spring perch but without the U-bolt or spring.
front elocker installed 1 small.jpg
Rear elocker 1 small.JPG
front elocker clearance 3 small.JPG
 
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I used the following FZJ80 elocker ECU wiring diagrams to help with the wiring. These are not the ones that I referenced in an earlier thread on this subject. I realized when I started wiring that the colors from my previous investigation did not match the ECU that I had in my hand. Luckily I had the FSM and wiring diagrams for my 1997 FZJ80 and saw that they actually matched those. I don't know what year the earlier referenced diagrams are from but I'm guessing it's maybe a '93 or '94 and that they changed the wiring colors slightly in either '95 or '96.

Here is a link to the earlier thread which talks about this wiring. I will go into that thread and make a note that the wiring colors may be different if you use an earlier 80 ECU:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html#post3020016

I also found that the TRD elocker wire colors do not match the Landcruiser elockers but the attached table is what I used to sort out that issue:
FZJ80ECU1.jpg
FZJ80ECU2.jpg
Elocker ECU cross wiring.jpg
 
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If you look at the table (last photo above), I was basically trying to decipher the 16 pins (16 wires) on the 80 elocker ECU, the two 8 pin connectors on the TRD elockers (7 wires), the switch and two LED's.

Starting with the Rear elocker, I cut the 8 pin connector off the wiring harness and wired the 7 wires (one pin isn't used) to the 6 conductor trailer wire as shown. The trailer wire colors were arbitrarily assigned. Your wire may have different colors.

As an example, you can see that the Yellow-Blue (yellow with a blue stripe) was connected to the brown wire on the trailer wire. You will notice that there are two White-B (white with a black stripe) out of the 7 elocker wires. These were wired together to the black trailer wire.

I used special butt connectors for all of these connections that you crimp and then heat. They have heat shrink tubing and a solder pellet integral to the connector. I then put two layers of heavy wall, adhesive lined, heat shrink tubing over the outside of everything. I know that this was a bit obsessive but $50 in connectors seemed like small change at the time.

I then did the same for the front elocker and both trailer cords were then pulled to the elocker ECU.

I chose to mount the elocker ECU just below the fuse panel located in the driver's side kick panel. If you have cruise control then you will probably not have room to mount your panel there. In my 4Runner, there was an aftermarket cruise control ECU in this location which I removed. You can see the pigtail and connector for the cruise control hanging down in one of the photos.

I routed the rear trailer cord up and over the gas tank and then followed the brake lines up into the engine compartment on the passenger side. I then went into the passenger side, behind the AC vents through an existing grommet (see photo). The wires went up, along the top of the AC ducting, over (but behind) the instrument cluster and down into the driver's side kick panel. I had to take apart my dash to do this but I was taking it apart anyway as I was installing a new (used) dash pad.

The front elocker trailer cord basically went straight up and to the right where it also went through this grommet and followed the same path. It was a tight fit through the grommet as this trailer cord OD is almost 1/2" but I got it to go. A bit of warning, this routing (front and rear) took quite a bit of wire and I must have used at least 25' of the 6 conductor trailer cord in the end.

Here are some pics:
elocker ECU installed 2 small.JPG
elocker wire routing 1 small.JPG
 
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Now I could at this point walk through every wiring connection with an explanation but you should be able to figure it out if you print out the two FZJ80 wiring diagram pages and the table that I created.

A few notes however. I pulled power from the engine compartment using 14 AWG protected by a 20A fuse which goes through a 30A Bosch relay before going to the elocker ECU. The relay is also located in the kick panel above the ECU and the solenoid side is fed from ignition-on power out of the fuse panel located in the kick panel. That way there is no power going to the elocker ECU until the ignition is turned on.

There are several ground wires listed (5 in fact). I bundled them together and connected one wire to a body ground in the kick panel.

I will attach one last photo of the wiring just before I tested the elockers and before I heated all of the connections to shrink the heatshrink tubing and solder. I don't have a photo with the kick panel reinstalled but all of this wiring easily tucked out of the way and is not hindering access to the fuse panel.

What amazed me is that it absolutely worked perfectly and it worked on the first try.

The lockers behave exactly like the lockers on my 80. When you turn the switch the LED (or LEDs if you turn the switch to front and rear) start to blink and then go solid when the locker locks. In other words, the LEDs function exactly like the instrument panel indicators on my 80.

I haven't really field tested them yet as I was doing too much other work on the 4Runner while in the US (and we are now back in England). I did drive the 4Runner quite a bit while we were home and the 4.56 gearing is really nice. I can maintain 80 mph on the interstate (as long as it's flat!) and the speedometer seems to be more or less correct with the 31" BFG tires.

If you want lockers and don't mind spending the money, this is one slick way to do it. I think I paid $125 for the switch, ECU and pigtails (from 2 different sources) and I thought that was pretty good value for what I got.

Anyway, hope this write-up helps others in the future and many, many thanks again to all those that helped me along the way with advice.
elocker ECU installed 3 small.JPG
 
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Hopefully I haven't left too many essential details out. I'm done and happy to turn the thread loose at this point. Thanks for your patience (although I assume most of you were asleep while I was writing this as I'm 6 hours ahead of CST)...

:cheers:
 
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Looks nice.. I also run elockers, have for years.. as your set up will work great I have found over the 7 years of running them that all the factory stuff is not needed and just a alot of expence that can be avoided.. I have run the 12voltguy.com - Home stuff for 4 years now with zero propblems.. very simple and extremely dependable with much less cost.. not knocking your set up just showing others a good option.. Nice runner :D
 
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Looks nice.. I also run elockers, have for years.. as your set up will work great I have found over the 7 years of running them that all the factory stuff is not needed and just a alot of expence that can be avoided.. I have run the 12voltguy.com - Home stuff for 4 years now with zero propblems.. very simple and extremely dependable with much less cost.. not knocking your set up just showing others a good option.. Nice runner :D

I think he makes very nice stuff but I have to disagree on the cost. I spent $125 for the ECU, swtich and pigtails plus another $40 on wire.

Unless I'm reading his website wrong, the 12Voltguy switchs are $44.95 each and the wiring harnesses are $99.00 each. With shipping, that's more or less $300 dollars or roughly twice what I spent.

Correction: I did have to buy the 2 factory harnesses but they were only $30 each. Not sure if you need those with 12Voltguys setup.
 
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I think he makes very nice stuff but I have to disagree on the cost. I spent $125 for the ECU, swtich and pigtails plus another $40 on wire.

Unless I'm reading his website wrong, the 12Voltguy switchs are $44.95 each and the wiring harnesses are $99.00 each. With shipping, that's more or less $300 dollars or roughly twice what I spent.

Correction: I did have to buy the 2 factory harnesses but they were only $30 each. Not sure if you need those with 12Voltguys setup.

note: you did a nice job:)

Thought I would answer for others that may want to purchase, my kits are an option
I have a banner add over here, just not on here much;)
price is $44.99 for a panel,=$8.99 shipping not just a switch, I sell switches & LEDs separately if wanted
harness is $99, std or HP 11' OR 15' longer or shorter if needed
no need to buy a factory shorty harness for $39+ship and cut it up.
Total 1 kit $152.98
plug-N-play, it's just that easy
I have been making dual kit deals at $275-$14.99 shipping
no wiring involved really, just tap in power
I buy the factory plugs at the diff & put them on, there are no splices, harness is 1 piece.
no relays involved, been doing these for years and have not seen the need, amp draw when I test these, & I test each complete unit on my 4runner before shipping, amp draw less then 3a
I suggest a 10a fuse in case a load on locker draws more
on the bench a motor draws under 2a
I made this kit to save people the hassles of splicing wires, it's as easy as plugging in 4 wires at the switch, & connecting the 2 plugs at the diff:cheers:
 
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Thanks for clarifying that. Like I said, you make nice stuff and I did buy my LEDs from you. :D

I would have heavily considered using your kit but I wanted the FZJ80 switch and ECU. As I got them for a reasonable price, cost wasn't an issue. Most people won't have the same affinity to the 80 switch and ECU but this thread is to show those that do how to do it.

Now....about those remote winch switch kits that you sell...but maybe that's next year's project. :cheers:
 
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Thanks for clarifying that. Like I said, you make nice stuff and I did buy my LEDs from you. :D

I would have heavily considered using your kit but I wanted the FZJ80 switch and ECU. As I got them for a reasonable price, cost wasn't an issue. Most people won't have the same affinity to the 80 switch and ECU but this thread is to show those that do how to do it.

Now....about those remote winch switch kits that you sell...but maybe that's next year's project. :cheers:

I thank you for your purchase too:cheers:
I'll be here next year too, swamped with work always, mostly why I don't post much over here, just the Banner, afraid of getting too much work:doh:
Pirate4x4 guys keep me busy, + all the events I sponsor, raffles, some rock crawler teams and rock racers, + just helped out sponsoring Marlin Crawler's F-toy with a panel, + there event MCR07 or 08 whatever # it's up too, gota go next year:steer:
 
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I'm planning on a mostly stock set up with stock switch and ecu, but wanted to double check on wire size from ecu to the locker motor... You used 14g for it all?

And stock set up has a 10A fuse feeding the locker switch, and a 20A feeding the ECU... Is that overkill? Could I run them both off of a 20A? Thanks! :cheers:
 
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I'm planning on a mostly stock set up with stock switch and ecu, but wanted to double check on wire size from ecu to the locker motor... You used 14g for it all?

And stock set up has a 10A fuse feeding the locker switch, and a 20A feeding the ECU... Is that overkill? Could I run them both off of a 20A? Thanks! :cheers:

Jerod, I used 6 conductor, 14g trailer cord which is about 1/2" diameter. It is very well insulated wire and I would recommend that you use trailer cord if you are routing the wire along the frame. I am sure that 6 conductor, 16g would be adequate as I don't think the current draw is more than a few amps when the motor is locking or unlocking.

The 80 circuit is 30A to the ECU and the single locker ECU circuit is 20A IIRC. The 10A circuit that you mention isn't really feeding the locker switch. It is the power to the instrument panel. The locker switch just makes a ground on that circuit which turns on the light. Of course it will see whatever the current draw of the bulb is.

That was a long way of saying, yes, 20A is fine and 10A for everything is probably OK as well.
 
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Right, the 10A feeds most of the idiot lights in the dash, and goes through the RR Diff indicator to the indicator switch on the locker.

How are the 4Runner/80 different from the Taco? The parts I have are out of a 97 4Runner, this 98 Taco FSM is the closest diagram I've found online. I sure don't want to fry something if they are different... Most of the wire colors have matched up....
 
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You're right, I think the only difference is the diagram presentation... Everything seems to sync between the taco and 4runner through most years, only differences have been a few wire color changes and the different 4wd options/control boxes... The 80 just has 2 switches, is fed by a 30A instead of a 20A and the dash lights are the same 10A fuse...

I think I'm on it now... Thanks! :D
 
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Good luck with it. What are you going to use for a locked indicator? The LED's that I bought from 12voltguy worked pretty well for me (and they are very inexpensive).
 

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