TWIN HEADS, the new series from fox (1 Viewer)

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Nice work. Is boost running too! Or one at a time?

I had big plans to get some stuff done on my and turbophil's 6bt LX along with stoping by to see your progress and trade some parts this weekend, but my daughter decided to come a couple weeks early.
 
WOW! Congrats Jess! Do we have a pic or a name?

Our progress does not matter compared to that stuff.

Boost engine is about as far as possible from running. Taking it to the machine shop on monday to do a once over on it. Bearings looked really good and overall pretty happy with the bottom end. Going to steam clean up the parts and start painting or powder coating pieces.
 
Ahh u read my mind....
 
Eleanor Lee
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Wow. In 10 years, you might be lucky to have a helper, like we had this weekend.

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Sorry I was to tired yesterday to type this up but to everyone that came out and helped me put this beast back on the road THANK YOU. TAC is a true family. I'm not even close to being a mechanic but I'm 1000 times closer then when I got started. These past few weekends I've finally understood the passion everyone has for these vehicles and the no question asked attitude to help anyone in need. My daughter is already asking when we can take it out and go wheeling. At the end that is what this all is about. FAMILY. So THANK YOU.

I think this picture summarize it all...now on to the next build....Boost
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Congrats Jess!!!!!

And awesome Sammy...heart warming posts!
 
@2fpower in case I didn't make sense with my text the other day. The clevite bearings that you can order from Rockauto are Japanese made bearings. I do not know if they are the OEM supplier to Toyota but they are much cheaper then calling up Dan or Onur. I debated back and forth on these because Toyota matches each bearing to the rod end or that portion of the crank, IE the 1-6 numbering system. However, if you do the math it becomes apparent that Mr T went way overboard here. The bearings are matched to the ten thousandth of an inch ! This is really unnecessary unless you were trying to blueprint the motor. When I compared the thickness of the Clevite bearings to the 3 different sizes of factory bearings that my truck came with there was less than 5 ten thousandths of a spread.

As for the rings they are NPR ( I am told that is OEM ) from perfectengine.com . They are some very high quality units and were also cheaper than going to Dan or Onur. They will come with instructions that tell you what grit to use when de glazing the bores along with what angle etc etc. I just had the machine shop run the bores when they finished decking the block.

I'm at close to 7k miles since the rebuild and the truck has never ran this good. It is extremely smooth both cruising and at idle. No more start up noise either, that may be due to the upgraded timing components though.
 
Thanks again for your help. I also found your prior thread discussing this, and it makes sense.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bearings-and-rings-question.808522/

Rings from NPR are $120 or so, don't know what dealer prices are yet.

http://www.perfectengine.com/NPR_SWT10184_Piston_Ring_Set_p/npr-swt10184.htm

My machinist is telling me not to get premium rings, to get the cast rings as they will seat faster in an engine with some wear. Any thoughts on that or what the NPR rings are made from?

ok, just found this...

http://www.jegpistons.com.ar/Catalogos/NPR/Aros 100-103.pdf

I read this four times, and still don't know what it is telling me when I compare it to part NPR SWT10184

Is it saying that the top ring is gas nitrated, while an inner ring is chrome?
 
I'm not sure what he means by cast and not premium rings. NPR's are either chromed or nitrided so that they hold up longer. If you call perfectengine.com they will tell you all about the rings over the phone. The part number I got for my 94 was NPR-SWT10184. The rings will seat fine as long as you have the bores deglazed before you put the pistons back in. There is also an appropriate run our procedure to break everything in once you have the motor back in the truck. They say you will burn oil for the first few thousand miles until the rings seat but I so far I haven't experienced any oil loss with mine.
 
Nice. Is that my new screen name?

Yes and no. We had 4 80 owners over 6' tall working at the house this weekend.

I really like FOO's additional legroom.
 
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Well BDH is back home. Temp ran 181-185 all the way home. Ran great. I re-did the valve cover but there is still a small leak somewhere. Rob what did you use on yours? Filled the front birfs/knuckles with grease. Greased up the driveshafts changed the oil and transmission fluid when I got home. Installed two inch sway bar spacers from slee
Next are lights and few little things. Again thank you for all the help!
 
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I have been working to clean up engine parts. I know way to much detail work, but where do you stop??? Cleaning up all the castings first, then cover any gasket surface then sand blast clean.

I need to get a plan of what gets what color, and start baking them. Need to find a picture of a 1fz supercharged for reference.

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someone mentioned armor for the front diff. I recall someone using a sewer pipe cap. Well went searching at my old work and found this 12" stainless steel piece. May have a life under FOO.
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Where should I get plastigauge. Looks like I need to be able to test to .032-.050mm and .042 - .060mm

I don't understand the under sized bearings. When do you buy these? Seems like you are making things too loose. Not like you can add surface area to the crank.

If you turn down the crank, you would need oversized bearings to make up for that space.

Confused, I am.
 
I have been working to clean up engine parts. I know way to much detail work, but where do you stop??? Cleaning up all the castings first, then cover any gasket surface then sand blast clean.

I need to get a plan of what gets what color, and start baking them. Need to find a picture of a 1fz supercharged for reference.

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Holy smokes, those are clean! In true 2fpower fashion, boost's engine bay is going to look good!!!
 
Where should I get plastigauge. Looks like I need to be able to test to .032-.050mm and .042 - .060mm

I don't understand the under sized bearings. When do you buy these? Seems like you are making things too loose. Not like you can add surface area to the crank.

If you turn down the crank, you would need oversized bearings to make up for that space.

Confused, I am.
Should be able to get plastigauge at any LAPS.

Even though the bearings are thicker, they're called undersize because the crank journals are made smaller by grinding. I see how that might be confusing.
 

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