Wayne do you ever just drive your Cruisers to the grocery store for milk and bread?
.......1978HJ45
.......1978HJ45
Builds Troopie build
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He is not modeling.....he is simply demonstrating the strength of the 70 Series hood.
.......1978HJ45
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
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- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
Less as they not jungle trucks too heavy - rego is an issue a 1KZ powered LJ77 is About $1400rm a year and a 4.2 diesel powered HZJ is $3600rm+ (and used to be $14,000rm+ - yes thats almost $5,000USD) a year for registration so they not that popular unless you very rich.
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2005
- Threads
- 53
- Messages
- 1,205
- Location
- Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
- Website
- www.geckoadventure.net
Wayne do you ever just drive your Cruisers to the grocery store for milk and bread?
.......1978HJ45
he was going for milk and bread in the next valley over
awesome!
you just dont find work of this calibre out here..
not alot of 70 series troopies out this way either..
so i cant wait to see more of this!!
you just dont find work of this calibre out here..
not alot of 70 series troopies out this way either..
so i cant wait to see more of this!!
Breath-taking build crushers
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #209
so back to the PTO build, we needed to move the engagement point to the back bumper.
the original is just a short throw, lift the knob and move ahead to engage and reverse to disengage.
this is the spot the knob occupied, the spring and peg is inside the unit and the spigot through the top to the knob. simple, effective and reliable.
i wanted to reuse the idea but at the back so an extension needed to be created.
1/2" rod was used with a new machined piece copying the original at one end and a 9/16th" threaded rod spigot at the other end to go through the original shifter.
the original is just a short throw, lift the knob and move ahead to engage and reverse to disengage.
this is the spot the knob occupied, the spring and peg is inside the unit and the spigot through the top to the knob. simple, effective and reliable.
i wanted to reuse the idea but at the back so an extension needed to be created.
1/2" rod was used with a new machined piece copying the original at one end and a 9/16th" threaded rod spigot at the other end to go through the original shifter.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #213
the customer wanted to be able to install a bug screen or leave catch so nutzerts were installed in the grill section. the original fiberglass grill was replaced with an older style steel grill.
nutzerts work very well when an item is being installed and removed periodicly on a thin metal or fiberglass piece.
nutzerts work very well when an item is being installed and removed periodicly on a thin metal or fiberglass piece.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #214
remember the girl with the nice "butt-stuck-out-there" at the begining of this update?
get the idea?
these are 35" boots mounted on 10" rims. the gap between the tires are 2 1/4" which is what will be needed when he goes to 37" boots.
the clearence between the door and the support is 3/4", the tube is 1 3/4" and the tire is 12" wide, although it looks bulky off the back it is as tight as reasonably possible. once he installed his skinny 37" tires then it will look much more ballanced.
the support on the bottom of the tire coupled with the longer guide pin on the tire lock down makes installing these buggers a breeze.
the mount is reversable so he can go from 32" up to 39" by just adjusting the bottom support and flipping the mount upside or right side up.
works like a dream...
get the idea?
these are 35" boots mounted on 10" rims. the gap between the tires are 2 1/4" which is what will be needed when he goes to 37" boots.
the clearence between the door and the support is 3/4", the tube is 1 3/4" and the tire is 12" wide, although it looks bulky off the back it is as tight as reasonably possible. once he installed his skinny 37" tires then it will look much more ballanced.
the support on the bottom of the tire coupled with the longer guide pin on the tire lock down makes installing these buggers a breeze.
the mount is reversable so he can go from 32" up to 39" by just adjusting the bottom support and flipping the mount upside or right side up.
works like a dream...
WHAT?? Where is the engine? I must have missed the thread on its removal....
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #217
the removal of the engine.
the 1HZ is a very simple engine, you can run it on one fuel shut off wire.
remove grill
remove hood
remove rad cross support
remove upper grill support
remove hood latch cable
drain all fluids, so much easier if you do this BEFORE your remove the combo from the truck. most of us get too excited to see the engine on the stand that we forget this step. once it is on the stand it is a bugger to drain the oils.
the coolant came out Toyota red and very clean, it was a well looked after engine cooling system.
the oil was black but not thick, good sign.
the tranny/t/case/front and rear diffs fluid was clear 80/90. this truck did not see much, if any, water or mud. another good sign.
the biggest pain is having to drain the AC oil, most companies will not come and remove the oil and those that do charge a lot for the convience.
once all the fluids are drained then it is on to the mechanical and electrical.
remove batteries
remove air box
remove vacumm line
remove heater lines and hoses
remove radiator, fan and shroud
first, remove any and all electrical connections.
starter wires
sending units
glow plug connections
3 ground wires
fuel shut off
then remove floor shifter cover
remove both shifters and the speedo cable
remove both driveshafts
support rear t/case
remove engine mount bolts
remove tranny cross member
place receptical under the PS connections
remove PS pressure line and return line from engine
SLOWLY turn steering wheel to purge the PS fluid that will drip for days otherwise
put spray paint can lid over shifter tower to keep dirt and debris from entering the tranny during removal
hook up engine support chain to engine making sure it is almost balanced with a slight tilt to the rear.
do one more look around the engine and tranny
go for coffee
after coffee do one more look around the engine and tranny
start lifting.
the 1HZ is a very simple engine, you can run it on one fuel shut off wire.
remove grill
remove hood
remove rad cross support
remove upper grill support
remove hood latch cable
drain all fluids, so much easier if you do this BEFORE your remove the combo from the truck. most of us get too excited to see the engine on the stand that we forget this step. once it is on the stand it is a bugger to drain the oils.
the coolant came out Toyota red and very clean, it was a well looked after engine cooling system.
the oil was black but not thick, good sign.
the tranny/t/case/front and rear diffs fluid was clear 80/90. this truck did not see much, if any, water or mud. another good sign.
the biggest pain is having to drain the AC oil, most companies will not come and remove the oil and those that do charge a lot for the convience.
once all the fluids are drained then it is on to the mechanical and electrical.
remove batteries
remove air box
remove vacumm line
remove heater lines and hoses
remove radiator, fan and shroud
first, remove any and all electrical connections.
starter wires
sending units
glow plug connections
3 ground wires
fuel shut off
then remove floor shifter cover
remove both shifters and the speedo cable
remove both driveshafts
support rear t/case
remove engine mount bolts
remove tranny cross member
place receptical under the PS connections
remove PS pressure line and return line from engine
SLOWLY turn steering wheel to purge the PS fluid that will drip for days otherwise
put spray paint can lid over shifter tower to keep dirt and debris from entering the tranny during removal
hook up engine support chain to engine making sure it is almost balanced with a slight tilt to the rear.
do one more look around the engine and tranny
go for coffee
after coffee do one more look around the engine and tranny
start lifting.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #218
and out it comes.
i had these carts build decades ago to store diff and heavy parts on and they make a wicked engine support that can be ratched tight and rolled around. easier than an engine crane. easier to work with, easier to get the engine and tranny combo out of the way, easier to install a clutch and tranny, easier to rebuild a t/case IF the units are coming out of the truck anyway.
the engine sitting in the shipping crate. this crate housed the replacement engine. the crate is overkill but handy and safe for shipping.
i had these carts build decades ago to store diff and heavy parts on and they make a wicked engine support that can be ratched tight and rolled around. easier than an engine crane. easier to work with, easier to get the engine and tranny combo out of the way, easier to install a clutch and tranny, easier to rebuild a t/case IF the units are coming out of the truck anyway.
the engine sitting in the shipping crate. this crate housed the replacement engine. the crate is overkill but handy and safe for shipping.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #219
before removing the replacement engine we fired it up and did a compression test, made sure it ran smooth and quiet. the engine fired right up once we installed the fuel filter and primer pump. prime up fresh fuel, crack the injectors, glowed the engine and crank it over. it fired right away, blew black smoke for about 20 secs, smoothed right out and then no smoke, no weird sounds, purred like a kitten and even under full throttle it had no smoke coming out.
did a compression test and the numbers are in the shop but extremely good compression.
empty engine bay.
did a compression test and the numbers are in the shop but extremely good compression.
empty engine bay.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #220
a while back i saw an ad for an intercooler that bolted onto the engine using the stock location for the cross over. i have tried to get more info about this unit but to no avail
so
time to check and see if i can do the same idea over here in NA.
we have ample hood clearence with the 1.5" body lift.
we have the ability to make the adapter end
we have access to multipul intercooler designs
why not?
so, off with the cross over to do some measurements.
so
time to check and see if i can do the same idea over here in NA.
we have ample hood clearence with the 1.5" body lift.
we have the ability to make the adapter end
we have access to multipul intercooler designs
why not?
so, off with the cross over to do some measurements.
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