Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (2 Viewers)

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Yup switched the GX to 5w30 and will be doing the same for the new 4runner.
I always ran 0w40 in the truck before trading it in and it had zero issues.
 
I use Mobile 1 synthetic in all my vehicles and put in 0w-20 between Sep-May here in Denver, Colorado. I use a heavier weight in the summer time. Besides using an appropriate oil for your vehicle and your environment, it's also very beneficial to be easy on the RPM until the engine is at the normal operating temp and the tranny has had time to warm-up the fluid. One of the worst things you can do for your engine is when it's 10° F outside to stomp on the gas pedal within seconds of starting the engine.
 
I'm also running a 30 weight. Redline 0w-30. I stayed down on the 0w-30 not for cold weather starting, but for a lower HTHS than their 5w-30. Their 5w-30 film strength is thicker than a 40 weight, where I was looking more for a mid to upper range 30 weight.

At the end of the day, if someone runs short trips and turns their motor back off before it can really heat up, then their 20 weight oil might be in the 30 weight range anyway due to lower heat build up. Conversely, if someone (like me) who chugs around in low range with little wind or tows heavy most of the time, a 20 weight might get a bit too hot, and act like a 16 or 8 weight.

But that is what I consider the real debate.

A 30 weight oil, will be a 20 weight if you heat it up past 100ºC; and a 20 weight oil may be a 60 weight oil when it is cold outside. But overall, is anyone here accurately measuring their oil temperature and determining that they are running their oil above that magic temperature? I doubt it. The only way I was able to was to drill a hole and add my own oil temp sensor in my pan.

Another thing to consider is thinner oils cool metal more efficiently than thick oils. If running the highway, I would want a thinner oil as I’m not loading down the motor at all.

Lastly, is anyone tearing their motors down and determining that their 20 weight oils are shearing and causing metal on metal damage?

At least for all of us, we have oil coolers as standard, so the potential of having super heated oil is even more reduced. That's all I would like to mention, is that it is the temperature at which our respective motors operate at the majority of the time based on our individual use. So one weight is not right for the next guy, its situation dependent.

What motivated your change from Amsoil to Redline?

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What motivated your change from Amsoil to Redline?

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I’ve found, for me at least, that the best way to get better is to try different things. So I experiment a lot. The idea of esters seemed to be a better idea to me. Plus, when I took the top end of my 5.7 apart to fix the cam tower and timing chain cover leaks, I found that there was some varnish that bothered me.

So after 30k of Redline, the inside of my motor is spotless. But... then it started getting back some okay wear numbers. This is after everything has been spotless for a bit (I took my motor apart, again). I then switched to Valvoline and have been getting the same, or ever so slightly better wear than with my beloved Amsoil SS.

For viscosity, I monitor to make sure that if I start running the motor above 210°F, then I bump up to 30 weight. If I’m running cooler, I stay at 20 weight. What’s good is we all have oil coolers, so it’s hard to really get the oil super hot and thin down 20 weight too much. But we can, or at least I can, so I run a 30 weight because if you get 30 weight hot enough, it turns into 20 weight.

We’ll see what else I change my mind on. But one thing is for sure, I haven’t gotten to where I am at with my skill set by doing the same things over and over. And I hope that I can keep improving my skill set for many years to come.
 
I’ve found, for me at least, that the best way to get better is to try different things. So I experiment a lot. The idea of esters seemed to be a better idea to me. Plus, when I took the top end of my 5.7 apart to fix the cam tower and timing chain cover leaks, I found that there was some varnish that bothered me.

So after 30k of Redline, the inside of my motor is spotless. But... then it started getting back some okay wear numbers. This is after everything has been spotless for a bit (I took my motor apart, again). I then switched to Valvoline and have been getting the same, or ever so slightly better wear than with my beloved Amsoil SS.

For viscosity, I monitor to make sure that if I start running the motor above 210°F, then I bump up to 30 weight. If I’m running cooler, I stay at 20 weight. What’s good is we all have oil coolers, so it’s hard to really get the oil super hot and thin down 20 weight too much. But we can, or at least I can, so I run a 30 weight because if you get 30 weight hot enough, it turns into 20 weight.

We’ll see what else I change my mind on. But one thing is for sure, I haven’t gotten to where I am at with my skill set by doing the same things over and over. And I hope that I can keep improving my skill set for many years to come.

I appreciate the response. I literally read your response in this thread this evening about Redline just minutes after purchasing Amsoil SS and their filter and thought 😳 CRAP, that was $120, now I have to wait another 7k miles to go find Redline! And I was just trying to convince myself the Amsoil was going to be worth it.

I had been using Rotella Synthetic for a long time, and was happy about it, but I don't research some of these topics as much. Instead, I was taking recommendations from those I respect on the forum, like yourself.

What are your feelings on Blackstone testing? I've been doing that for a while too and enjoy reading their synopsis of my results at each oil change.
 
I appreciate the response. I literally read your response in this thread this evening about Redline just minutes after purchasing Amsoil SS and their filter and thought 😳 CRAP, that was $120, now I have to wait another 7k miles to go find Redline! And I was just trying to convince myself the Amsoil was going to be worth it.

I had been using Rotella Synthetic for a long time, and was happy about it, but I don't research some of these topics as much. Instead, I was taking recommendations from those I respect on the forum, like yourself.

What are your feelings on Blackstone testing? I've been doing that for a while too and enjoy reading their synopsis of my results at each oil change.
I think Blackstone is a generally good, and helps a lot of people find what may work best for them.

I don’t use them anymore because their process is not very accurate for fuel dilution. Something I feel is important to monitor, especially when most cars are short tripped, run lower HTHS oils, and have long oil change intervals.
 
What motivated your change from Amsoil to Redline?

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You realize that it was Mobil that filed the law suit against Castrol for claiming that the Castrol Group III mineral oils were not a true synethic, that only Group IV and V PAO and Esters were true synethics. Yes, Mobil lost the law suit as being too righteous, as no oils are pure as they all oils contain additives and that Castrol extra cracking steps was a synthesis of natural oil. However, this does not mitigate that Mobil 1 was and is a pure base stock Group IV, V and or blend of both oil. The judge's ruling is so unfortunate, because now "synthetic" and "full synthetic" has become just a marketing term, and consumers must look further. Mobil 1 products (their is a very wide range of offerings) are true sysnethics and equal or better (depending on which offering) than Amsoil, Redline, Motul but they also offer lower cost "synthetics" base on Group III called Mobil Super and Mobil Full Synthetic to compete with the other players in the modified Group III game.
 
I think Blackstone is a generally good, and helps a lot of people find what may work best for them.

I don’t use them anymore because their process is not very accurate for fuel dilution. Something I feel is important to monitor, especially when most cars are short tripped, run lower HTHS oils, and have long oil change intervals.

What intervals do you change oil at, and how are you monitoring your temps so accurately?
 
You realize that it was Mobil that filed the law suit against Castrol for claiming that the Castrol Group III mineral oils were not a true synethic, that only Group IV and V PAO and Esters were true synethics. Yes, Mobil lost the law suit as being too righteous, as no oils are pure as they all oils contain additives and that Castrol extra cracking steps was a synthesis of natural oil. However, this does not mitigate that Mobil 1 was and is a pure base stock Group IV, V and or blend of both oil. The judge's ruling is so unfortunate, because now "synthetic" and "full synthetic" has become just a marketing term, and consumers must look further. Mobil 1 products (their is a very wide range of offerings) are true sysnethics and equal or better (depending on which offering) than Amsoil, Redline, Motul but they also offer lower cost "synthetics" base on Group III called Mobil Super and Mobil Full Synthetic to compete with the other players in the modified Group III game.

I don't think the base oil within any one group is all that important, but maybe it's worth noting the source for the oil bases.

AMSOIL buys their base oil from Mobil (or at least did) and then mixes in their specific additives (like moly, etc.).

Don't know the source for Redline's base but they are owned by Phillips 66 (since 2014 - might be an indicator of their current source of base).
 
I use Renewable Lubricants and will be switching to 5w30 on my next oil change. My previews oil was Redline
 
Gonna stick with what the toyota engineers specified, they make the 200 to last 20 years....thats good enough for me! Follow the maintenance to a tee!!
 
What intervals do you change oil at, and how are you monitoring your temps so accurately?
Depends on driving conditions. That’s why I send off for analysis more often than I should. I monitor temps with my own sensor in the oil pan. Then knowing that temp on the rings is much higher, I have to make some educated guesses when the oil pan gets close to my limit

I don't think the base oil within any one group is all that important, but maybe it's worth noting the source for the oil bases.

AMSOIL buys their base oil from Mobil (or at least did) and then mixes in their specific additives (like moly, etc.).

Don't know the source for Redline's base but they are owned by Phillips 66 (since 2014 - might be an indicator of their current source of base).
Outside of Exxon Mobil and Shell, I don’t know if anyone capable of making their own base oil. Still doesn’t negate the fact that lots of base oils can come from crude. So just because a couple companies make their own base oils, doesn’t mean there are only two base oils available. I agree the finished product matter much more, but I also feel that the results of a lubricant, under the my particular motor, with my particular driving conditions is what matters most.

Gonna stick with what the toyota engineers specified, they make the 200 to last 20 years....thats good enough for me! Follow the maintenance to a tee!!
Engineers don’t always have the final say at Toyota. Management and accounts sometimes do, and the engineers may not have won this fight. But we’ll never know.

I always say that a bunch of Asians in white lab coats with a billion dollar R&D budget know more than any of us. But... those accounts sometimes win, and I may know a bit more than them... or at least I care more. Who knows, whatever makes you happy and sleep at night.
 
I can tell you this, I have never missed a second of sleep over what oil is in my truck! For a matter of fact, I find this discussion hilarious, change the oil when the light on the truck tells you to, use the recommended oil and drive the s*** out of it!
 
I can tell you this, I have never missed a second of sleep over what oil is in my truck! For a matter of fact, I find this discussion hilarious, change the oil when the light on the truck tells you to, use the recommended oil and drive the s*** out of it!
I’m with you. If my past has showed me anything, my 200 will be crashed into by someone not paying attention far before my motor gives out.

But, I’ve sent customers TGMO 0w-20 off for analysis and it came back with 0 TBN at around 8k miles. So no, when the light goes off does not mean that everything is okay. The light is a dummy light that is simply hitting a set mileage of 10k (in newer 200s). Those customers “drove the s***” out of it also. And that wasn’t working for them.

To each their own, but just as the owner manual says, a higher viscosity may be of benefit for certain conditions.
 
Engineers don’t always have the final say at Toyota. Management and accounts sometimes do, and the engineers may not have won this fight. But we’ll never know.

I always say that a bunch of Asians in white lab coats with a billion dollar R&D budget know more than any of us. But... those accounts sometimes win, and I may know a bit more than them... or at least I care more. Who knows, whatever makes you happy and sleep at night.
Yeah, this nails it. I've been in way-too-many pompous board and management meetings where decisions were made based on finances, legal liability, public and political posturing, and overinflated egos instead of doing the right thing for the customer. A lot of times vehicles have features because it helps the marketing people hammer that point to the buyer. Back in the late 1990's Ford and Chevy told the consumer they sold more trucks than Toyota. Well duh, of course they did because at the time the US gov't gave in to lobby pressure to prevent Toyota from selling a true "full-size" pickup.

My hunch is the Toyota engineers wanted to put the KDSS valves in a very-well protected environment but the accountants said "too expensive." They also probably wanted a display with more physical knobs than electronic buttons because it was one less thing that would fail on the trail. But the marketing people said "no, the incompetent car buyer wants what everyone else has."

If this forum had a say to what the cruiser should look like, it would be a much improved and more practical vehicle. There would be several cargo lights, there would be more space on the dash for adding electrical things, bigger tires, a very-well protected space for the KDSS valves.

The US govt passed legislation that car manufacturers must comply with strict mpg for ALL vehicles it makes. So by Toyota specifying 0w-20, imho, is just to appease the US lawmakers who know nothing about engines, oil, mpg, torque, etc... even though many them ride in huge SUVs and their own private jet airplanes (Just saying...).

Toyota does not manufacture their own oil - it's coming from Mobil, Valvoline, or another similar-sized oil manufacturer. Some of us have strong opinions about Amsoil or Mobil 1. At least we are NOT arguing about if Motorcraft is better than Quaker State. If I was buying my cruiser off the showroom floor I would give Amsoil a very deep consideration.

0w-20 may improve mpg over a heavier oil but one should not put it in their vehicle if their driving styles and outside environment demand something else. Can you use 0w-20 in Miami, FL in July? Can you use 15w-50 in Minot, ND in Jan? You probably can but I won't (plus, it'll be a very rare event for me to be anywhere in ND during the winter). The other important questions are do you drive it like it's stolen, do you tow, do you have 800lb of 4x4 add-ons, do you have time to adequately warm up the engine? As I tell my family, taking proper care of our vehicles truly means more money and less pain for us.
 
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I accidently bought a case of Mobil 5W-30 with a case of 0W-20 at Costco about 10 months ago. I was waiting to take it back until after I got the Vaccine shots, but now I'll use it for the spring/summer driving. I've been looking forward to using the 1/4 turn drain valve I installed last oil change.
 

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