u bolt flip kits (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Threads
105
Messages
371
Location
Lewisville, NC
My question is do i get the ones with the rear lower shock mount or just stay stock mount point for the rear shock and buy the kit that does not have the lower shock mount. These are M-A-F that are on sale right now on ebay and they have both kinds. pretty good deal also. Which one would you go with on a '74 fj-40?

Spence
 
I just put these on my 73. I'm glad I got the ones with the shock mounts. It's much easier to get the shocks on the new mount location than the stock location. This also provides a future option to add an additional shock to enhance the coolness factor.
 
I really liked these when I had them SUA - made a big difference in being able to drag more over the rocks. I bent the shock mount pins and bashed the shocks more. If you don't wheel hard - get the pins on the brackets - if you wheel hard - consider going without and figuring another way to keep the shocks out of harms way. Easier if you've already inboarded your upper shock mounts.
 
Sputnik was kind of u-bolts are you using now? i haven't found any good kits for SOA, the num nuts who owned the rig before me like bent the u-bolts and still used them and they weren't even long enough
 
Sputnik was kind of u-bolts are you using now? i haven't found any good kits for SOA, the num nuts who owned the rig before me like bent the u-bolts and still used them and they weren't even long enough

Don't recollect - but think I found some cad plated ones - and unplated that I carry for spares. Honestly - they might have been CCOT u-bolts - not my first choice but the price was right (but again - it's been awhile so I may not remember correctly).

To my knowledge you have to bend the tar out of the front passenger side - depending on how much your turned your front axle. I had to bend mine quite a bit. The others should not be bent - and while I've re-used - I've heard that you shouldn't?
 
Hi All:

Hey Spence, welcome aboard - post some pics of your project! :D

I'd say on the surface to just re-assemble your rig with the stock u-bolt plates and worry about the u-bolt flip kit later, when the truck is ready to go 'wheeling.

Back on topic, the stock lower rear shock mounts (above the rear springs) on the older '40s are superior to the rear mounts on the "newer" '40s that hang off of the u-bolt plate IMO because of the latter style are more likely to get bashed and hung-up on the rocks.

Regards,

Alan

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My question is do i get the ones with the rear lower shock mount or just stay stock mount point for the rear shock and buy the kit that does not have the lower shock mount. These are M-A-F that are on sale right now on ebay and they have both kinds. pretty good deal also. Which one would you go with on a '74 fj-40?

Spence
 
Except for the fact the older shock location doesn't allow for a long enough shock for full travel with a lifted truck



Back on topic, the stock lower rear shock mounts (above the rear springs) on the older '40s are superior to the rear mounts on the "newer" '40s that hang off of the u-bolt plate IMO because of the latter style are more likely to get bashed and hung-up on the rocks.

Regards,

Alan

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Hi All:

No disrespect intended "LCWizard," but I cannot imagine that the lower shock mounts of the later model 40 Series have that much more travel than the earlier trucks. The difference in depth of the lower end of the shock mount is what, one to 1.5 inch?

Regards,

Alan
 
These are M-A-F that are on sale right now on ebay and they have both kinds. pretty good deal also.
Spence



I would be carefull revealing your "swinging deal on E-Bay" finds until the auction closes. Lots of eyes here on 'Mud.

Say, what is the url for the auction page.....?
 
Hi All:

No disrespect intended "LCWizard," but I cannot imagine that the lower shock mounts of the later model 40 Series have that much more travel than the earlier trucks. The difference in depth of the lower end of the shock mount is what, one to 1.5 inch?

Regards,

Alan

I think LCWizard might know just a little more than you think about this topic. Especially the design of the
mentioned skid plate.
 
I think LCWizard might know just a little more than you think about this topic. Especially the design of the
mentioned skid plate.

Kinda like pulling back the curtain in the Wizard of Oz, eh?

;)
 
actually the swinging deal is better here. I'm running the ebay ad, but basically $10.00 higher each on ebay to cover their cut. I'm not sure how anyone can really sell product at a deal there. By the time you
pay listing fees and final sale fees you end up in the hole. I'm letting the ebay ad run out and won't re-up it.
I'll continue the 140.00 each to mud members , shipping included until at least the end of march.

Thanks, dave
 
Except for the fact the older shock location doesn't allow for a long enough shock for full travel with a lifted truck

Dave, are you saying that the older, shock friendly location provides for a too short shock length overall? A number of modders mount a shock mount on the backside of the axle housing to keep the shock out of harm's way. I would think that that would provide for an even shorter shock length - although some do inboard the top mount some.

What would you suggest for those of us that have bashed shocks to smithereens from the lower, newer location (the reason I use the older location now)? I'm still sua and run a 4" lift like many others.

Thanks, Dan
 
It's good to question those of us who think we know it all.
No offense taken.
That's about correct, with a 2.5" lift, the appropriate shock will give you about
an 1 1/4" ~1 1/2" more travel mounted at the lower position and even more on a 4" lift.
Sounds picky, but hey, it's free wheel travel
Those numbers reflect linear travel at the shock pin. Measured at the tire center nearly doubles those numbers during articulation.


Hi All:

No disrespect intended "LCWizard," but I cannot imagine that the lower shock mounts of the later model 40 Series have that much more travel than the earlier trucks. The difference in depth of the lower end of the shock mount is what, one to 1.5 inch?

Regards,

Alan
 
an 1 1/4" ~1 1/2" more travel mounted at the lower position and even more on a 4" lift.
Sounds picky, but hey, it's free wheel travel
Those numbers reflect linear travel at the shock pin. Measured at the tire center nearly doubles those numbers during articulation.

this is interesting here. anyone have any pics to show this. I'm running SUA (approx. 4" lift) with ubolt skid plates, lower shock mount welded to the side; I hate these skid plate things as they are hard as hell to tighten up the nuts and want to flip the bolts on top of the axle. Shock mounts are a concern. I'm not finding a whole lot of good pics for SUA setups like this with the flip kit showing good shock mounts. articulations is a great concern as is a good shock length.
 
I would be carefull revealing your "swinging deal on E-Bay" finds until the auction closes. Lots of eyes here on 'Mud.

Say, what is the url for the auction page.....?

ebay blows

get an soa kit from ruffstuff

the lower your shocks hang down the worse they get smashed up
 
There is a slight upward bend we put in the lower plate that raises the shock eye just above the bottom
of the lower plate. If you were concerned about clearance there is room to bend it up farther

installed.jpg
 
There's no doubt the lower the shock the more vulnerable it is I've battered the eyelets up on a few myself.
If you have the fab ability there is always a custom location that work best for any given build.
Most the time I try to build a part that will exceed stock perfomance without being too ungodly expensive so the four wheeling experience is not out of
reach for the average guy. I try to keep my parts compatable with existing
products, such as shocks, winches, springs, etc.
The shock position of the UB flip kit (although about an inch higher than the
stock, late model position ) will still work with the catalog choices for the FJ40.
That way if all you can afford is a Heckethorn or Rancho 5000 it's easy to
source the recommended part. I do have pinless lowers for anyone who'd like to position there own shock.
All things are a compromise when you build one size fits all

thanks, dave


Dave, are you saying that the older, shock friendly location provides for a too short shock length overall? A number of modders mount a shock mount on the backside of the axle housing to keep the shock out of harm's way. I would think that that would provide for an even shorter shock length - although some do inboard the top mount some.

What would you suggest for those of us that have bashed shocks to smithereens from the lower, newer location (the reason I use the older location now)? I'm still sua and run a 4" lift like many others.

Thanks, Dan
 
Hi All:

Dave, thanks for the reply!

Guess I know less about suspension travel than I thought I did.

I assumed suspension movement was dictated by the spring length and shackle movement, with the shocks there just to control (dampen) the suspension.

As long as the shocks are long enough for the amount of travel the spring offers, the location of the shock mounts should not matter? Or, is it a question of how efficient or not shock mounts are to utilize the travel potential of the shock?

Thanks!

Alan

-----------------------------------------------------------------
It's good to question those of us who think we know it all.
No offense taken.
That's about correct, with a 2.5" lift, the appropriate shock will give you about
an 1 1/4" ~1 1/2" more travel mounted at the lower position and even more on a 4" lift.
Sounds picky, but hey, it's free wheel travel
Those numbers reflect linear travel at the shock pin. Measured at the tire center nearly doubles those numbers during articulation.
 

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