If I had my choice of oilpans, I would get a good, used, rust free early 2F oilpan. I think the later 2F oilpans, like you can buy new, are made of thinner metal and not as sturdy.
Upgrading a 1974 F1.5 to 2F
- Thread starter cstav86
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I had the same issue on the same 2F swap…. But it was just a lot easier to pull the trigger on a new oil pan…
I didn’t want to spend a lot of time looking for a used oil pan, cleaning it up, making sure the sealing surface was flat.. etc…. Just wanted to get back running again…
But maybe early 2F pans are easy to find…
Rocky
PS. My biggest issue was my throttle linkage, because I used the 2F manifold set…. That moved the carburetor out, and so my linkage didn’t work.
I used the FJ60 firewall bracket to allow me to have a good mount for the bell crank. It has been solid for about 8 years!
Let me know if you want a picture, or if you have this worked out…
I didn’t want to spend a lot of time looking for a used oil pan, cleaning it up, making sure the sealing surface was flat.. etc…. Just wanted to get back running again…
But maybe early 2F pans are easy to find…
Rocky
PS. My biggest issue was my throttle linkage, because I used the 2F manifold set…. That moved the carburetor out, and so my linkage didn’t work.
I used the FJ60 firewall bracket to allow me to have a good mount for the bell crank. It has been solid for about 8 years!
Let me know if you want a picture, or if you have this worked out…
Last edited:
I know you didn’t ask, but I’ll show you anyway…
In the first picture, you can see the FJ60 firewall bracket with the curved arm that holds the eccentric throttle rod.
I had to shorten & reweld the eccentric rod, you can see the weld in the pictures.
The second picture is a top down look of the rod at the carburetor end, and the associated linkage connections.
There might be an easier way to do this (cable actuated throttle system?) but this has worked out well for me.
Rocky
In the first picture, you can see the FJ60 firewall bracket with the curved arm that holds the eccentric throttle rod.
I had to shorten & reweld the eccentric rod, you can see the weld in the pictures.
The second picture is a top down look of the rod at the carburetor end, and the associated linkage connections.
There might be an easier way to do this (cable actuated throttle system?) but this has worked out well for me.
Rocky
cstav86
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cstav86
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New oil pan is ready for pickup at Toyota and @DHapp dropped off a radiator shroud and down pipe this morning.
Still waiting on the lower radiator hoses from Toyota. Not sure what the deal is there, but it's going on three weeks now.
Next step is to replace the oil pan and assemble the radiator, shroud, support and hoses. Then I'll have exhaust made and it should be ready to fire up.
Still waiting on the lower radiator hoses from Toyota. Not sure what the deal is there, but it's going on three weeks now.
Next step is to replace the oil pan and assemble the radiator, shroud, support and hoses. Then I'll have exhaust made and it should be ready to fire up.
cstav86
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Sorry for the lack of posting on the progress of this. I have a 9 month old at home, so garage time is limited and time to create posts is even more limited.
So I replaced the damaged oil pan. Not a particularly hard job, just lots of time going around all the bolts in sequence so that the pan sits flush. I did do a layer of ultra black on either side of the cork gasket. Only note there is that 7 ft/lbs for the bolts is really light. My 3/8" torque wrench only goes down to 10lbs, but will read smaller numbers. Likely need a 1/4" torque wrench.
A super helpful part are the fel pro snap ups that allow you to install the pan then be hands free to install your bolts. What a wonderful product. Part number here.
If you have an original mechanical fixed fan, you will need the larger 2f fan shroud. They are getting hard to come by from suppliers I talked to, not unobtanium, but getting pricey.
To accommodate the clutch fan and larger water pump I moved the radiator support holes 3/4" forward. Basically as far as they would go to where the radiator frame bumps up against the front frame crossmember. I replaced the canvas looking isolator with a neoprene koozie I cut up. Interestingly the radiator support rods didnt require any modifications and everything looks square. Could be because I added new rubber bushings there too. I thought for sure with the 3/4" move the rods would pull the top of the radiator forward, but it didn't.
Vacuum is a little lower, but I think that may be due to a slightly different cam grind.
This came with a 60 series big cap distributor and what a huge pain it is to get that thing bolted down. The big cap, oil filter and oil pressure sensor makes it very hard to manuever a wrench.
Big shout out to @cwwfj60 for his help during initial start up.
The final break in procedure endorsed by the builder is as follows. This was my process that the engine builder approved. I fully understand it's probably not your way or the way your grandpa did it. Also not looking to break the internet here.
Used 30wt Driven GP-1 Break in oil
Manually ran the oil pump with a drill and rotated the motor untill we saw oil coming out the rockers.
Set motor to TDC and stab distributor and ensure its engaged with oil pump.
**I already did QC and checked the coil for spark. Firing a motor for the first time is nerve wracking, so the more your can check and be confident about prior to starting the better.
Fire it up and bumped the RPMs to ~2,000
Ran it for 20 minutes. We did pause that and idle for a minute to adjust timing to get it to run better.
Shut it down and re-torqued head bolts per FSM.
Adjust valves.
Fire it back up and drive for 30 minutes making strong pulls then let it coast back down and pull again.
Dumped oil and replaced with another round of 30 wt break in oil and let it cool down overnight.
I was told the second set of break in oil isnt necessary, but the majority of wear is going to happen early on, so for longevity I decided to do two rounds of break in oil. It's $100 insurance, and given the amount of work this is, it's cheap insurance.
Next day did a second 30 minute run and that should complete the break in process.
I will change the 30wt break in for Driven GP-1 15w-40.
Here are some photos of the final product.
So I replaced the damaged oil pan. Not a particularly hard job, just lots of time going around all the bolts in sequence so that the pan sits flush. I did do a layer of ultra black on either side of the cork gasket. Only note there is that 7 ft/lbs for the bolts is really light. My 3/8" torque wrench only goes down to 10lbs, but will read smaller numbers. Likely need a 1/4" torque wrench.
A super helpful part are the fel pro snap ups that allow you to install the pan then be hands free to install your bolts. What a wonderful product. Part number here.
If you have an original mechanical fixed fan, you will need the larger 2f fan shroud. They are getting hard to come by from suppliers I talked to, not unobtanium, but getting pricey.
To accommodate the clutch fan and larger water pump I moved the radiator support holes 3/4" forward. Basically as far as they would go to where the radiator frame bumps up against the front frame crossmember. I replaced the canvas looking isolator with a neoprene koozie I cut up. Interestingly the radiator support rods didnt require any modifications and everything looks square. Could be because I added new rubber bushings there too. I thought for sure with the 3/4" move the rods would pull the top of the radiator forward, but it didn't.
Vacuum is a little lower, but I think that may be due to a slightly different cam grind.
This came with a 60 series big cap distributor and what a huge pain it is to get that thing bolted down. The big cap, oil filter and oil pressure sensor makes it very hard to manuever a wrench.
Big shout out to @cwwfj60 for his help during initial start up.
The final break in procedure endorsed by the builder is as follows. This was my process that the engine builder approved. I fully understand it's probably not your way or the way your grandpa did it. Also not looking to break the internet here.
Used 30wt Driven GP-1 Break in oil
Manually ran the oil pump with a drill and rotated the motor untill we saw oil coming out the rockers.
Set motor to TDC and stab distributor and ensure its engaged with oil pump.
**I already did QC and checked the coil for spark. Firing a motor for the first time is nerve wracking, so the more your can check and be confident about prior to starting the better.
Fire it up and bumped the RPMs to ~2,000
Ran it for 20 minutes. We did pause that and idle for a minute to adjust timing to get it to run better.
Shut it down and re-torqued head bolts per FSM.
Adjust valves.
Fire it back up and drive for 30 minutes making strong pulls then let it coast back down and pull again.
Dumped oil and replaced with another round of 30 wt break in oil and let it cool down overnight.
I was told the second set of break in oil isnt necessary, but the majority of wear is going to happen early on, so for longevity I decided to do two rounds of break in oil. It's $100 insurance, and given the amount of work this is, it's cheap insurance.
Next day did a second 30 minute run and that should complete the break in process.
I will change the 30wt break in for Driven GP-1 15w-40.
Here are some photos of the final product.
