Upgrading Lexus Premium Stereo+Amp in a '98 LX470 (1 Viewer)

[Jonathan Case]

I got he ERR3 code on my Lexus Premium disc changer (not Nakamichi), so it's time to go aftermarket. Through a bunch of reading on MUD and elsewhere, I gathered that replacing the amp would be wiser than trying to reuse it with a potentially incompatible head unit. I wanted to keep the budget below $500, so I went with the Pioneer AVH-280BT and an affordable, well-reviewed Pioneer 5 channel amp. Also going to run a backup camera.

Never done a stereo install, so this should be a fun/harrowing weekend. Here are the parts I have coming:

Head unit:
Amazon.com: Pioneer AVH-280BT In-Dash DVD Receiver with 6.2" Display and Bluetooth: Car Electronics

Amp:
Amazon.com: Pioneer GM-D9605 Gm Digital Series Class D Amp (5-Channel Bridgeable, 2,000W Max): Car Electronics

Backup Camera:
Amazon.com: AUTO-VOX Cam 6 Rear Reverse Backup Camera License Plate Parking Rearview System of 170-Degree Wide Angle for Truck & RV with Waterproof Night Vision: Car Electronics

I've seen a thread on here somewhere (can't find now) where someone replaced just the head unit and spliced all the speaker wires, and I've seen some threads where people replaced Nakamichi amps... not sure I've seen one with a Premium Sound (old Pioneer amp) replacement scenario. Any helpful tips are appreciated!

Right now I mainly need to figure out what bits and pieces I'll have to pick up, wiring/splicing-wise.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Ooh, boy. Head spinning. I've researched this for a lonnnng time and am about a full day into the job, but it may be beyond me. I have only about 4 wires hooked up from the Pioneer power harness to the factory wires, but am stuck on a few things. Maybe someone that's done this can give me guidance:

1. I'm not sure how to connect the remote power wire (blue and white from Pioneer) - does it go to the black and red amp cable, or the black and red antenna cable? Do I crimp all three together somehow?

2. What's the difference between the two illumination (green, and white/green) wires, and which should I connect to the Pioneer white and orange? I've seen both ways done on the forum.

3. I read that using an aftermarket amp is a better way to go from multiple sources, but I'm gathering that might not mean 'easier'. Do i need to run new cable to connect this 2000w Pioneer (the most affordable well-reviewed 5 channel I could find on Amazon), or can I somehow reuse the factory wiring?

Help appreciated! Thanks, guys.

 

[sk8salomon]

Sounds like you've got that "oh $hit what did I get myself into" moment! Although it seems difficult, not to worry, it's not rocket science. I'll try my best to help you as much as I can.

Step 1- go buy beer
Step 2- get a Factory Service Manual or anything that explains the wiring color code for your specific model stereo system.

Wiring-not specific to any vehicle but in general most radios require the following:

1-constant battery power (+12VDC)
2-negative battery
3-accessory or (ignition key on) +12VDC
4-power antennae (this can be a separate wire on the factory radio or you can connect to 3 above.
5-Front RH + & - speaker wires
6-Front LH " " "
7-Rear RH ". ". "
8-Rear LH ". ". "
9-illumination (optional depending on components & vehicle)
10-wire for opening your beer

The amp blue/white wire is called remote turn on. This turns the amp on when you turn the ignition key so that means connect to 3 above.

My advice is concentrate on the radio wires first, then work your way to the amp. Having some type of factory wiring guide is a must unless you can print stuff you find off the interweb. What's your plan for connecting wires?

 

[RobRed]

Start Here: Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

 

[Jonathan Case]

Sounds like you've got that "oh $hit what did I get myself into" moment! Although it seems difficult, not to worry, it's not rocket science. I'll try my best to help you as much as I can.

Step 1- go buy beer
Step 2- get a Factory Service Manual or anything that explains the wiring color code for your specific model stereo system.

Wiring-not specific to any vehicle but in general most radios require the following:

1-constant battery power (+12VDC)
2-negative battery
3-accessory or (ignition key on) +12VDC
4-power antennae (this can be a separate wire on the factory radio or you can connect to 3 above.
5-Front RH + & - speaker wires
6-Front LH " " "
7-Rear RH ". ". "
8-Rear LH ". ". "
9-illumination (optional depending on components & vehicle)
10-wire for opening your beer

The amp blue/white wire is called remote turn on. This turns the amp on when you turn the ignition key so that means connect to 3 above.

My advice is concentrate on the radio wires first, then work your way to the amp. Having some type of factory wiring guide is a must unless you can print stuff you find off the interweb. What's your plan for connecting wires?

Thanks, man. As The Dude says, "My thinking on this case has become so uptight." I have wiring diagrams sourced from several places and they do denote what's what on my '98:


98 LX Radio and Speaker Install
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

I'm definitely prioritizing the head unit (I may end up returning the amp and just going with the head unit's internal amp like drjman did --first link-- for simplicity's sake). Still, in spite of studying the wiring diagrams and the vehicle guts for hours, my confusion remains...

This, from LXRunner's post is what I'm trying to emulate, but it's for a Kenwood, so not everything's the same:

Kenwood DDX 6019 in to 99LX470

What I've done so far and what doesn't make sense...

02 BLU/YEL +B2 connected to 12 YEL Battery >>> Done.
04 GRN ILL connected to 13 ORG/WHT Illumination >>> Done, though drjman's guide specified I use the different illumination wire.
05 BLK/RED ANT+ connected to 04 BLU Ant. Contr. >>> Don't have Ant. on my Pioneer harness, so not sure how to power the antenna
06 PNK FL+ connected to 11 WHT FL+speaker
08 RED RR+ connected to 19 PRPL RR+speaker
09 BLK RL+ connected to 22 GRN RL+speaker
10 GRY ACC connected to 02 RED Ignition >>> Done.
11 BRN E connected to 01 BLK GND >>> Done.
11 BRN E connected to 17 LT GRN Prk. SW >>> This appears to need a special adapter to circumvent the intended safety mechanism? I don't need DVD while driving, so I'd just as soon hook it up as Pioneer intended - whatever's easier, I guess.
17 BLU FR- connected to 09 GRY/BLK FL+speaker
18 LT GRN FR+ connected to 08 GRY FL+speaker
19 VIO FL- connected to 10 WHT/BLK FL+speaker
21 WHT RR- connected to 20 PRPL/BLK FL+speaker
22 YEL RL- connected to 21 GRN/BLK FL+speaker

The list above doesn't say where to connect the white/blue remote turn on wire, but you're saying the ACC wire? The Pioneer manual tells me to connect it to the amp, re the included page from the manual.

I have a feeling I'm close - I mainly need to figure out how to get the antenna hooked up and the amp/blue+white wire sorted.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Start Here: Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Thanks, Rob, I've read through that page several times and have it open while I'm working, so my confusion remains after having read that and many other pages - hence why I may be out of my depth here.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Tried again tonight to just get the stereo to turn on - wired the following to stereo:

Constant Power (tried both +B2 and +B1),
ACC,
Ground,
Illumination (tried both green and green+white cables).

Also tried connecting the black+red Amp cable to the stereo's remote turn on.

None of the configurations worked to power on the head unit. At this point I've undone all my crimping/splicing, so I'm ready to try any last suggestions, or take it in to a shop tomorrow. The power of beer may not be enough!

 

[jnsluft]

All right. Here's my first post. I purchased a LX about a month ago, and just finished installing a Pioneer X4800BS. Super easy using this as posted previously. Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

If you follow this guide, and still don't have power, check the fuse.

I followed this guide and everything worked out perfect. You will probably need a parking brake bypass harness. Without one, I couldn't access many features on the head unit. Three wires. One to the long green parking brake wire on the head unit, the black to ground, and the blue to the Pioneer blue/white wire you will connect to the amp and antenna turn on.

You said you were stuck on the blue/white wire. Connect this to #5 antenna AND #14 amplifier. This will turn on both.

Good luck. If you have any other questions, you may PM me.

Shawn

 

[jerryb]

A new deck install WITH a new amp ... blue wire travels all the way to the new amp and goes into the remote input on the amp. That's what signals the amp to turn on. Remote wires, almost always blue/ blue-white send a small signal outbound from the deck to turn on other things. That line out is fragile.

A new deck install without a new amp requires that the blue remote, or the blue plus white stripe from the deck to connect to a grey wire in the stock amp.

there's only a few wires needed to make a new deck turn on.
battery
+12v
ground.


I don't know about pioneer's orange wire. I've not connected a deck in a long time that needed an illumination wire. These days decks can be dimmed by the user. In your case maybe it's needed for the screen, idk


start with yellow, red and black from the pioneer.

L-Y (blue w/yellow stripe) should go to the yellow on the pioneer. For red It looks like your drawing say GR, which is the wire that goes to the red one in the pioneer harness. It's colored black on your pic, but it says GR which should indicate grey
Ground-wherever

Those three will power it up. You should check with volt meter while connecting these. The two wires you're using are right next to each other on the R21 plug in positions #1 and 2.

If you don't have power check the two fuses you could have popped while messing around.
Also if there is a fuse in the back of the pioneer.
Once it's powered and grounded, check output on the blue/white wire on the pioneer. Make sure it's still intact and sending power out.

Pros say remote lines need a .5 amp fuse inline to protect it. I never do.

If it's damaged or not working, only then I would resort to using a key on power circuit for the remote to the new amp. Then the amp would be ON at all times with the key turned. Using the blue/white pioneer wire as the remote makes the new amp turn on only when the radio is on. That's the goal.

maybe that helps.

 

[ponytl]

I have done several and always use the aftermarket wire harness that connects to the factory plug, google them and get the part number then go to best buy they will match the internet price if you ask... it really is a 5 min deal with the right connector PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEM W AMP INTEGRATION AFTERMARKET RADIO HARNESS (70-8112) | eBay

 

[Jonathan Case]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like I need to check my fuses. I've been working with battery terminals disconnected during any splicing work, so I hope that's not the case.

I have done several and always use the aftermarket wire harness that connects to the factory plug, google them and get the part number then go to best buy they will match the internet price if you ask... it really is a 5 min deal with the right connector PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEM W AMP INTEGRATION AFTERMARKET RADIO HARNESS (70-8112) | eBay

Pontytl, thanks for the link, but that harness is different than the one in my LX, which uses a 22 pin plug. Others on Mud and audio shops say that mine has no aftermarket harness available.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Checked fuses. 20A radio fuse under engine hood by the battery is good. 10A fuse on the Pioneer is good. Is there anything under the driver's side panel that could be blown? My multimeter's broken (of course), so I haven't been able to verify if I have constant power at +B2 (blue+yellow).

 

[jerryb]

make a test light with a bulb from your car maybe?

 

[RobRed]

Thanks, Rob, I've read through that page several times and have it open while I'm working, so my confusion remains after having read that and many other pages - hence why I may be out of my depth here.

Part of the difficulty is that different trucks same year have different connection pin numbers but the colors are the same. the Diagram you posted is the 22 pin connector for the Nakamichi. Do you in fact have a 22 pin connector at the radio?

The key to powering the radio from the factory wiring is the old amplifier power wires have to be tied together.... the blue yellow wire in the dash for radio power comes front the factory amp. if the factory amp is gone you need to tie the two blue/yellow together at the amp location. Read the top section of TLCFAQ reference.

The blue /white from the pioneer needs to run to the new amp "turn on" terminal - there is no previous factory connection for that. This wire also powers the power antenna (Pioneer is lame here as they removed the dedicated antenna turn on lead from recent radios).

 

[Jonathan Case]

Well, I ended up taking it to a local shop. Cost almost double the head unit itself just to have it installed with a factory amp bypass (ouch), so I'm sending the Pioneer amp back to keep the project somewhere near my budget. I wish I'd had more time to figure it out, but after a whole weekend and no results, I needed to get this done before my wife got home from a trip (supposed to be a surprise).

So that the project's not a total loss, I'll at least answer a couple questions: Yes, my '98 had the pictured 22 pin harness (short and wide), but it was not a Nakamichi. Weird, huh? Maybe that was part of my problem, though as you say, the wire colors were the same as other people's guides. The head unit was a Fujitsu Ten with a Pioneer amp.

The amp was working fine to power the original head unit. It was still connected when I tried to get the Pioneer powered on, so I don't think it was the issue. It also supplied power when tested at the shop, so I dunno. It's disconnected now, and working fine, so if someone needs a factory LX470 Pioneer amp, let me know.

Thanks to everyone who offered help on the head unit! Maybe I'll have better luck with installing the backup camera (after I lick my wounds).

 

[jnsluft]

The backup camera will be easy. I used the Auto-vox 6 from Amazon. Power and ground get connected to a back up light. There is a long enough signal wire included in the box. You will also need to connect the violet/white wire to pin#2 on connector E8 behind the glove box. This ingots also on the previously mentioned tlcfaq.com page.

One question. Why bypass the amp? Was it not working?

 

[Jonathan Case]

The backup camera will be easy. I used the Auto-vox 6 from Amazon. Power and ground get connected to a back up light. There is a long enough signal wire included in the box. You will also need to connect the violet/white wire to pin#2 on connector E8 behind the glove box. This ingots also on the previously mentioned tlcfaq.com page.

One question. Why bypass the amp? Was it not working?

Thanks for that info on the backup camera. Where did you connect to the backup light wire?

The amp worked fine, but I read numerous accounts from other MUD members that it didn't work correctly with their aftermarket head units. I clearly don't know much about this system - I just tried to go off the accounts of others.

 

[jnsluft]

I just spliced into the ps back up light. You will need to remove the inner tailgate panel and taillight cover. I used this,Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit 4 Pc my new favorite tool set, to pry off the panel.

I then drilled a 1/4" hole just above the license plate. The connection between the light and video cable is inside the lower tailgate. I made a cut in the grommet on the bottom of the tailgate, and pushed the cable through.

From there, I fed the wire into the interior under the weatherstripping. The rest was just pushing the cable under the plastic trim all the way to the front, behind the glovebox, and to the head unit.

Then all you need to do is connect the back up wire to the E8 #2 wire on the ecu.

 

[Jonathan Case]

I just spliced into the ps back up light. You will need to remove the inner tailgate panel and taillight cover. I used this,Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit 4 Pc my new favorite tool set, to pry off the panel.

I then drilled a 1/4" hole just above the license plate. The connection between the light and video cable is inside the lower tailgate. I made a cut in the grommet on the bottom of the tailgate, and pushed the cable through.

From there, I fed the wire into the interior under the weatherstripping. The rest was just pushing the cable under the plastic trim all the way to the front, behind the glovebox, and to the head unit.

Then all you need to do is connect the back up wire to the E8 #2 wire on the ecu.

That's great! Thank you for the detail. That prybar kit looks really handy.