This is what I get for procrastinating. I gather these brackets are long long with no plans on returning?
Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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I finally had a chance to install the bracket and alternator this weekend since I'm not really a football fan. I just wanted to emphasize how great the quality is on Bill's bracket. From fitment to hardware and finish - it's all top notch. The directions were clear and install was straight forward. Thanks Bill.
The most time consuming for me was removal of everything: battery & tray, old alternator and tensioner assy.
In a close second was having the bushing sit flush on the top mount. What worked best for me was a 1/4" brass drift and a 22oz hammer. It really helped removing the oil filter and moving the oil dipstick - it gave me enough room to swing the hammer.
Anybody know if the pulley can be ordered new? I'd like to get a spare alternator and fit the correct pulley to it.
The most time consuming for me was removal of everything: battery & tray, old alternator and tensioner assy.
In a close second was having the bushing sit flush on the top mount. What worked best for me was a 1/4" brass drift and a 22oz hammer. It really helped removing the oil filter and moving the oil dipstick - it gave me enough room to swing the hammer.
Anybody know if the pulley can be ordered new? I'd like to get a spare alternator and fit the correct pulley to it.
27411-66040. Current published list price $40.10.
bad luck
Dammit...
Sorry, I just need to vent a little.
I bought the 150a alternator from one of the car-parts.com dealers, got it installed and everything was great. Not for long though. Shortly after my voltage started spiking at 16+ volts and dropping down to 12 volts. So I figure I got one with a bad regulator. No big deal - lifetime warranty from the seller. However the only one they have has 140000 miles.
I ordered a replacement from somewhere else in the meantime with 40k miles on it. It arrived today with a cracked plastic case with some jumbled insides - the result of UPS and poor packaging.
I want the 150a in my truck but I'm getting a little frustrated here.
Rant off....
Dammit...
Sorry, I just need to vent a little.
I bought the 150a alternator from one of the car-parts.com dealers, got it installed and everything was great. Not for long though. Shortly after my voltage started spiking at 16+ volts and dropping down to 12 volts. So I figure I got one with a bad regulator. No big deal - lifetime warranty from the seller. However the only one they have has 140000 miles.
I ordered a replacement from somewhere else in the meantime with 40k miles on it. It arrived today with a cracked plastic case with some jumbled insides - the result of UPS and poor packaging.
I want the 150a in my truck but I'm getting a little frustrated here.
Rant off....
NLXTACY
Wits' End
hate to say it but I've been in your shoes several times now. I have the new 150A alternator but I have NOT put it back on yet even though I've had it for months now. So I feel your pain.
I have problems with my "new" alternator. I am trying to get the pulley off the Alt I just bought off Ebay. While holding the pulley with a pipe wrench I can get the nut to turn but the pulley is spinning on the shaft while the Alt turns. The nut is not loosening. Is there any safe way to stop the Alt from spinning so I can remove the nut?
Edit: I couldn't see a way to get that nut off so I am trying to take the Alternator apart in order to find something to grab onto to keep the shaft from spinning. But I cannot get any further than the attached photo. Any place I pry is causing plastic to flex. I can't see how the rest of it comes apart.
Edit: I couldn't see a way to get that nut off so I am trying to take the Alternator apart in order to find something to grab onto to keep the shaft from spinning. But I cannot get any further than the attached photo. Any place I pry is causing plastic to flex. I can't see how the rest of it comes apart.
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- Thread starter
- #128
A ½” impact wrench works the best. There is just a tin fan behind the pulley which might bend if used to keep the rotor shaft from turning. The pulley has no key so it can rotate on the shaft as you found out.
If you don’t have access to an impact wrench there is a trick you can try. Put a 10mm ¼” drive socket inside a 22mm socket. Stick a ¼” drive extension through the ½” drive socket opening into the 10mm socket. Connect a ¼” drive breaker bar or ratchet to the extension. Use this on the 10mm hex on the end of the rotor shaft to keep it from turning (set to tighten direction). Use a pipe wrench, vise grips, channel locks, whatever to get purchase on the outside of the 22mm socket and turn to loosen. If worse comes to worse you might have to rough up the socket to get a bite on it.
Hope this helps.
Bill
If you don’t have access to an impact wrench there is a trick you can try. Put a 10mm ¼” drive socket inside a 22mm socket. Stick a ¼” drive extension through the ½” drive socket opening into the 10mm socket. Connect a ¼” drive breaker bar or ratchet to the extension. Use this on the 10mm hex on the end of the rotor shaft to keep it from turning (set to tighten direction). Use a pipe wrench, vise grips, channel locks, whatever to get purchase on the outside of the 22mm socket and turn to loosen. If worse comes to worse you might have to rough up the socket to get a bite on it.
Hope this helps.
Bill
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Both times I just took it to my mechanic and had him do it. He didn't charge me for it even though he's already lost tons of business because I do my own stuff now 
- Thread starter
- #130
Am I correct in thinking this is only an upgrade for the 1FZ engines and not a 3FE??
Well I'll just let myself back out of this thread then
Just finished rereading this thread as I'm thinking of tackling this project soon (got a bracket a while ago, just now getting around to it). I'm wondering if anyone has found a smaller-than-stock pulley to increase idle output and make the stock belts fit easier. If so, please post up! CDan- any recommendations on other Toyota pulleys that might fit the bill?
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I got a bracket a long time ago and have yet to do the mod, however has anyone had any issues to date with their fusable links and the higher output on the upgraded alt? It seems to me that if you had a high enough current draw from something connected directly to the battery like a winch you could create a situation where more power than was origninally designed to flow through the links could cause them to pop. But I don't know at what level the fusable links are supposed to fail?
I have no idea re a smaller diameter pulley. Toyota does not publish pully dimensions so it would be a very long research project that I do not have the time to spend on. There is more to it than diameter. You also have to deal with center-bore and groove spacing.
It may be possible to chuck it in a lathe and cut it down but it's cast and I don't know if that's possible.
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I upgraded my fusable links when i installed the larger output alternator. No issues so far and we are going on about a year in use.
I have yet to upgrade some of the "other" wires. I can't remember which ones they are, but if you go to the long thread detailing the install of photoman's bracket, it's suggested to upgrade a few of the other wires in order to get the full upgrade effects. I would like to do that when i have time.
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I've already greatly upgraded the main + cable from the alt to the fusable link as a result of my electrical failure at CM09 this spring. However the fusable links have really prevented me from doing this mod. Mr. T had to choose the size they did for a reason. But, I have not had the time to try to determine that reason. Was it to limit the OEM alt's output or protect other parts of the electrical system? If anyone kows please chime in. I hate chasing electircal gremlins so I'm reluctant to make mods to the OEM system without doing my homework first.
- Thread starter
- #140
I don't know of any Toyota pulleys but a year or so ago I had considered machining a smaller diameter pulley. It was not so much to aid in the fit of the larger alternator; but to increase the alternator rpm’s at lower engine rpm’s. I made some quick pulley groove angle gauges, did a bunch of measurements, and it can be done. This is all from memory so take it for what it is worth. If I remember correctly, the best way was to reduce the hole size where the flange nut goes in. This leaves more material that can be removed to reduce the pulley diameter. The stock pulley size can be reduced but it is taking away from the thickness that is left at the bottom of the belt grooves. Reducing the flange nut access hole size this way might require using a regular socket to remove the flange nut as opposed to an impact socket. The other thing iirc, is the maximum rpm’s that an alternator is rated at is 18000. So it probably would not be good to exceed this, especially for prolonged periods. At the time I ran some calculations from my measurements and iirc at least a 10 or 20 percent diameter reduction would not be a problem. I have the paper work and a machining drawing I started somewhere. If I find it I will post up some of the figures.
Bill
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