Builds Troopie build

[SimonInAustralia]

if you have the spare mounted on the door the large size will not work due to the reinforcing bracket inside the door.
i could use 1/4" aluminum instead of 3/8ths which will reduce the cost of materials somewhat and make shipping a bit cheaper.
the catches makes for rattle free.

if i can get orders for 5 then the cost will be a bit cheaper, if order for 10 can be arranged then cheaper again.

i didn't plan on making them for resale but i could be convinced to head down that road.

cheers

I would be up for a pair for sure.

If the spare is door mounted at the moment, but plan to put it on the bumper eventually, can the door reinforcement be easily removed? Is the reinforcement bolted in or welded?

Thanks!

 

[SimonInAustralia]

Wayne, with the left hand side compartments, with the doors that drop down onto the bed, could you please tell me what the distance is from the top edge of the wheel well to the lower edge of the compartment cutout/door?

Thanks.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

I would be definitely in for one, maybe two (one for each door)

No problem with the spare for me, it is on the Kayamr

 

[cosmo]

where did you get the rubber for the body lift. Looks like what we used for wing to fuslage mounting. Thanks

 

[crushers]

the off road light protector for the roof rack, remember the rack is upside down in the pics...
this allows for 4 x 7" lights and 1 x 4" in the center or a remote spot light.

 

[crushers]

the high lift mounts for the roof rack...
the edges were routered to prevent any rattling of the jack.

 

[crushers]

the cable recievers for the limb protectors.
a couple shots of the rack ...

 

[crushers]

another shot of the simple jack mount.
the tent mount is removeable and mounted to the center of the bridging C cannels thus the tapped holes could fill with water, mud, dirt, seeds etc so i decided to counter sink the spare plug bolts. this way when the owner wants to install the tent supports he just removes these and install the proper lengthed units. no need to worry about the holes being plugged and thus stripping out the aluminum.

 

[crushers]

moving the body out of the shop for the reassembly of the frame and drivetrain.
the owners Troopy "low rider".

 

[crushers]

clean the shop
move the frame inside
cover the body with a tarp temporarily

 

[crushers]

load the aluminum work onto the trailer to be dropped off at the PC.

i am excited to be back onto reassembly. there is still some fabrication to be done but a change is as good as a holiday, right?

 

[crushers]

i am already missing who wants what, if you are interested in the rear boxes can you email me directly at waynesmith2501@hughes.net ?

thanks for the interest show'n.
cheers M8s

 

[lowenbrau]

I'd be sending that body to the paint shop while it is so bare. Probably spray some SEM sauce on the bottom and wheelwells at the same time.

 

[crushers]

Bruce,
I agree completely but the body work is not part of the ... requirements, at my end. it would be so easy to work on and they could get into every nook and cranny. i am removing the AC as well so even the foot firewall sections will be exposed on both sides.

oh well.
thanks for visiting.

 

[crushers]

Simon,
can you send me an email to waynesmith2501@hughes.net with this info?
i will try and get you that measurement when they come back from the PC.
cheers

Wayne, with the left hand side compartments, with the doors that drop down onto the bed, could you please tell me what the distance is from the top edge of the wheel well to the lower edge of the compartment cutout/door?

Thanks.

 

[User Name]

Absolutely awesome build!! Thanks heaps for taking the time to post all of this crushers, gave me a couple ideas for my own troopy too!

 

[chappysfj40]

wow awesome

 

[crushers]

first up on reassembly would be checking the parts.
kit complete, yep
kit correct? nope

 

[crushers]

one shackle needed swapping.

 

[crushers]

sand blasting the aluminum parts for white PC