TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (15 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Drive line is on the floor!

MOTOR AND TRANS FREE TO A GOOD HOME. 1984 Mercedes 380 SL

417835929_701319051980696_925646197172243016_n.jpg

417833954_701319105314024_3480055077177107656_n.jpg

418568759_701319008647367_2004422958264660708_n.jpg
Did it run?

Cooking up a LeMons race car plan (my neighbor buys cars and cuts the cats,
So we’re waiting for the right one for a race car to come along… motors are usually junk on them…
 
Did it run?

Cooking up a LeMons race car plan (my neighbor buys cars and cuts the cats,
So we’re waiting for the right one for a race car to come along… motors are usually junk on them…
Best car we ever ran in lemons was a Kia Rio. It just never quit after many shenanigans including water in the fuel can
 
We’re looking for a manual gearbox right now… but really anything that can run preferably Japanese is the target right now…
These usually get pulled out of back yards and part of some domestic fireworks and stuff… get bought for scrap value, so no titles normally but that’s not an issue. (Title is also on my wish list…)
 
Made a pair of lifting beams to work with the lift. Worked out well.

424576624_713007830811818_3622369957337402151_n.jpg

424579398_713007864145148_5276635827659601266_n.jpg

424579784_713007907478477_8043822423970130587_n.jpg
 
I got the rear end vibs fixed by replacing the upper control arms and dialing in parallel flanges. The mechanical jack made it easy.
1706664269973.png
 

Check out post # 1653 where he shares a summary of the fire. It looks like a life-time of luck stars were consumed here.
With this happening outside of Boone in your backyard, I thought that there might be interest within this group too.
 
@LDowney I am speechless (that’s a lot for those that know me). Wow, absolute blessings.
 
Now sitting 3" lower than stock as measured at the pinch weld under the rocker. Axles are set at 13" center, 26" tire on 17 inch rim. OEM WMS to WMS is roughly 57" (differs front to rea a small amount) I am thinking of going with 56" on the new set up. I might :) have to do some tubbing.....

424868979_713513057427962_6315790991499743451_n.jpg

424928520_713513130761288_4426017006626281000_n.jpg
 
@LDowney I am speechless (that’s a lot for those that know me). Wow, absolute blessings.

Please accept my apology if I brought up bad memories here. I did not know that there were similar experiences.
 
Please accept my apology if I brought up bad memories here. I did not know that there were similar experiences.
No worries. My comment was that I am in a sales capacity and could talk to the wall if timing felt right. I am amazed at his rationale thought process to jump into a burning truck (after he himself being on fire) and back it out of the garage.

Yup, have lost both family and close friends to fire but that never played into your thoughtfulness of including the club in a truly harrowing situation. Thank you for sharing this.
 
Always fun stripping a few decades of crud off the bottom of a truck. Fair amount of rust along the inside rockers

424976927_714074917371776_2712998121177472245_n.jpg

424977388_714074897371778_2576072066249992509_n.jpg
 
Making some real progress on project Babs. I pulled out the laser and got all my reference marks laid out. Dropped the front cradle and shaved all the brackets out of the engine bay and stripped a fair portion.

I have an almost full wiring harness and front cradle with full suspension FREE, Come get it, I am NOT shipping
Chesnee SC 29323

426074601_718035546975713_5652915256237529159_n.jpg

425532808_718035516975716_7153549159762427682_n.jpg

426407616_718035570309044_4601519391028868696_n.jpg
 
IMG_3104.jpeg
IMG_3137.jpeg
Finally touched the blue 40, I haven't even started it since I went to Leatherwood, Ky in it in November and it twisted the rear driveshaft.

Sunday I flipped the rear springs for a 4"ish stretch in the rear. And discovered the clutch slave cylinder was completely rusted solid and the water pump is leaking. Guess that's what get for ignoring it for 3 months.

Goal is to replace the pinion seal, build a new rear driveshaft, extend the rear frame to axle brake line, cut the quarters, replace the water pump, replace the clutch slave cylinder, and hopefully reattach the air line for my ARB that got ripped out when the driveshaft went in to orbit.

This all has to get done before I go to Stoney lonesome and Hawk pride March 13th, while simultaneously moving and changing jobs. Seems easy enough....

Current plan is to cut the twisted tube off the yokes on a lathe with a buddy and retube it with whatever I can scrounge up for now. Can't find a driveshaft shop who will build be a shaft and keep cruiser joints. They all wanna go 1310. Which is an issue if I wanna keep the Tcase parking brake from what I've found so far.

I stuck the 35s back on to give my Steering a fighting change of survival before I have the chance to upgrade for the 37s and beadlocks
 
View attachment 3568592View attachment 3568596Finally touched the blue 40, I haven't even started it since I went to Leatherwood, Ky in it in November and it twisted the rear driveshaft.

Sunday I flipped the rear springs for a 4"ish stretch in the rear. And discovered the clutch slave cylinder was completely rusted solid and the water pump is leaking. Guess that's what get for ignoring it for 3 months.

Goal is to replace the pinion seal, build a new rear driveshaft, extend the rear frame to axle brake line, cut the quarters, replace the water pump, replace the clutch slave cylinder, and hopefully reattach the air line for my ARB that got ripped out when the driveshaft went in to orbit.

This all has to get done before I go to Stoney lonesome and Hawk pride March 13th, while simultaneously moving and changing jobs. Seems easy enough....

Current plan is to cut the twisted tube off the yokes on a lathe with a buddy and retube it with whatever I can scrounge up for now. Can't find a driveshaft shop who will build be a shaft and keep cruiser joints. They all wanna go 1310. Which is an issue if I wanna keep the Tcase parking brake from what I've found so far.

I stuck the 35s back on to give my Steering a fighting change of survival before I have the chance to upgrade for the 37s and beadlocks
IMG_3120.jpeg
 
More driveshaft adventures with the Blue 40,

Finally got around to working on building a new rear driveshaft. Of course I waited till the week before my trip, why would anyone ever start earlier.

Got the twisted shaft cut off the yokes, and used a lathe powered by cordless drill to clean them up. And centered the sch40 pipe as best we could. Unfortunately the driveshaft flange cracked when I pressed the busted U joint out so that's the current hold up.
IMG_3228.jpeg
IMG_3232.jpeg
IMG_3233.jpeg
IMG_3250.jpeg
 
Rebooted my CV's on the LX yesterday after the driver one puked all of its grease out of the inner boot due to a big tear. They'd been weeping for a few months and I had parts on hand to do the job but wasn't planning on doing it for another couple weeks.

Used McMaster clamps (aka. Pfran clamps)

Also replaced both outer tie rods.
9BEEDDD7-2F18-4A1F-9291-721BC72E4772.jpeg
D8392F47-743E-45BE-8D64-CDDCA289FFB3.jpeg
987FB626-34C6-4824-B810-D7F5E7D4DF1F.jpeg
1215EDA0-B7EC-49D3-9ED9-15EC70D2E2DF_1_201_a.jpeg

A0045107-C25B-4B26-8750-D0505856FF39_1_201_a.jpeg
 
Worked on the 40 today, new slave cylinder fixed the seized clutch issue, and did a temporary daisy chain of two factory soft lines in the rear while I wait for my extended stainless line to arrive.

Then I started converting my 8274 from the factory solenoid pacts to a contactor. Unsuccessfully…

Could it have something to do with buying a $28 winch contactor off Amazon? Yes. Does it? Unsure.

Got it all wired up, plugged the controller in, bumped winch out, and it started spooling in and wouldn’t stop. I had to disconnect the battery. Fortunately I’d had enough cable pulled out it didn’t get tight and burn the winch up. Disconnected all the control wires and it still did it when I tried reconnecting the battery. Even once I disconnected the ground cable from the motor(I assume it must be grounded through mounting as well). So I finally removed the contactor entirely and unhooked the winch from power for the time being.
Probably gonna return and buy the Albright for $80

Can’t forget I had to relocate the winch controller plug so I moved it to the dash, was very proud of the little bracket I’d whipped
Up, and forgot the route the wires through the hole before connecting. Oops

IMG_0428.jpeg


IMG_0433.jpeg


IMG_0436.jpeg


IMG_0434.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom