Good call Jason. Fred Anderson is an ARB dealer. They can order anything. Unsure if they can order OME parts.
@FAT PARTS
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread
- Thread starter jfz80
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Good call Jason. Fred Anderson is an ARB dealer. They can order anything. Unsure if they can order OME parts.
@FAT PARTS
Not sure where you are but midstate Toyota in ashboro is an arb dealer as well. They donated to Logans run as well and Brandon can help. We're fortunate to have a few arb resources fairly local to help us out.
edit: was on my phone at the time but I see you're in Raleigh now. FAT might be your best bet.
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All three of my vehicles are having issues.
1) the wife's Odyssey has developed a nasty leak by the vtec solenoid. I thought it was the valve cover gasket on the back set of cylinders but our local hero mechanic said it was probably the solenoid. Visual inspection and sure enough solenoid is gushing oil. $21 gasket will fix it up.
2) Stage 1+ tune on the GTI is f**king awesome. However, the clutch doesn't agree. The turbo spools and the clutch starts to slip. Clutch is going to set me back $700 in parts. To be honest, I'm a bit nervous to dive into this project. The GTI has a lot of plastic bits and one time use bolts.
3) The Cruiser. Last November on the way to the range, I almost lost control of the Cruiser going down a bumpy road. I was able to recover but it gave me a bad vibe that something was wrong. The TRE's were clean but old. I replaced them. The steering box and PS pump were leaking so I rebuild the box and replaced the pump. Even with alignment and steering box adjustment, there is something seriously off. The Cruiser drives straight for a bit and then wanders at the slightest bump in the road. Taller springs were installed in the front and now my caster is -0.2 and -0.3 which aint' good.
This weekend, I will be pulling the control arms and pushing out the offset bushing and pressing in OEM. That should put me about 6 degrees off target
Thanks to @fourtrax and searching MUD, I will pull the front bolts on the control arms, use bolts to adjust for the correct caster at the alignment shop, then carefully drive it home to make final modifications to the control arm mounts.
After the alignment is solid, I need to tear apart the axles for a regear. I've got a bad trunnion bearing on the driver's side from an accident with the PO. I've purchased new bearings and inner axle seals. I should probably stock up on Valvoline Pallidium grease next time I'm at the Napa.
Finally, the oil leak from the bottom end needs to be addressed. I've had 4 1/2 years of almost trouble free driving and now I get to pay for my fun.
1) the wife's Odyssey has developed a nasty leak by the vtec solenoid. I thought it was the valve cover gasket on the back set of cylinders but our local hero mechanic said it was probably the solenoid. Visual inspection and sure enough solenoid is gushing oil. $21 gasket will fix it up.
2) Stage 1+ tune on the GTI is f**king awesome. However, the clutch doesn't agree. The turbo spools and the clutch starts to slip. Clutch is going to set me back $700 in parts. To be honest, I'm a bit nervous to dive into this project. The GTI has a lot of plastic bits and one time use bolts.
3) The Cruiser. Last November on the way to the range, I almost lost control of the Cruiser going down a bumpy road. I was able to recover but it gave me a bad vibe that something was wrong. The TRE's were clean but old. I replaced them. The steering box and PS pump were leaking so I rebuild the box and replaced the pump. Even with alignment and steering box adjustment, there is something seriously off. The Cruiser drives straight for a bit and then wanders at the slightest bump in the road. Taller springs were installed in the front and now my caster is -0.2 and -0.3 which aint' good.
This weekend, I will be pulling the control arms and pushing out the offset bushing and pressing in OEM. That should put me about 6 degrees off target
Thanks to @fourtrax and searching MUD, I will pull the front bolts on the control arms, use bolts to adjust for the correct caster at the alignment shop, then carefully drive it home to make final modifications to the control arm mounts. After the alignment is solid, I need to tear apart the axles for a regear. I've got a bad trunnion bearing on the driver's side from an accident with the PO. I've purchased new bearings and inner axle seals. I should probably stock up on Valvoline Pallidium grease next time I'm at the Napa.
Finally, the oil leak from the bottom end needs to be addressed. I've had 4 1/2 years of almost trouble free driving and now I get to pay for my fun.
Some advise. Please look at the pictures above. I have the 4x4 labs rear bumper (top picture) which has what I believe is a 1 inch tube that protects the rear quarter panel. I would like to add more protection like (bottom picture).
So when adding more protection should I go with the same diameter tubing? Or larger diameter?
I figure that anything I add at this point would only be an added bonus to protect the quarter panels a little better.
From what I have read, the rubicon trail tends to bend 80series quarter panels. This is my effort to prevent that.
Anybody in the club own a bender that could help me out with the bends? Or know of a shop that could do the bends for me if I brought them the material and the measurements?
I'd use the same diameter for aesthetics, nothing else. Remember that as you extend those bars up, they will flex more into the quarter panel. The 4x4 labs wings aren't boxed like that other example, so they won't be as rigid either.
I have a bender you're free to use if you buy the die for the tubing you want. I only have 1.75 and 1.5" dies.
- Thread starter
- #2,806
Agree. Going up is tough. Ive considered it. If i did I would follow user member scrowley lead and go forward over wheel well and tie into slider. Steel a lil idea here and there and you may tie into bolts inside tailight housing to tailgate gap.
Before all that mad maxness id probably just do a bump out on the side extending parallel to ground. 10% of the tubing cost/weight/fab needs. Pushes you out and away instead so not a garuntee but worth the trade off to ME and it serves as a step when needed.
Excuse the crap rendition at incorrect perspective but like this sort of.
Pm concrete jungle. He made it through fine rear aussie only. F/R bumper and sliders. Gor one rear pass door dent from a section with BA boulder just before cadallac hill IIRC.
Before all that mad maxness id probably just do a bump out on the side extending parallel to ground. 10% of the tubing cost/weight/fab needs. Pushes you out and away instead so not a garuntee but worth the trade off to ME and it serves as a step when needed.
Excuse the crap rendition at incorrect perspective but like this sort of.
Pm concrete jungle. He made it through fine rear aussie only. F/R bumper and sliders. Gor one rear pass door dent from a section with BA boulder just before cadallac hill IIRC.
- Thread starter
- #2,808
Here is scrowleys. His final quarter is separate bolt on vs the wheel arch.
I like the arch only look. Perhaps with above described bump out.
Take a look at his thread to see his unique tie in but you could try the spot i mentioned above. More for grazes not rolls though.
New tube bender and New project. W/pics
I like the arch only look. Perhaps with above described bump out.
Take a look at his thread to see his unique tie in but you could try the spot i mentioned above. More for grazes not rolls though.
New tube bender and New project. W/pics
I thought about doing the same thing. I actually reinforced the wing before installation with two vertical ribs. I thought it was overkill at the time but if I were to install additional bracing, the wing wouldn't flex as much.
Replying to my own post.All three of my vehicles are having issues.
1) the wife's Odyssey has developed a nasty leak by the vtec solenoid. I thought it was the valve cover gasket on the back set of cylinders but our local hero mechanic said it was probably the solenoid. Visual inspection and sure enough solenoid is gushing oil. $21 gasket will fix it up.
2) Stage 1+ tune on the GTI is f**king awesome. However, the clutch doesn't agree. The turbo spools and the clutch starts to slip. Clutch is going to set me back $700 in parts. To be honest, I'm a bit nervous to dive into this project. The GTI has a lot of plastic bits and one time use bolts.
3) The Cruiser. Last November on the way to the range, I almost lost control of the Cruiser going down a bumpy road. I was able to recover but it gave me a bad vibe that something was wrong. The TRE's were clean but old. I replaced them. The steering box and PS pump were leaking so I rebuild the box and replaced the pump. Even with alignment and steering box adjustment, there is something seriously off. The Cruiser drives straight for a bit and then wanders at the slightest bump in the road. Taller springs were installed in the front and now my caster is -0.2 and -0.3 which aint' good.
This weekend, I will be pulling the control arms and pushing out the offset bushing and pressing in OEM. That should put me about 6 degrees off target
After the alignment is solid, I need to tear apart the axles for a regear. I've got a bad trunnion bearing on the driver's side from an accident with the PO. I've purchased new bearings and inner axle seals. I should probably stock up on Valvoline Pallidium grease next time I'm at the Napa.
Finally, the oil leak from the bottom end needs to be addressed. I've had 4 1/2 years of almost trouble free driving and now I get to pay for my fun.
I swapped the offset bushings for OEM bushings in the control arms, and found the source of my wiggly steering. The driver's side bushings were both in pretty bad shape. The rear driver's side bushing center fell out when I removed the control arm from the mount. The front driver's side bushing pressed out with very little effort indicating the bushing sleeve separated from the bushing. Both passenger side bushings were in great shape but still needed to be replaced.
Thanks to @fourtrax and @4LowandSlow for the helping hands, advice, and steel.
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What about something like this?
I like his too. You could get crazy and do both!
40LandCruising
Anderson
Do 4-speed and 3-speed Bellhousing have the same mounting points? And in a 4-speed swap can you just flip front and rear driveshafts?
Only at the engine and frame mounts.
40LandCruising
Anderson
So if I get a 4-speed bellhousing, it will bolt to the frame in the same place as my 3-speed bellhousing?
Yes if it’s from a 75-80 4spd bellhousing. The 4spd bellhousing mounts changed at some point. Also make sure it’s not a 4spd bellhousing from a 55 as those are different frame mounts.
Some do some don’t. Be sure to check / ask when you find one.
40LandCruising
Anderson
Awesome! Thank you.
What do I do now?
Are any teeth Damaged on the ring gear or the pinion gear?
Spinning around is that the only bolt missing from the ring gear carrier?
Spinning around is that the only bolt missing from the ring gear carrier?
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