These windows are harder to take out then they look. The old hard gasket probably didn’t help things.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Gullwings. Would have this side done but need to track down a tap. It had to be a sae tap so my metric taps won’t work.
And done. So far I really like them and I’m sure they will come in handy once I get a swing out rear bumper on.
Looking for some Info/assistance here.
While replacing the fuel injectors on my 80,
I damaged 2 of the 3 bolt threads for the fuel rail, in the aluminum lower intake plenum/manifold. (pic below)
I thought I did it right, Kroil soaked the stock steel bolts then removed, chased the threads with the correct size tap, M8x1.25. Met no resistance when chasing the threads. Added some cooper anti-seize but upon tightening to 15 ft. lbs. as per the FSM, the threads gave out.
Must have been overtorqued at some point in its life.
Anyhow, looking for info on moving up to the next size...
I have an M9x1.25 tap but bolts of that size are nowhere to be found; local Ace, big box hardware stores, McMaster Carr. Plus with a step up to this size, the fuel rail boss would need to drilled out to accommodate.
The manifold bosses look like they have a bit of room to drill out and retap.
Perhaps switching over to a standard thread might bridge the gap between M8 & M9?
Thanks
While replacing the fuel injectors on my 80,
I damaged 2 of the 3 bolt threads for the fuel rail, in the aluminum lower intake plenum/manifold. (pic below)
I thought I did it right, Kroil soaked the stock steel bolts then removed, chased the threads with the correct size tap, M8x1.25. Met no resistance when chasing the threads. Added some cooper anti-seize but upon tightening to 15 ft. lbs. as per the FSM, the threads gave out.
Must have been overtorqued at some point in its life.
Anyhow, looking for info on moving up to the next size...
I have an M9x1.25 tap but bolts of that size are nowhere to be found; local Ace, big box hardware stores, McMaster Carr. Plus with a step up to this size, the fuel rail boss would need to drilled out to accommodate.
The manifold bosses look like they have a bit of room to drill out and retap.
Perhaps switching over to a standard thread might bridge the gap between M8 & M9?
Thanks
Last edited:
fourtrax
SILVER Star
i would recommend time-sert and use the factory bolts. you can purchase additional inserts apart from the kit. and even a guide to help get the tap started straight.
++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,
threaded inserts threaded, stripped threads, threaded inserts, blown out sparkplugs, stripped threads, stripped out theads, inserts threaded inserts, ford sparkplug repair, threaded insert thread repair spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out...
www.timesert.com
++ TIME-SERT Metric Kits ++ thread repair kits and inserts repair stripped threads damaged threads repaired threads threaded inserts for metal thread inserts for metal aluminum inserts threaded inserts for aluminum
stripped out threads, damaged threads, blown out sparkplugs, stripped thread, stripped out theads, helicoils, ford sparkplug repair, repair ford sparkplugs blew out with time-sert, thread repair problems, spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out...
www.timesert.com
You should really use a thread chaser / thread cleaning tool and not a tap. MOST of the time you can get away with it, but sometimes you'll cut the existing material more than intended when "chasing" with a normal tap. I was just reading about this when working on my LS engine. While I have a an iron block where it's less of a big deal, lots of discussion popped up around this for the aluminum block guys cleaning out the head bolt threads on the LS blocks. @fourtrax nailed it, just do a couple heli-coils and it'll be stronger than factory anyway.
Got the Timeserts installed.
FYI - if anyone encounters this in the future, the timesert counter sink will not fit in the boss but the original threads were recessed a quarter inch so no need for it to sit flush.
The fuel rail spacer makes a great drill guide.
FYI - if anyone encounters this in the future, the timesert counter sink will not fit in the boss but the original threads were recessed a quarter inch so no need for it to sit flush.
The fuel rail spacer makes a great drill guide.
Last edited:
Electrical Help - CLT area
Let me start off by saying I hate electrical work......it must be something that goes back to childhood. Anywho, all I have left on my 60 is a bunch of electrical projects. Can anyone recommend an electrical wiz shop that can organize my rats nest of a project? I need the Rain Man of electrical work.
My 60 is my daily driver so it's gotta be relatively fast and not a side gig.
Thanks for the help in advance.
Let me start off by saying I hate electrical work......it must be something that goes back to childhood. Anywho, all I have left on my 60 is a bunch of electrical projects. Can anyone recommend an electrical wiz shop that can organize my rats nest of a project? I need the Rain Man of electrical work.
My 60 is my daily driver so it's gotta be relatively fast and not a side gig.
Thanks for the help in advance.
I will break you....
I hope not at least. Soaked in PB Blaster, cranked down on this 5 ton puller with a breaker bar, applied heat, tapped around with a punch, applied heat. Still no budge. Going to let it sit under pressure for 24 hours or so and then take another crack at it. Thinking about trying to find a press and see if I can press the shaft out. I'm not missing something here am I? It's just corrosion holding it on?
Also, yes I do have a fire extinguisher handy in case that grease gets lit up.
I hope not at least. Soaked in PB Blaster, cranked down on this 5 ton puller with a breaker bar, applied heat, tapped around with a punch, applied heat. Still no budge. Going to let it sit under pressure for 24 hours or so and then take another crack at it. Thinking about trying to find a press and see if I can press the shaft out. I'm not missing something here am I? It's just corrosion holding it on?
Also, yes I do have a fire extinguisher handy in case that grease gets lit up.
As long as you pulled the snap ring off, yeah, that's it.
Don't use a puller on the brake gear. It's very thin inside. A brass hammer with the back of the shaft in a pipe would be preferable to using a puller in this application.
Great, thanks for that tip, I'll take the pressure off asap because that's what it is on. Snap ring is off, but it snapped off, had to basically be chiseled off as it broke my snap ring pliers :/ this thing had a few more problems than I expected.
lumbee1
Native American
Very nice! Where are the rest of the pictures?
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #5,196
Caution. I have way too many window pics :/
Pics of that project/door? Or the repair. Repair is yet to come. Diagnostics day which required working on door to get it to open first. Steel lentil has 1/4 inch sag over 18’ which builder says is normal so I’ll be back Monday to tear into casing and jamb extension to prove his header is sagging. Hard to believe a doubled up 2x28” LBL would sag. But then again they don’t seem to believe me adding multiple 1200lb beams to the ceiling could possibly affect our door. It’s always a product or install fault till you prove them wrong.
Plus this builder is a damn yankee who’s mouth works way better than his ears lol. No offense to you lovable damn Yankees
You asked....
Today’s pita was a commercial slider in bougie downtown WINSTON penthouse. Busted roller. Amazing how many things work fine for 6 months and then quit. ESP with signs of tampering or general construction abuse. All about proving yourself in this industry despite obvious signs.
Btw. These are freaking sweet. May have to add to tool thread. Works on porous stone too in case I need to return to my roots hah
GRABO — Portable electric vacuum lifter - heavy lifting made easy
GRABO, this small, powerful, portable, battery powered lifting device has revolutionized the world of suction lifting technology. Come and join the revolution.
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
One hundred and sixty bolts. My forearms are burning just thinking about one hundred and sixty bolts.
lumbee1
Native American
I love this stuff and really miss the construction business. I need the cost of wood to drop so I can start on my garage. I also plan on building out my 3rd floor soon.Caution. I have way too many window pics :/
Pics of that project/door? Or the repair. Repair is yet to come. Diagnostics day which required working on door to get it to open first. Steel lentil has 1/4 inch sag over 18’ which builder says is normal so I’ll be back Monday to tear into casing and jamb extension to prove his header is sagging. Hard to believe a doubled up 2x28” LBL would sag. But then again they don’t seem to believe me adding multiple 1200lb beams to the ceiling could possibly affect our door. It’s always a product or install fault till you prove them wrong.
Plus this builder is a damn yankee who’s mouth works way better than his ears lol. No offense to you lovable damn Yankees
You asked....
View attachment 2567139View attachment 2567140View attachment 2567141View attachment 2567142
View attachment 2567149
Today’s pita was a commercial slider in bougie downtown WINSTON penthouse. Busted roller. Amazing how many things work fine for 6 months and then quit. ESP with signs of tampering or general construction abuse. All about proving yourself in this industry despite obvious signs.
Btw. These are freaking sweet. May have to add to tool thread. Works on porous stone too in case I need to return to my roots hah
GRABO — Portable electric vacuum lifter - heavy lifting made easy
GRABO, this small, powerful, portable, battery powered lifting device has revolutionized the world of suction lifting technology. Come and join the revolution.grabo.com
We had the manual version of the portable vacuum for lifting floor tiles in the lab. The tiles were only about 20lbs each but I grabbed the suction handle every time instead of moving them by hand.
lumbee1
Native American
4 in the box, two on top. Are you doing double beadlocks or single beadlock with spares?
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
The two on the table are one inner ring and one outer ring, both needed for each wheel. That box just has the outer rings. So it’s five sets for the four corners plus the spare.
