Upper or Lower rear control arms, which is best?

[OffRoadScott]

I am in the market for some adjustable control arms for the rear to help with the ongoing vibrations. Is there any benefit of going with both over either the uppers or lowers? I do plan on going with 37's in the future too, so is there any benefit of both when going with 37s?

What different manufactures do you prefer and why? Is there any benefit to the offset bushings?

 

[NLXTACY]

I’ve seen adjustables get pulled out o the trail and I’ve seen poly bushings get wrecked in under two years. I’m a huge fan of OEM bushings and non-adjustable. Not just saying that because I have a vested interest in the answer, it’s because I 100% believe it and no one has been able to point to a better setup.

 

[nukegoat]

I’ve seen adjustables get pulled out o the trail and I’ve seen poly bushings get wrecked in under two years. I’m a huge fan of OEM bushings and non-adjustable. Not just saying that because I have a vested interest in the answer, it’s because I 100% believe it and no one has been able to point to a better setup.

Semi parallel 4 links need a lot of bushing compliance to survive

But adjustable links should be fine. What separated?

 

[NLXTACY]

Semi parallel 4 links need a lot of bushing compliance to survive

But adjustable links should be fine. What separated?

There are now four instances I know of where the adjustable links separated. Meaning the screw end pulled from the internally threaded end.

 

[nukegoat]

There are now four instances I know of where the adjustable links separated. Meaning the screw end pulled from the internally threaded end.

Probably not jam nutted properly, or they were using some 1/4-20 inserts

 

[Jgrauman]

I am in the market for some adjustable control arms for the rear to help with the ongoing vibrations. Is there any benefit of going with both over either the uppers or lowers? I do plan on going with 37's in the future too, so is there any benefit of both when going with 37s?

What different manufactures do you prefer and why? Is there any benefit to the offset bushings?

What problems are you trying to solve? Pinion angle? Centering the axle in the wheel well? Just want added strength?

 

[Heckraiser]

If you've got an OME lift, I'm guessing your vibes are probably not caused by rear pinion angle. Have you replaced your u-joints?

 

[Corbet]

I went the Landtank longer lower route with no regrets. I was tired of bending OEM lowers so it solved 2 problems at once.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I’ve seen adjustables get pulled out o the trail and I’ve seen poly bushings get wrecked in under two years. I’m a huge fan of OEM bushings and non-adjustable. Not just saying that because I have a vested interest in the answer, it’s because I 100% believe it and no one has been able to point to a better setup.

Yeah I have heard of poly bushings wearing out quickly. That is one reason I went with caster plates versus the Slee caster correction bushings. Plus I didn't wanna deal with pushing the bushing out too.

 

[OffRoadScott]

What problems are you trying to solve? Pinion angle? Centering the axle in the wheel well? Just want added strength?

I am getting a vibration in the driveline, I am sure it has to do with the front but I wanna tackle the rear at the same time. While browsing the forums I have seen some threads where people tackle the front and still have the same issues and it is the rear driveshaft as well.

 

[OffRoadScott]

If you've got an OME lift, I'm guessing your vibes are probably not caused by rear pinion angle. Have you replaced your u-joints?

No I have not replaced the U joints but that is on my list. I need to get them but need to get prices from Toyota.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I went the Landtank longer lower route with no regrets. I was tired of bending OEM lowers so it solved 2 problems at once.

I will look into them. I am looking at the Metal Tech upper/lower adjustable control arms.

 

[Jgrauman]

I am getting a vibration in the driveline, I am sure it has to do with the front but I wanna tackle the rear at the same time. While browsing the forums I have seen some threads where people tackle the front and still have the same issues and it is the rear driveshaft as well.

You pulled one shaft at a time to narrow it down first? Just trying to figure out your issue before giving a solution. I had a DC rear and corrected pinion angle for the DC with extended uppers. I just sleeved the factory with some DOM tube I had laying around. Sleeving the factory if you have the skills to do so is, in my opinion, the best way to go.

 

[OffRoadScott]

You pulled one shaft at a time to narrow it down first? Just trying to figure out your issue before giving a solution. I had a DC rear and corrected pinion angle for the DC with extended uppers. I just sleeved the factory with some DOM tube I had laying around. Sleeving the factory if you have the skills to do so is, in my opinion, the best way to go.

No, I have not pulled either yet. No time to, no days off in the last 3 weeks. I am looking hard at those Land Tank rear lowers that @NLXTACY sells.

 

[Marco Lau]

i went with Joey's/Landtank's 4" HD lower control arm with factory bushings. They come with over-sized ends and i have wheeled them hard, and they have held up extremely well. The larger ends help protect the frame mount from rock damage. They also corrected my rear pinion angle.

 

[Box Rocket]

Rather than just say "the XYZ arms I have are awesome" I'll try to share some actual info to support my thoughts.
I've had a couple different sets of rear arms on my truck, both of which have been very good and I'd recommend to anyone. The Trail Tailor rear arms, and the Blackhawk HD rear arms. If you're changing rear arms, get some that are heavy duty first of all and will resist bending when hit on obstacles. After that, look at the bushing setup. You need a good amount of flex at the bushing location because the arms are parrallel. Poly bushings in both ends is not ideal since they don't allow enough range of motion (for very long) and will disintegrate more quickly. If you do non-adjustable arms, my experience has been best with OEM rubber bushings. I haven't had any issues with adjustable arms, but the adjustment point is something you need to check periodically to make sure the jam nuts are tight.

I should mention that with either of these and probably some others as well it may be necessary to enlarge the slot in the bottom of the upper frame mount. This is a stock one with an unmodified slot. I just went at it with a grinder when I pulled the arms out and made the slot opening wider to clear the larger diameter arms. This picture is taken underneath and looking up at the floor of the truck. (Upper control arm, frame bracket)
IMG_7029 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

The Blackhawk arms are sweet and that's what I have now. The lowers are HD (non-adjustable) arms that are 11mm longer than stock to move the axle back to center in the wheel arch on a lifted truck. Will also help correct pinion angle. OEM Rubber bushings in both ends. The Uppers are adjustable (on the truck) to fine tune pinion angle and have double jam nuts and rubber bushings in both ends.
IMG_2018 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2021 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2109 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

The Trail Tailor rear arms are also really good but take a little different approach to handle flex and rotation. I'll mention here that these arms pictured were one of the first sets from Trail Tailor that I was doing some testing on. The design of the uppers have changed slightly and have a machined "hex" section in the middle of the arm so you can get a wrench on them to adjust them on the truck. They use a poly bushing at one end that really is just for isolating chassis vibration. Flex is all handled by the HD Johnny Joint at the other end of the arm. The Johnny Joint makes it so the poly bushing doesnt need to have rotational flex and will therefore last much longer. Because the Johnny Joints are threaded into bungs in the arms it makes the uppers and lowers adjustable. Lowers can only be adjusted off the vehicle but the uppers can be adjust on the truck. I ran these for a while before the Blackhawk arms and I really liked them. Good product.
IMG_2123 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

TT lower compared to stock lower.
IMG_6175 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

TT upper compared to stock upper
IMG_6177 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Blackhawk lower and TT lower
IMG_2107 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

TT upper and Blackhawk upper
IMG_2108 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_6182 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Good flex with the Trail Tailor arms. (3" Slinky Long Travel suspension)
IMG_7588 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_7584 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Plenty of flex allowed with the Blackhawk arms with rubber bushings as well. (3" Slinky Long Travel suspension)
IMG_0630 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

You can see the twist in the rubber bushings when flexed. Been really happy with the Blackhawk arms.
37’s and bumpstops by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[PabloVTA]

I've wrecked the original rear lowers, went to Slee HD's with my 6" Lift, bent those a few times too many and now am running the Trail Tailors in the rear. Really cool set up. He makes a frame side drop out skid plate too, I wish I had those years ago, since to get them on, i'll be doing some interesting material massaging. For the Rear Uppers I had to use Man A Fre's and the bushings are toast. I'll be getting Trail Tailors for the matchy matchy soon.

In front, I use the Slee arms, they are awesome. I've gone thru three sets of OEM bushings in 10 years. I ran the original blue Poly's for a year, but Rubithon made quick work of those.
I've also upgraded the Sway Bars to Whiteline HD, since I run a huge RTT and lots of beer and tacos in the fridge. My runs typically require hours on the hwy at 70MPH , then I get to have fun, and then I need to drive all the way home, so comfort and safety go in hand in hand.

@LandCruiserPhil is making some cool Sway bar drops that I'm looking forward to trying for the rear, for the front I've had the Slee disappear during the rubicon once, and run a set from Metal Tech now. Both equally as good. I use the LC Phil drop brackets to tuck the front out the way also.

 

[84shortyota]

All these aftermarket arms are cool, but before you go dropping a nice chunk of change on them...do you really NEED them? Stock rear arms hold up fine to moderate trails and are fine for lower lifts. I'm running 37's on stock arms with no issues as of yet. Would i like to have some nice shiny control arms? Sure, but i dont need them as of yet. Figure out what your issues is caused by, and go from there!

 

[shocktower]

I love my Metal Tech lowers I have enough lift and I needed them

 

[Box Rocket]

All these aftermarket arms are cool, but before you go dropping a nice chunk of change on them...do you really NEED them? Stock rear arms hold up fine to moderate trails and are fine for lower lifts. I'm running 37's on stock arms with no issues as of yet. Would i like to have some nice shiny control arms? Sure, but i dont need them as of yet. Figure out what your issues is caused by, and go from there!

If you need to correct pinion angle you need different arms, or....you have to modify stock ones. If you wheel anywhere that is more than dirt roads with large rocks and ledges, the stock arms bend easily when they get slammed against rocks or when climbing ledges. That's the reason to have something other than stock. I wheeled on stock arms for a while but they both had a pretty serious frown on them when they were removed.