I got a quote from Garden City Undercarriage in Jersey. Comes out to $2,400 for a clean up, paint, and seal. The interior is clean, I have to take a few pictures of it. Again the price isn't too bad given the mileage. I also checked the other components since I had it on the lift. The hubs on the front axle are going, transmision is slightly leaking (new gasket everything else looks good), Cv joints have to be replaced in a few years. Everything else seems in "leave it alone for now" condition.
Ultimate Rust / Undercarriage Thread (7 Viewers)
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Body is pretty clean. Worst I've seen was superficial rust, comes off with WD-40.
For $2400 I would hope they are blasting it, either dry ice or some other media. If that is the case, $2,400 actually isn't bad. Would also be worth asking them what their "paint and seal" process is. Are they just painting with a Rustoleum type product, or are they using a true rust encapsulator and then painting? Either way, there's no guarantee that it won't come back. Some of that rust is pretty deep into metal and will surface again, sooner rather than later if you're staying in the Northeast. Definitely do fluidfilm before winter. As for your body rust, where there's smoke there's fire. If you're cleaning off rust stains with WD40, the stains came from somewhere, so be prepared for those to start coming through the paint soon.
At the end of the day, you gotta ask yourself what you're really trying to do with the truck. You can go back a few pages and see my purchase. I paid a lot for truck that turned out to be pretty crusty in places. Overall it's not bad, but has body rust in a couple spots. I was quoted $2300 by a reputable shop to cut it out and repair/paint. I'm still on the fence with that as well, but with the rest of the truck being rock solid, I am planning on leaving the body rust for a couple years, building out the suspension and upgrading everything else first, then I'll deal with the body later, considering there is always a chance I'm going to bash it up anyway. Besides, the body is purely cosmetic.
I'm trying to hold back as much as possible since I have a baby boy right now. I wanna get at least another 8-10 years out of the truck before I get rid of it. He had told me the process is pretty much this: power washing it, grinding it off not sanding, priming it with a antirust paint, painting it with black paint (frame paint?), And then finally I'm gonna seal it with a 342 cosmoline. Fluid film as well inside the frame. He's pretty reputable around here with the FJ cruisers.
Now like you said the truck is solid its built like a tank the east coast is killing it more then anything else.
For the price, I spend the time seeking out some other options. Dry ice blasting has been super popular lately, but walnut and just regular sand is good too. The problem with grinding is that he'll never be able to get into all those nooks and crannies, and it's no different that what you can do in your own garage for a few hundred bucks in tools and supplies, a case of beer, and a free weekend. There's places here in San Antonio that will do full chassis and undercarriage blasting for less than $1500. $2,400 just to have a guy down there with a wire wheel and grinder for 12 hours then slapping some paint on it is not a good deal in my eyes, and after they finish, you won't know for sure if they got everything because it will gooped over with paint. He might be reputable with the FJ Cruiser group.... but you've got a Land Cruiser, and we are superior, so you need a superior service.
If it were me, I would get it blasted and cleaned, then take it home and do my own treatment with Eastwood products or similar (they have a inside frame coating with nozzle), then a nice heavy coat of fluidfilm right away, then again before winter. Shop around, see what's out there.
Right. I think frame need to be removed, acid dipped, galvanized and then powder coated. On top of it - fluid film or Cosmile (your preference)
Sarcasm noted.
My point is this, $2400 for the service as the shop described, is not reasonable in my opinion. Unless you can see (in person), some of the work they’ve done, I would consider other options.
uHu
Bridgeburner
@SquareOne
At this stage of the rusting process, you would normally also get a leaky tank, and filler pipe.
Make sure to change the brake lines - that's your #1 life insurance.
At this stage of the rusting process, you would normally also get a leaky tank, and filler pipe.
Make sure to change the brake lines - that's your #1 life insurance.
I am joking of course. But seeing damage I don’t understand how you can do something good for $2500 unless you charge $5/hr or so
I would fluid film it this year, and then do it every year after. Run what you brung. Your lc will always be crusty, but fluid film should keep it from getting worse.
The lc frame is much more robust than a Tacoma frame. Frame failures on a 100 are very rare. I would make sure my brake lines are 100% and drive it.
The reality is your truck is 1 fender bender or airbag deployment from being totaled. Enjoy it.
The lc frame is much more robust than a Tacoma frame. Frame failures on a 100 are very rare. I would make sure my brake lines are 100% and drive it.
The reality is your truck is 1 fender bender or airbag deployment from being totaled. Enjoy it.
My 3rd Toyota, but first LC. I drank the Kool Aid...
One owner, garage kept 2000, but the truck spent 4 years in PA, which left a mark. A 2nd, trusted opinion, tells me there is plenty of steel left in the frame, but I would like to remove, if not replace the plastic skid plate that is broken. What is the name of this part?
TIA, Fellas.
![EAEI2044[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "EAEI2044[1].JPG")
One owner, garage kept 2000, but the truck spent 4 years in PA, which left a mark. A 2nd, trusted opinion, tells me there is plenty of steel left in the frame, but I would like to remove, if not replace the plastic skid plate that is broken. What is the name of this part?
TIA, Fellas.
Guys, I figured out how to remove all the rust on your frame all in one go… went down to my local junkyard and got a used frame in perfect condition for $400. Swapped frames and problem solved lol. Replaced all hardware with new OEM parts from Toyota.
I’ve got a build thread on here of my frame off resto.
I’ve got a build thread on here of my frame off resto.
Just traded my 2011 LX570 (which I babied) for a 2021 Tacoma (sorry...). So while it's brand new, I'm appying the cosmoline method, maybe on top of the cosmoline, also spray the USA Fluid/Strongarm to prevent salt sticking to whatever.
The only trick part is all those plastic and wrapped cables, the Tacoma has mosly open frame so those are very visible. Not practical to wrap them so I just liberally sprayed everywhere. I hope its ok.
The only trick part is all those plastic and wrapped cables, the Tacoma has mosly open frame so those are very visible. Not practical to wrap them so I just liberally sprayed everywhere. I hope its ok.
I tried fluid film over cosmoline…. The fluid film will make the cosmoline soft and basically just penetrate through it.
If you catch it in time, some corrosion on the undercarriage isn't the end of the world. Some elbow grease, a fair amount of PPE, and a lot of paint will take you a long way.
Some body repair is obviously needed and in progress, but the frame and suspension cleaned up pretty well. I do plan to drop the rear axle in the near future to fully strip and rebuild it. It needs all new hardware, brake lines, and a little more rust attention. Otherwise, the structural parts came out pretty well.
Some body repair is obviously needed and in progress, but the frame and suspension cleaned up pretty well. I do plan to drop the rear axle in the near future to fully strip and rebuild it. It needs all new hardware, brake lines, and a little more rust attention. Otherwise, the structural parts came out pretty well.
Only pic I have, but how bad does this look? Nice rig w 188,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance fellas.
Any thoughts? 
its not bad, but not good either. start treating it now.... bang/scrape off the flakes, treat with a quality rust inhibitor (Eastwood maybe?) and protect with fluidfilm or similarAny thoughts?
Mine was in similar shape so I swapped frames with an LX470 of the same year.
