S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
No cab pull needed for this one?
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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This guy wants to do it the hard way, lol. He even has a lift, but in a very small garage.
I can’t speak on the sniper. Supply shortages deferred me from waiting the 6-8 weeks. I can 2nd everything Del is saying about EFI. I just finished a Howell kit and it feels like I did a motor swap. It’s woken the 2F up.
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Fixed it!
Finally wired up the lights in my ARB rear bumper. When I pulled the taillights to get to the wires, I found most of the bulbs were from 'Japan'. Are these OEM from new? 25 years and 270k miles?!? I know the china replacements from Advance have trouble lasting 25 days...
If so, that's a good run on Koito bulbs.
Lots of sweaty wrenching this week in the Sauna, I mean garage...
Repaired a broke wire in my TRD SC jumper harness, replaced my TPS and calibrated it, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced EGR modulator & installed a new booster, master cylinder & LSPV.
The old one was seized and not allowing fluid to the rear calipers.
Lost about 10lbs of water weight too!
Repaired a broke wire in my TRD SC jumper harness, replaced my TPS and calibrated it, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced EGR modulator & installed a new booster, master cylinder & LSPV.
The old one was seized and not allowing fluid to the rear calipers.
Lost about 10lbs of water weight too!
Rigged up a pressure bleeder for the 80 & 200.
Scored a Power Probe BA-10 cap and modded it to a Schwaben Pressure Bleeder
Scored a Power Probe BA-10 cap and modded it to a Schwaben Pressure Bleeder
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That's a definite improvement over the chain...
Yeah, tell me about it. I scored the cap for $30 shipped from Mud & I already had the bottle. Good value there
Made one of them years ago for my ls430 good stuff.
Definitely makes bleeding a lot easier and a one person job
Good afternoon cruisers, I could use some feed on the best order to do the following projects for my '97 LX450:
I was thinking the right order would be:
- Gut interior (window seal leak happened when I was out of town for a few months and I had mildew growing on the interior. Leak now repaired but it still smells pretty musty and I'd like to get a look at the floorboards to see if I have any rust from all the water that sat in the front passenger area. And then obviously repair the rust if it's there)
- Redo interior (new carpet, re-cover front seats, add DIY drawers with sleep platform, updated double DIN unit with Apple Carplay and backup camera, possibly plastic spray paint some of the interior plastic, whatever other fun modifications I can think of or find)
- Touch up or possibly even completely repaint the entire vehicle. It lived outside for a long time and the hood especially is looking pretty rough
- OME 2.5 inch lift kit
- New ARB front bumper and winch
- Rear bumper with swing out tire carrier (exact TBD)
- Lower profile roof rack (I currently have a cheapish Yakima safari basket and I miiiiight be able to squeeze in the garage with a lower profile rack)
I was thinking the right order would be:
- Gut interior
- Touch up or repaint
- Bumpers, OME 2.5 inch lift, roof rack
- Put in new interior and head unit/backup camera
- ARB lockers front and rear
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
Having a shop take your axles apart and pulling your thirds to add arb lockers will be twice as expensive. Yeah recommend you pull the thirds yourself and drop them off to have the lockers installed.
This is how I would do it.
Pull the interior
Paint and body
Replace interior
Order bumpers , roof rack, etc install as you buy them.
Install lift
Rebuild your axles - tear them apart and drop off thirds at ECGS
Get the thirds back and finish rebuilding axles.
This is how I would do it.
Pull the interior
Paint and body
Replace interior
Order bumpers , roof rack, etc install as you buy them.
Install lift
Rebuild your axles - tear them apart and drop off thirds at ECGS
Get the thirds back and finish rebuilding axles.
Yea...do you really need lockers? Front and rear?
Maybe some sort of trac lock or limited slip instead. Much cheaper, and air lockers can be finicky.
The lift and lockers are completely separate installs, most likely by different shops. No cost savings doing them at the same time.
Maybe some sort of trac lock or limited slip instead. Much cheaper, and air lockers can be finicky.
The lift and lockers are completely separate installs, most likely by different shops. No cost savings doing them at the same time.
If you don't think you will need lockers then don't do them for now. If you wheel the truck and find out you do want lockers do it at that time.
You can do the lift first or the bumpers.... personally i'd do the lift first
If you are doing bigger tires and then want to regear your axles afterwards rethink the lockers at that point as it will save on labor having the gears and locker installed in the third at the same time.
Like Del said pull the thirds and drop them off to be done and it will also save a lot.
I was reading about tire sizes for quite awhile yesterday. I still have a lot of tread on my BFG KO 285 75R16, so after reading about regearing for 35s, I'm thinking I should just wear out my current set and then rethink tire size, lockers, and gears when that time comes. I wouldn't mind going up a little bit in size, but no more than the 315 75R16. Given that my LX450 is not my daily driver or the vehicle I typically use on long road trips, it should be a nice long break between these big projects and the differentials.
The soft LX springs are sagging like an old lady whenever I have much weight in the truck, and I would probably get a shop to do the lift. Even my corporate douche self should be able to install the bumpers myself, as long as I don't get a rear bumper that requires any welding.
