Builds Truckasaurus - linuxgod's Build Thread (6 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Remind me, do you have a panhard correction bracket? That could do wonders for the rear.

Thanks for the details, good to know.... in regards to the bump stops I have noticed when loaded down my rear have occasionally bottomed out coming off drops and high speed trails. I want to upgrade mainly the rears but I don't want to limit up travel. The Duros mention they reduce up-travel by 2 inches, is that something you have seen?

You might consider airbags as a bump stop, that's adjustable for load and other things.

 

[linuxgod]

Remind me, do you have a panhard correction bracket? That could do wonders for the rear.

I don't. When the bolt-on version becomes available I'm going to try it, but when I asked about adjustable panhard rods and correction brackets at Slee the tech there didn't think they really did much on the 200.

All of my bottoming out in the rear I think was due to having all my camping gear in there plus water and fuel and propane on the swingout. I didn't weigh in but I'm suspecting I was easily 500-600# extra out back. That's a helluva lot of extra heft on rocky trails

You might consider airbags as a bump stop, that's adjustable for load and other things.

Yeah I used to have them. I've decided they're not worth the hassle to me, but I do think they're good for people who have a highly variable load range but don't want heavier coils when unloaded. I've found unless fully deflated them they limited rear travel a bit, and on this trip loaded with gear but no trailer but traveling overland via rock trails like the Dollhouse in the Maze that's exactly where I need the support *and* the travel. Now that I have the rear bumper I'm pretty happy with heavier springs in the rear all the time - the Ironman medium duty coils are great for my normal load and they ride pretty nicely with the extra weight in the rear for tent camping. They're a tad less support than I want when towing, and if they had been available I would've gone with the OME 2723 coils at the time but I don't think I want that much support when empty.

 

[TLC2013]

Remind me, do you have a panhard correction bracket? That could do wonders for the rear.



You might consider airbags as a bump stop, that's adjustable for load and other things.

Remind me, do you have a panhard correction bracket? That could do wonders for the rear.



You might consider airbags as a bump stop, that's adjustable for load and other things.

I have considered airbags but as @linuxgod mentioned in a later post I also don’t want to limit any up travel. Air bags are probably the most logical solution to my problem but I am a tad stubborn and don’t want to mess with them.
Reading more into the Duro stops I think I’ll go with their rear bump stops to start. Being progressive they should help with the jarring feeling I get when bottoming out . I occasionally encounter this when all loaded down with camping gear, family and 85lb dog.
The pan hard drop bracket has helped a lot for me, hopefully adding the bump stops will be the ticket.

 

[linuxgod]

I have considered airbags but as @linuxgod mentioned in a later post I also don’t want to limit any up travel. Air bags are probably the most logical solution to my problem but I am a tad stubborn and don’t want to mess with them.
Reading more into the Duro stops I think I’ll go with their rear bump stops to start. Being progressive they should help with the jarring feeling I get when bottoming out . I occasionally encounter this when all loaded down with camping gear, family and 85lb dog.
The pan hard drop bracket has helped a lot for me, hopefully adding the bump stops will be the ticket.

Timbren also makes a towing-specific bump stop. It’s more progressive and taller than the normal active bumps so it adds some support when loading down but is still capable of full compression, or so I understand it. I suspect like the Firestone airbags though it’s much harder to fully compress.

Airbags are ok if you only need them when towing and then just fully deflate when off-road. They’re just one more thing to deal with though and I’m starting to prefer just relying on my WD hitch

 

[linuxgod]

Out with the old, in with the new. Joined the 35s club with Falken Wildpeak R/T01 in 35x11.5R17. Very first impressions: a bit more compliant on bumps than the Nitto Ridge Grappler even at a slightly lower PSI (though this is a C load tire vs the E load I had), but also slightly louder than a new Nitto RG (but waaaaay quieter than a Nitto with 30k miles on it).

I'm excited to try them in some snow this winter - the partially siped edges make me think these should do rather well, even though they're not 3-snowflake rated.

Falken quotes this 35" tire as 34.8", so as close to a "true 35" as you can get I think. So far no rubbing at full lock very low speed parking. (Though for others reference I do have the KDSS relo kit and I'm on +25 offset wheels).

 

[linuxgod]

Based on this calculator I think the correct tire pressure for a 35x11.5r17 is 34psi. Paging @gaijin to confirm, as Discount Tire set mine at 39psi, which I assume was done to match the 2500# stated load capacity of a P285/60r18 and not to match the SUV-derated load capacity of the same.

Tire Pressure Calculator

Easy to use tire pressure calculator. Use our tire pressure calculator to calculate the new tire pressure needed when changing tire sizes.

tiresize.com

The bigger question is what I should run my rear tires at when towing, as my rear axle weight can approach 5400# when I'm completely loaded down. If I use the same calculator with my new tire as the OEM and bump the PSI up I'm thinking I should probably run 44-45psi in the rear

CAT scale from a year or two ago. I'm typically 100-200# less than this when I've weighed since then so I'm calling 5420# probably the max weight I'd possibly carry

 

[linuxgod]

Asfir transfer case skid took a good hit in Moab somewhere in the Maze (I think on our way to the Dollhouse). Seems to have done its job. I need to pull it off and straighten it with a BFH.

 

[gaijin]

Based on this calculator I think the correct tire pressure for a 35x11.5r17 is 34psi. Paging @gaijin to confirm, as Discount Tire set mine at 39psi, which I assume was done to match the 2500# stated load capacity of a P285/60r18 and not to match the SUV-derated load capacity of the same.

Tire Pressure Calculator

Easy to use tire pressure calculator. Use our tire pressure calculator to calculate the new tire pressure needed when changing tire sizes.

tiresize.com

View attachment 3404984

The bigger question is what I should run my rear tires at when towing, as my rear axle weight can approach 5400# when I'm completely loaded down. If I use the same calculator with my new tire as the OEM and bump the PSI up I'm thinking I should probably run 44-45psi in the rear

View attachment 3404989
View attachment 3404988

CAT scale from a year or two ago. I'm typically 100-200# less than this when I've weighed since then so I'm calling 5420# probably the max weight I'd possibly carry

View attachment 3404990

My calcs show that the RCTIP for those 35x11.50R17LT E tires on your 2013 LC200 is 35psi F/R.

34psi is OK, it's only one lb short by my calcs, but I always round up to be safe.

I've given up trying to figure out DT recommendations... I just assume they are wrong unless I can verify.

Since the Rear GAWR for your 2013 LC200 is only 4300 lb, and you are weighing in at 5420 lb, you are overweight. Your choice, but I have no recommendation for that.

HTH

 

[gaijin]

Asfir transfer case skid took a good hit in Moab somewhere in the Maze (I think on our way to the Dollhouse). Seems to have done its job. I need to pull it off and straighten it with a BFH.

View attachment 3404991

Just my US$0.02, but I'd leave it alone. Simply banging it back into shape may make it look better, but may actually weaken/fatigue the metal and leave it less strong for the next impact.

HTH

 

[linuxgod]

My calcs show that the RCTIP for those 35x11.50R17LT E tires on your 2013 LC200 is 35psi F/R.

34psi is OK, it's only one lb short by my calcs, but I always round up to be safe.

I've given up trying to figure out DT recommendations... I just assume they are wrong unless I can verify.

Since the Rear GAWR for your 2013 LC200 is only 4300 lb, and you are weighing in at 5420 lb, you are overweight. Your choice, but I have no recommendation for that.

HTH

Thanks. Yeah I know I'm overweight, quit fat shaming me man!

 

[linuxgod]

Just my US$0.02, but I'd leave it alone. Simply banging it back into shape may make it look better, but may actually weaken/fatigue the metal and leave it less strong for the next impact.

HTH

Fair enough. I'm going to pull it and see how much clearance there now is to the transfer case. If it's close I will likely try to straighten it, but if it's not then I will take your advice and leave it be.

 

[TeCKis300]

Based on this calculator I think the correct tire pressure for a 35x11.5r17 is 34psi. Paging @gaijin to confirm, as Discount Tire set mine at 39psi, which I assume was done to match the 2500# stated load capacity of a P285/60r18 and not to match the SUV-derated load capacity of the same.

Tire Pressure Calculator

Easy to use tire pressure calculator. Use our tire pressure calculator to calculate the new tire pressure needed when changing tire sizes.

tiresize.com

View attachment 3404984

The bigger question is what I should run my rear tires at when towing, as my rear axle weight can approach 5400# when I'm completely loaded down. If I use the same calculator with my new tire as the OEM and bump the PSI up I'm thinking I should probably run 44-45psi in the rear

View attachment 3404989
View attachment 3404988

CAT scale from a year or two ago. I'm typically 100-200# less than this when I've weighed since then so I'm calling 5420# probably the max weight I'd possibly carry

View attachment 3404990

Your tire load ratings are pretty close to mine. Your vehicle weight solo a bit heavier, and towing weights similar.

Unladen
34/35 PSI is good from a tire load perspective. If that feels good to you, then you are good to go. I find that I like 38-40 PSI much better from a handling and stability perspective. The ride is still comfortable but with taller sidewalls and a higher center of gravity, the few added PSI buys quite a bit more stability and cornering traction. At 35 PSI, my sidewalls will roll over too easily and cornering traction suffers. I get more cornering traction with a few more PSI and the shoulder tread blocks don't see as much punishment for my driving style. A bit more MPG efficiency is good here too. Props to DT for a good starting pressure, probably from more practical experience.

Towing
Definitely need to air up the rear tires and 45-48 PSI is what I target. The front doesn't necessarily need more air from a load perspective but can really benefit from more air as it plays a part in lateral and sway stability of the combined rig with more dynamic loads. I'll target 40-43 PSI at the front. I go for the higher end of those ranges for a few factors - heavier load out, hot summer days, high winds, and/or mountain driving.

 

[linuxgod]

Your tire load ratings are pretty close to mine. Your vehicle weight solo a bit heavier, and towing weights similar.

Unladen
34/35 PSI is good from a tire load perspective. If that feels good to you, then you are good to go. I find that I like 38-40 PSI much better from a handling and stability perspective. The ride is still comfortable but with taller sidewalls and a higher center of gravity, the few added PSI buys quite a bit more stability and cornering traction. At 35 PSI, my sidewalls will roll over too easily and cornering traction suffers. I get more cornering traction with a few more PSI and the shoulder tread blocks don't see as much punishment for my driving style. A bit more MPG efficiency is good here too. Props to DT for a good starting pressure, probably from more practical experience.

Towing
Definitely need to air up the rear tires and 45-48 PSI is what I target. The front doesn't necessarily need more air from a load perspective but can really benefit from more air as it plays a part in lateral and sway stability of the combined rig with more dynamic loads. I'll target 40-43 PSI at the front. I go for the higher end of those ranges for a few factors - heavier load out, hot summer days, high winds, and/or mountain driving.

Thank you sir, I appreciate the real world experience.

 

[linuxgod]

Did new front sway bar end links. The rubber bushings on my last set looked kind of cracked and that was *before* I did my KDSS relo kit at 111k and moved the end links to the outside of the cradle. I'm at 142k and probably could have run the bushings longer but a rock had bent the washer I had in front on the driver's side and had dug into the bushing.

Getting the bolts back in, particularly the passenger's side, was a PITA. While mounting the end links outside the cradle is less tweaking than on the inside, they're still not exactly straight. I do have some aluminum blocks and one of these days I'm going to drill and tap them to use as an "extended' KDSS relo kit and push the sway bar another 1/2" forward, which I think will remove most of the tweaking that is occurring.

Annoyingly once I got everything apart I thought I had new washers but couldn't find them. Since the bolt head is flanged I just reinstalled without them. And then of course when I was cleaning up at 6pm I found them. Figures. Not sure if washers are good or bad to use in this setup since they're at risk for getting bent into the rubber bushing, but then again of there is any rotation of the metal sleeve inside the bushing I'm not sure I want it happening directly against the bolt head. I'll keep an eye on them for now... if (whenever)I pull things apart to do the extended KDSS relo I'll probably reinstall them.

 

[linuxgod]

Adjusted the BP51s this weekend as well. I'm at 2 compression, 6 or 7 rebound. The fronts adjusted easily enough and were accessible when I turned the tires outward. The rears which I thought would be easier sucked though. The rear shocks really want to rotate and even with a strap wrench I had particular trouble rotating the passenger's side rear with the vehicle on the ground. That said with 36psi in the 35s I'm really happy with city street manners now.

 

[linuxgod]

New steering rack this week. $2790 after tax. oof. Dealer wrote it up as 9.4 hours of labor, and I'm sure they spent every bit of that. I'd had a popping noise I'd hear when when parking and I'd added more fluid to the power steering reservoir than I would expect given how slow the leak was previously, so sadly at 150k it was time. Noise is gone though the steering is noticeably stiffer.

 

[linuxgod]

Finally got my Yaesu FTM400 properly installed. It’s been sitting in the net behind the drivers seat since the fall. I’m not sure which part I hated the most: fishing wire through the firewall grommet, figuring out how to route wires mostly hidden, attempting to mount the unit under the drivers seat, or tracing why power seemed to be flickering in and out.

In the end I used zip ties to hold it to 2 different points under there. I didn’t bolt the radio mounting bracket into anything because there’s no way to do so without removing the seat, and I really don’t want to have to do that if I ever have to remove the radio. Oh and the answer to the power flickering was that the Yaesu 2-pin plug on the extension wire was for some reason not making good contact with the radio pigtail, but removing the pins and crimping them again seemed to do the trick.

I still need to install my RLCA skids, panhard relo bracket, and shock guards, bang out the dent in the transfer case skid, and build my fridge platform. Thinking it’s going to be a few busy weekends before Cruise Moab

 

[linuxgod]

Fridge platform in progress. Left side bolts to the drawer via L brackets and pronged T nuts. Right side will bolt to the seat bolt in the floor in front and to the seat bracket in the rear. Im
Hoping that sufficient to hold it in place. I removed the drawer to allow me to drill through it for the L bracket mounts and discovered the bolts attaching the drawer to the seat latch points in the middle were loose. Tightened them but I guess 15-20k miles of vibration wasn’t helpful. Will keep an eye on them.

If I was doing an half drawer again I’d make a full floor platform and bolt it to the D ring anchor points.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Try some purple loctite, good on smaller fasteners for vibration stuff

 

[linuxgod]

Try some purple loctite, good on smaller fasteners for vibration stuff

Thanks, good idea. I didn’t want to go too strong as I want the drawer to be removable if needed and access to those bolts is tight (the rear one requires me to lay on the tailgate on my stomach and reach into the back to the drawer). I’d considered some Elmer’s glue but this would probably be better