I’m going to have to try that for my front windshield. It’s pretty cracked.
Unobtainium (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Racer65
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Thanks for the input. The FJ60 side glass removal was a piece of cake, as was the removal and reinstallation of the FJ60 rear hatch glass. When it gets light out I'll check to see what type of gasket is in the '71's rear hatch glass - it may have been replaced at one time for all I know. I have a spare lift gate with glass down in the basement, don't know the vintage though. From what I've read the gasket was changed in '72, no lockstrip in the later models. I did look at the '71's glass and gasket after I finished shoveling snow yesterday afternoon, The gasket's cracked and definitely in need of replacement. Besides, I have to remove all of the glass and weatherstripping so the FJ40 can get a new Pollux Orange paint job @Mr Cimarron @Cowboy45.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Well, I lucked out big time. I guess the Land Cruiser gods are looking favorably on my '71 FJ40 build (so far, at least). The spare lift gate I picked up almost 20 years ago still has the original glass, complete with this symbol:
And the weatherstrip is the one-piece without the lockstrip. So it's from a '72 or later, which is good, because as was pointed out, the weatherstrip and glass for the '71 model year are NLA. I'm pretty sure the glass and weatherstrip are original to the lift gate because the re-paint job was done by (poorly) masking off the gasket. The glass is in good shape, but if the weatherstrip can't be used at least I know I can get a good quality reproduction from City Racer.
Can you post up the dimensions of 72+ rear glass pleaseWell, I lucked out big time. I guess the Land Cruiser gods are looking favorably on my '71 FJ40 build (so far, at least). The spare lift gate I picked up almost 20 years ago still has the original glass, complete with this symbol:
And the weatherstrip is the one-piece without the lockstrip. So it's from a '72 or later, which is good, because as was pointed out, the weatherstrip and glass for the '71 model year are NLA. I'm pretty sure the glass and weatherstrip are original to the lift gate because the re-paint job was done by (poorly) masking off the gasket. The glass is in good shape, but if the weatherstrip can't be used at least I know I can get a good quality reproduction from City Racer.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I can probably try to pull the glass tomorrow, might as well do it now so I can get the hatch ready for the body shop. I'll post what I measure tomorrow if I can get to it.
In mm if possible.
Cheers
Cheers
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Will do. Hopefully the glass can be removed easily, the lift gate has been stored inside for the better part of the past 18 or 19 years. I'll try to soften up the weatherstripping with silicone spray before I start.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
The early (through 7/71) weatherstripping is NLA. The key for the two-piece weatherstrip is available but has been replaced by a later part number - same key as for the two-piece front windshield weatherstrip. That's why I'm glad I have a '72 lift gate, a reproduction one-piece weatherstrip is available from City Racer should I need a replacement.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
For others that have an earlier liftgate, the later (larger) glass fits fine using the one piece gasket you reference.
I’m replacing all the small glass in my ‘67 with the larger plus one piece rubber.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Thanks to some fine tutoring from @POTATO LAUNCHER last year, I was able to easily pull the rear hatch glass this afternoon, keeping the original weatherstrip intact. I'll buy a new weatherstrip from City Racer just to have a new one.
The glass is 859mm long, 358mm wide, and 5mm thick - rectangular, flat glass with rounded corners. As near as I can tell the radius of the corners is 50mm. I'm pretty sure the hatch and glass is from a '72 or later FJ40.
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
At a Boy! I'm going to make a glass guy out of you yet my friend. One more tool in the Skill Set.
Reproduction Back Up switch rubber boot cover
if u have a 24mm HEX back up switch or other sensor or switch , such as the water temp. guage sender union on a 2F Cylinder Head
its measures 1 7/8" inches tall or 48cm tall
made from solvent resistant EPDM Rubber , the Test subject in photos is a Back Up switch from a 1978 Fj40 H42 Transmission
I re-designed the original slightly by making it slightly taller to the wires would not get crushed and fatigue on the solder joints , hence giving it more room inside for a various applications line the water temp sender gauge on the 2F cylinder head etc.......
if u have a 24mm HEX back up switch or other sensor or switch , such as the water temp. guage sender union on a 2F Cylinder Head
its measures 1 7/8" inches tall or 48cm tall
made from solvent resistant EPDM Rubber , the Test subject in photos is a Back Up switch from a 1978 Fj40 H42 Transmission
I re-designed the original slightly by making it slightly taller to the wires would not get crushed and fatigue on the solder joints , hence giving it more room inside for a various applications line the water temp sender gauge on the 2F cylinder head etc.......
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,446
- Messages
- 36,550
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Very nice Matt. It is absolutely true that the hard angle on the wires forced by the cramped factory boot contribute to premature wire failure at the solder joints.
Most switches end up being replaced because of wire failure long before the actual switch wears out. This boot should help folks out who would like to repair their old switch but despair when they look at how hard of an angle the wires face with the factory boot.