Turn Signal switch position (2 Viewers)

Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
97
Location
Tampa, FL
I've developed a problem with the turn signal switch that has worked fine since installing it a couple years ago during restoration on my 71 FJ40. The problem seems to involve the position of the switch assembly that is clamped to the steering column tube. I can't position the switch where both right and left will work from a single set position on the column. If I loosen and cock the switch to right and engage the lever I can can get the left to flash, but can't get the left to light from that switch position unless I cock the switch back to the left and engage the lever which lights the right signals. No wires have separated and no connections have changed. I've tried to find a position on the column where both sides will work, but can't. Anybody got an Idea?
Thanks
 

locklaw

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
71
Location
South Africa
The shaft which goes into the switch box lower down the column has a flat plate at the end which does the actual switching. It is held on by a crimp of sorts.

Over the years this wears loose, causing the issue that you have.

You can try JB Weld, glues or the like but a 1 minute solution works best. Take a tapered punch and your favorite hammer, aim for the centre of the shaft (easy, there is a hole) and form the punched end tighter over the shaft and your signals should work fine again.
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
20,201
Once you align the actual switch below the dash I would tighten the clamp as hard as you can. If it moves again would open the clamp and move the switch out of the way. The wrap the column a couple of times with electric tape. Then tighten the clamp again.
 
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
97
Location
Tampa, FL
The shaft which goes into the switch box lower down the column has a flat plate at the end which does the actual switching. It is held on by a crimp of sorts.

Over the years this wears loose, causing the issue that you have.

You can try JB Weld, glues or the like but a 1 minute solution works best. Take a tapered punch and your favorite hammer, aim for the centre of the shaft (easy, there is a hole) and form the punched end tighter over the shaft and your signals should work fine again.
Thanks for the valuable info. These are the things that drive you nuts, but luckily, you've been down the same road.
Thanks again for your courtesy and your help.
 

locklaw

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
71
Location
South Africa
Thanks for the valuable info. These are the things that drive you nuts, but luckily, you've been down the same road.
Thanks again for your courtesy and your help.
Happy to help sir. Yep, been down that road and a bit of violence seems to do the trick.
 
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
19
Location
COUTTS ALBERTA CANADA
Thanks for the valuable info. These are the things that drive you nuts, but luckily, you've been down the same road.
Thanks again for your courtesy and your help.
Have same issue with my 70, is it the actual pin in the arm you are hitting with punch/hammer? Sorry to ask but pic would be nice if available.... tia
 
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
97
Location
Tampa, FL
Have same issue with my 70, is it the actual pin in the arm you are hitting with punch/hammer? Sorry to ask but pic would be nice if available.... tia
fj40 turn sig repair.jpg

How's that?
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
68
Location
maa
Thank you, helped me also. Does this switch/lever arm have a self cancelling mechanism ? While both left and right signals work fine, the lever pops back to center from a right hand turn only, left hand, it stays on. Any advice would be appreciated.

thank hyou
 

65swb45

Elder Statesman
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Apr 14, 2004
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818-953-9230
Thank you, helped me also. Does this switch/lever arm have a self cancelling mechanism ? While both left and right signals work fine, the lever pops back to center from a right hand turn only, left hand, it stays on. Any advice would be appreciated.

thank hyou
The cancellers are located on the head of the switch, directly behind the steering wheel. They are riveted to the pot metal housing, one one each side of the arm.
A worn bushing in the head of the column tube eventually allows the canceller pin on the wheel to get beyond the ‘safe’ point, and it catches the riveted canceller, momentarily locking the steering wheel.😱
Then, either the pin breaks, the canceller breaks, or you crash the truck!😱😱
IOW, you need to do something with yours…NOW!
 
Joined
Aug 29, 2018
Messages
97
Location
Tampa, FL
Thank you, helped me also. Does this switch/lever arm have a self cancelling mechanism ? While both left and right signals work fine, the lever pops back to center from a right hand turn only, left hand, it stays on. Any advice would be appreciated.

thank hyou
Yes it does cancel. Make sure that the backing flange (the plate that is located directly behind the steering wheel) is pulled up to about an 1/8th of an inch from the steering wheel. There is a large phillips head screw at the 6 0'clock position (on the bottom) on the backing flange (it points toward the passenger side)the that will allow you to slide the flange up or down on the steering column tube. You'll notice a round stud that protrudes from the flange that trips the lever and cancels the signal when wheel come back to center.
 

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