Upper Control Arms / Bushing too loose

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1973Guppie

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Hi Guys,

hoping someone can help, just pressed out my 20 plus year old bushings on my upper control arms and it seems one of the ends is too wide. The new bushing simply pushes in and out the other end with hand pressure. I verified I have the right bushing part #'s and that end is the only one that is too loose, the others look like the bushings will press in just fine.

I am looking for any options on how to tighten up that one end so that the bushings sits as it should. My first thought was to weld in some metal inside the seating area and grind it down to give it some more meat.

If anyone has any opinions I would appreciate it. I gotta get this truck on the road my thursday.

Noah
 
Are the new bushings from Toyota or aftermarket?

they are toyota new bushings, I used sockets to push out the other ones, it's really weird, the new bushing literally wobbles in it
 
I've seen this before on bushings, it's nothing to be concerned about. You can use Loctite Bearing adhesive, deform the bushing sleeve a little, or try putting a strand of welding wire or similar in with the bushing to tighten it up. I wouldn't alter the cup in any way. You could also just install it as is, it will rust in place soon enough. It won't affect anything if it's not super tight.
 
... I used sockets to push out ...

My guess; the rounded edge of the socket can push inside of the bushing shell, flaring it outward, this can deform the arm. Press tools should have a square edge, or close to it. My first choice would be to use another arm, second, tack weld the bushing in place.
 
ah ok gotcha thx guys! can I just use red locktite?

I think you want Locktite 609 (?! See edit below).

Personally, I think I'd just use some RTV silicone. It would keep the bushing from rattling and wouldn't do much to prevent you from pressing it out again in the future. Plus, you probably already have it on your shelf. ;)

Edit: maybe it should be Loctite 680. According to a Google search, 609 is for gaps up to .005", while 680 is for gaps up to .015". That's a big "whew" for me, since I used 680 on my part time conversion spindle bearing!
 
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I think you want Locktite 609 (?! See edit below).

Personally, I think I'd just use some RTV silicone. It would keep the bushing from rattling and wouldn't do much to prevent you from pressing it out again in the future. Plus, you probably already have it on your shelf. ;)

Edit: maybe it should be Loctite 680. According to a Google search, 609 is for gaps up to .005", while 680 is for gaps up to .015". That's a big "whew" for me, since I used 680 on my part time conversion spindle bearing!

I think I will just use some jb weld, as I have it on hand, I don't plan to ever again remove these bushings, if they ever need replacing I will go aftermarket
 
I think I will just use some jb weld, as I have it on hand, I don't plan to ever again remove these bushings, if they ever need replacing I will go aftermarket

About ANY aftermarket bushing will outlast/outperform OEM.
 
About ANY aftermarket bushing will outlast/outperform OEM.

huh? you are saying aftermarket suspension bushings are better than OEM? that is not what I have read and / or experienced. Anyhow, I am installing OEM toyota parts....

when I said I will go aftermarket I meant that I will most likely buy brand new adjustable new uca's that bolt right in
 
Green loctite..
232110.jpg

FUwKpq
 
Someone hasn't had their coffee yet.
 
Loctite on a suspension bushing? wtf? Only if the vehicle is a museum piece. Get another arm and chalk this up to experience.
 
Loctite on a suspension bushing? wtf? Only if the vehicle is a museum piece. Get another arm and chalk this up to experience.

I agree.. they are like 25 bucks for a used arm that may already have good bushings.

I was just clarifying what green loctite was for retaining.
 

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