Builds Troopie build

[Henry James the 47th]

Excellent build Crusher.

A question about your pto drive mod - I noticed you reversed the shaft and modded the gear and spacer. Did you consider the idea of splicing an extension onto the drive shaft so that a front and rear output (like some of the older pto units had) would be possible? What led you to the solution you came up with?

 

[swamprunner]

well I live at the beach so salt is an issue...I don't think its as bad as up north with the salt on the roads but its close.

I just found a lot of 3" sanitary pipe which is food grade stainless. There is enough there to do the whole exhaust and its only $100. . It includes 6 pre bent 90's and 45's with flanges. I can't pass it up for that price.

I think it came from a brewery...maybe my exhaust will smell like beer.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

well I live at the beach so salt is an issue...I don't think its as bad as up north with the salt on the roads but its close.

I just found a lot of 3" sanitary pipe which is food grade stainless. There is enough there to do the whole exhaust and its only $100. . It includes 6 pre bent 90's and 45's with flanges. I can't pass it up for that price.

I think it came from a brewery...maybe my exhaust will smell like beer.

Run bio diesel and it can smell like beer and chicken. ( Sorry Wayne, I couldn't resist)

 

[swamprunner]

I already do run blended wvo...it does smell like fried chicken. Thats exactly what I said when I found this tubing....my truck is gonna smell like chicken and beer.

hijack over...done mucking up your thread.

 

[crushers]

well, at first i thought of running front and rear outputs but i didn't like the idea of not being able to isolate between front and rear drive so i passed on that idea.
what led to the solution? lack of sleep.

Excellent build Crusher.

A question about your pto drive mod - I noticed you reversed the shaft and modded the gear and spacer. Did you consider the idea of splicing an extension onto the drive shaft so that a front and rear output (like some of the older pto units had) would be possible? What led you to the solution you came up with?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

well, at first i thought of running front and rear outputs but i didn't like the idea of not being able to isolate between front and rear drive so i passed on that idea.
what led to the solution? lack of sleep.

I see. What problem did you anticipate with a set up having the front and rear drive shafts spinning at the same time? I mean the engagement of the winch only occurs when the lever at the winch is swung to the engaged position, so what would it matter if the shaft was spinning without engaging the winch?

 

[crushers]

accidents happen ...

plus, at the time i could not find the front and rear output PTO drive box that would fit the 2 piece t/case. that was the final decision maker ...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

As far as I know, the pto with front and rear outputs to fit the splitcase is a rare bird. I've seen one on a 1982-ish German BJ40, and that's it. and of course, on a later 40, much like a 47, the fuel tank is in the way, so the rear output is uh, decorative.

 

[crushers]

the first aluminum panel was unacceptable so a new sheet is on order ...
getting ready to ship the body to the body shop.
the rear emptied
the cab area starting to look naked ...

 

[crushers]

of course the time consuming part is boxing and labling every part for later ...

of course, once again an addition was added. a pair of rows of nutzerts to be inserted prior to painting. the holes calculated, drilled but no nutzerts installed till after painting. makes complete sense but adds to the time crunch.

 

[crushers]

an aluminum jig was made up to make sure the holes were even spaced side to side as well as distance inbetween. the allen wrenches are to keep the jig from moving.
the holes drilled parallel to each other.

the body sitting with the chassis once again pulled out from below.

 

[crushers]

just some pics of the chassis
and
yes there is snow on the ground here

 

[crushers]

i am not a big fan of these flares since they have a tendency to sag over time
but my solution is to use 5/8" wide SS to form to the wheel well to "pinch" the rubber between it and the sheet metal making a tight strong fit.
the units will be held on with 5mm ss bolts into nutzerts that will be drilled now but installed after the bodywork.

pretty interesting making these 4 units, very time consuming but the fit is acceptable *last pic*
the wire that inserts into the outer edge of the rubber flare is being replaced with 3/16" SS rod.

 

[crushers]

some more pics of the flare reinforcement application ...

 

[crushers]

stripping out the engine compartment ...

 

[The Jade Bean]

Wow!...you guys are awesome!

 

[Tapage]

Nice Crushers one step closer .. but what it's nice are those serious boobs there ..

 

[crushers]

with the windshield removed we can see the hidden rust pockets ...
not bad at all considering the age and mileage of the body

 

[crushers]

remove bolts holding on the door handle
remove clip by poping outward
and out comes the door handle

remove large C clip and remove small plastic clip
and out comes the door lock

 

[crushers]

remove the lower retaining bolt holding the track closest to the hinge
remove the 3 screws hidden under the weather stripping holding the flip out window frame in place
remove the flip out window frame by lifting up and back.

remove the window glass by tilting and sliding it toward the hinge of the door and lift up on an angle.

remove the lower retaining bolt for bottom outter door track and remove the track

remove the 3 screws holding the latch

remove the door lock plunger and decrative insert by lifting and screwing off. the decrative insert has 2 clips on either side that must be pushed in ... these can be a bitch.

remove weather stripping from door and 2 anti rattle plugs

done, door is stripped ready for painting.