Ultimate Steering Setup - Help build

[S&S1stCruzer]

Is there an ultimate setup out there that's better or the best, than just stock 60 box with hydro assit, and oem pump.

I've been searching online, and I have come across a few sites, agr, psc motorsports etc, but obviously not with a direct bolt on. Just looking to see if someone out there has gone above and beyond in setting up there steering.

Here's my ride 84 FJ60 4" lift SUA with 35x12.50's would like to go hydro assist but not have any lag, the steering has enough play with it already.

Let's look at:
Steering Box:
Steering Pump:
All tierods, draglink, pitman arm (because of lift) etc..What ever else I left off someone please add.
Hydro assist: brand, bore and size.


Hope this helps other as it will me
(sorry to cross thread but seems this more suited for this section)

 

[lowtideride]

Ultimate steering set up for a wag....6shooter knuckles and arms, rock rings, fj80 arms, 1/4 wall drag & tie, hyrdo assist 1.75 bore.

Im running marlin hysteer, with 80 series trees, and 1.75 bore hydro steer and an 80 series power steering box. More than enough power. I wish i had the six shooter stuff to go with it....ahhh someday or another.

 

[Mace]

Stock box (but one that is not loose),
sag pump that has been modified

You are SOA so steering arms are not a big deal, steering DL and TR should be beefed up with chromoly stuff. If you want more strength on the knuckles do the ARP stud upgrade.

1.5 to 1.75 hydro assist ram.

Pittman arm is not really that big of a deal.

Done.

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

I though I had understood that with lift 2" or more the pitman arm should be extended so the steering geometry stays intact?

 

[hammerhead]

I'm confused... Are we talkin' SOA or SUA?

 

[lowtideride]

I though I had understood that with lift 2" or more the pitman arm should be extended so the steering geometry stays intact?

Hysteer raises your knuckle arms up.



Mace I heard that the ARG stuff might be weaker than new toyota studs....any truth to this?

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

I'm confused... Are we talkin' SOA or SUA?

For this application it's SUA/spring under.

So do the 2 previous posts apply?

 

[camcruiser13]

do you plan on going bigger than 35" tires?

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

do you plan on going bigger than 35" tires?

No, gonna stay at 35's.

 

[lowtideride]

N-lemon run hysteer sprung under, ya might want to talk to her about it.


I think the above applies.

 

[Mace]

ARP or the 9/16" studs are a significant upgrade IMHO. More so if you actually pay attention to torquing them.

Without hysteer you have significantly less leverage on the actual knuckles. I looked into this with my 60. Since I am Spring under I was searching for people that have actually failed knuckles without doing hysteer. I found none..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132788&highlight=knuckle+studs

As soon as I get more wheel time (or any actually) I will have more factual opinions. Bu I do know that if you stay with a more conventional steering (non hysteer) you are significantly less likely to kill your knuckles..

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

ARP or the 9/16" studs are a significant upgrade IMHO. More so if you actually pay attention to torquing them.

Without hysteer you have significantly less leverage on the actual knuckles. I looked into this with my 60. Since I am Spring under I was searching for people that have actually failed knuckles without doing hysteer. I found none..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=132788&highlight=knuckle+studs

As soon as I get more wheel time (or any actually) I will have more factual opinions. Bu I do know that if you stay with a more conventional steering (non hysteer) you are significantly less likely to kill your knuckles..

Mace - then would a pitman arm that has been extended (down) be solution to hysteer debate as putting stress on the knuckles?
I thought 4x4labs had something like that available?

 

[Mace]

I guess it really depends on you. Personaly I would not worry about the drop pittman arm. If you are noticing some severe bump steer or you manage to max out the angularity on your pittman then by all means replace what is necessary. If not, it is not a huge deal..

Lowering the pittman arm will just bring the TR and DL back to more parallel. Which is easier on the tie rods. So it is up to you. The knuckles will see approximately the same stress. There will be a bit more angularity there. But the TRE will take most of the abuse.