unable to move distributor to adjust timing (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 14, 2018
Threads
11
Messages
148
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
First tune up since I purchased my '85FJ60. I went to check the timing. Disconnected/plugged vacuum hoses. Loosened the 12mm distributor lock bolt. I didn't remove it but loosened it quite a bit. And the distributor doesn't budge at all. No movement either way. Any secret to getting this thing to move?
 
Eat more wheaties
 
Use a small block of wood and hammer from underneath to push it up. The o-ring on the shaft is likely sticking.
 
No, don’t do that, you don’t want to remove it. You just want to to twist in it’s position.

Crescent wrench on the distributor body might work.
 
I too vote for penetrating oil, a block of wood, and a hammer.
 
Most likely it is just bound up by a misshapen o-ring. Block of wood to the side and a mallet might make the o-ring loosen its hold so it can turn.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: OSS
Usually it's a dissimilar metals thing. The distributor on my 78 40 was frozen. I left it like that for the better part of 15 years but then was determined to break it free. I tried strap wrenches, penetrating oil, hammers, wood blocks but it wouldn't budge. I even rigged up a slide hammer, no dice.

Finally, I was out of time and was about to leave town for a long weekend. Before I left, I hit it again with the penetrating oil and then looped a ratchet strap around the base of the distributor. I looped the other end of the strap around a rafter in my garage and tightened it so there was a constant pull. Four days later, I came home and it as loose:clap:

I don't know if the strap really did the trick or if it was a combination of everything. Might be worth a try.....

Good Luck!
 
It's the o-ring inside that's binding it up. You might as well dive a little deeper and read up on how to pull the distributor (in the 2F manual). That oring should be replaced. It's a rock right now.
 
Ok, so if the distributor is seized in there and obviously hasn’t moved in years, what makes you think it needs to be adjusted? Did you check it with a timing light?
 
Ok, so if the distributor is seized in there and obviously hasn’t moved in years, what makes you think it needs to be adjusted? Did you check it with a timing light?

Took the timing light to it and it's a hair off by 1-2° or so. It's bugging me that I can't get it to 7° BTDC. New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are done but I feel thr job isn't done. Close but no cigar, yet.
 
7° BTDC is for a brand new engine with full compression. If you're 1-2° advanced, that might be perfect depending on the engine's compression, altitude you drive at, and fuel octane you use. 7° isn't necessarily "the best" base timing.
 
7° BTDC is for a brand new engine with full compression. If you're 1-2° advanced, that might be perfect depending on the engine's compression, altitude you drive at, and fuel octane you use. 7° isn't necessarily "the best" base timing.

Thanks @OSS. That makes me feel better. I guess I won't be in a rush to break the dizzy free then. The PO had it only serviced with Mudrak and mechanically shes pretty sound.

Running regular unleaded (87 octane) and around sea level and hoping she'll do OK up to Lake Tahoe or elsewhere around thr Sierras.
 
It's just stuck from 30 years of prolly not moving... Spray some penetrant at the base over a couple of days and Lightly tap the base of the dissy to facilitate the capillary of the fluid. It will loosen up.
 
I too just struggled to get my dizzy to break free. I tried that block of wood trick but couldn't figure out where to get a block of wood anywhere near the dizzy. I went right into the kitchen and poured a bowl of Wheatie's with whole milk mixed with half and half... Not that 2% crap... Went back out there and kicked that Dizzy's a$$. Came right off.

If you decide to break it free. You may as well pull it out and replace the O-ring and the dust ring on top. They are most definitely as dry as a stripper at the Claremont Lounge. Otherwise as @OSS said.... Leave it alone.
 
Thanks @OSS. That makes me feel better. I guess I won't be in a rush to break the dizzy free then. The PO had it only serviced with Mudrak and mechanically shes pretty sound.

Running regular unleaded (87 octane) and around sea level and hoping she'll do OK up to Lake Tahoe or elsewhere around thr Sierras.

Mudrak serviced? You're prolly just fine.
Try running premium fuel (91) for the long drives up to altitude.
:cheers:
 
Depends on how and where you drive your rig. I finally broke mine free because I wanted to carry a spare.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom